Grrrrh...



No audio advice for you then... and yeah, I play hide and seek revolving my life around this place

 

apparently not, at least according to some

 

I apologize for my last two posts. It had been a long day at work, and I was on a short rope, nothing to do with this thread. I guess I AM whiny and bi-polar. I definitely have my moments, to say the least.

 

Make it four, we just did 2 hour, 9 mile daily walk. I get considerably more return on my Westone earphones than I ever would modding audio in corvette-this is what I call money well spent. If you and others finally face the extent of your audio failure, this may be worth a serious consideration, you drop three or four hundred bucks and get instant gratification, in as good panned mono as it can get, beats those silly car attempts

 

You do not have the right crossover to pull it off. You should look for something like Coustic XM7, PPI DCX630 or Alpine PRA H400 to get this done. Your JBL is limited in filter frequency range. First of all, run RTA to identify any trouble spots, cancellations are easy to notice. Most of all, I would take out that eq out of your system, it is beyond worthless. Replace it with a parametric eq (if you need it) or build your own comb filter.

 

I'm glad you posted this. It sounds very spiffy. Lots of big looking words and esoteric concepts. But end of the day, you are the idiot I expected.

Let's walk though it, shall we?


>replacing 10 inch woofers [..]due to the higher sensitivity of larger drivers and their ability to produce equivalent output and play lower with less power (until you reach their linear excursion limits).

I thought we were talking sound quality? There is a reason subwoofers make terrible tweeters. Screw the size of the speaker. The only thing that matters is what kind of response does the speaker provide when given a clean flat signal.

>If you have not enough output, you can easily increase it by employing eithe first or second order high pass filters

What kind of filter can you use to increase output (which I'm interpreting as ampltude)? Filters by definition remove signal.

A high pass filter will simply remove lower frequencies (bass). So do tell, what frequencies are you removing to increase sound "output"?

First order second filter is a 6db/octave filter and a second order filter is a 12db/octave filter. What does this have to do with anything?
Strange that you are define the poles of the filter (1st/2nd order) but not the frequency you wish to remove...


>premature rolloff at the upper end is actually a good thing, makes for more pleasant listening experience

What are you talking about? You want the sound faithful to the recorded signal. That means you want to remove all rolloff when it reaches the ear. Additionally, high frequency signals will not roll off in a vehicle environment. They will collide therefore either amplifying will cancelling. Your ears will roll off as you reach the height of your listening capability.

>pleasant listening experience

I think you crucified plenty of people for similar comments. Additonally, I fully disagree with you as even my previous post mentioned I prefer harsh highs.

>the results would be worse than those paper cone drivers deliver.

Don't see how that's even remotely possible.

>If you need to gain better end extension, you could again build some first or second order hi pass filters, tap into the current speakers and perhaps try to mount some tiny supertweets in the side vents, all you would need would be about 12k up freqs playing to extend the upper end.

This is my favorite comment of yours.

So what you are saying.... wait... wait... wait... heheh... no,no... wait... is replace the bose speaker? hahahahahah!

Anyone trying to do this needs to do not only a highpass but a low pass filter. You also want to be careful about the crossover frequency, you could very well be adding a very ugly little bump in your freqency response... which will make your stereo sound worse than when you started.

You also need to be aware you are lowering the impedance load applied to the bose amplifier, although improbable... try not to burn it up.

Here's some advise: If you are going to do this, please just buy a component speaker set. (My recommendation several posts ago) It should come with a nice passive filter which will guarantee your new component set will generate a flat response.


>The center channel [..] create illusion of music playing [out of a fairy's a$$].

So that's what that there lil noise box thing does!

>There is no stereo effect to speak of in any car unless it has a center seating position.

Really? My car is 3 dimentional how about yours? Sound travels in every direction. Not just directly forward. If your head is located between the speakers then you will hear the left one more plainly with your left ear. Reason being, your head is in the way.

To create the "hi-fi stereo" sound that you would get in a home stereo, what you really want to do is delay the time coming from the closest speaker by just enough that the sound from the farther speaker can close the distance. Plenty of devices on the market can do this, although as an owner of one... I wouldn't bother.

>When drivers are pointed at each other, you end up with a textbook definition of hard panned mono

Strange my textbook says hard panned mono is how the track is recorded, not how it's played back. Nuances aside, sound will not cancel the way you are asserting... same reason as above.

>Center channel helps to reduce this difference, you lose width but you gain more symmetry.

Again you can have a well balanced enjoyable audio experience without a sound stage. Please split the two concepts. No one on this thread cares about sound placement or expansive sound stage. I have one, and I don't even care about it.

>This information is readily available and easy to verify through practical experiments, including using earphones and simulated car listening environment setting.

Do not use headphones or a 'simulated car' (Whatever that is).
I have a hell of a time with the center speaker on my headphones.
And I can't fit my 10" bose speaker either... probably b/c I only own ear buds.
Distance from speakers and soundwave reflections change this puzzle so much that nothing is an analog to a car... other than the car you are driving.

>Alternatively, you can hide your head in the sand and follow the rest of the sheep.

The sheep are right some of the time. Much like now.

 

If you look in the mirror, you will find that idiot in a hurry, including your inability to use quotations.

Thanks for calling me an idiot though...

Let me repeat for ******** like you: FREQUENCY RESPONSE AND DIAMETER OF A DRIVER ARE INDEPENDENT.

Learn what concept of BEAMING means, beats making a tool of yourself. Yes, you are one dumb sheep.

And here is some more ADVICE for you: learn the difference between ADVICE and ADVISE if you want to advise anyone.

 

Uh....nice comeback Peter....

 

Hey, apparently not too many people understand the basic principles. Time for them to venture out to the world of pro audio and educate those people they are using wrong speakers for the frequencies they play, maybe they can put Bose out of home audio business at the same time as well?

 

Peter doesn't seem to grasp the concepts of logic and somewhat ironically is also struggling with a reading a comprehension problem.

If there is anyone else struggling with understanding the depth of those issues, I can help point you in the right areas of study, so that you do not make the same mistakes as him.

- Fundamental vocabulary and comprehension. Understanding fully what words like different, exactly, same, and change mean. I suggest starting with this because if you don't understand that different and exactly the same describe two distinct conditions, then we have a real problem.

- Fundamentals of logic. Venn diagrams would be a great sub topic to focus on and blends well with later concepts.

- Fallacies. This final area blends well without our scope of discussion and will allow you to have a better understanding of common forum troll arguments and their flaws.

It's a great habit to learn from your mistakes. Even better to learn from the mistakes of those around you.

 

Happy spending

A FOOL AND HIS MONEY ARE SOON PARTED

 

Your assumption that everyone is an idiot, but you....Is entertaining....i'll keep reading. I haven't mentioned anything about audio. I genuinely believe you could be mentally ill, but you definitely are a rude human....and it's amusing :-)

 

Here is my thread on the subject:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...nvertible.html

Take it for what it's worth but I would not do it a second time. A complete (professional) system makeover would be better.

 

Nice write up. IMO the Bose amp is the weakest link in the system. Bypass that with a good aftermarket one will make those Kicker speakers sound much better. Either way it would be a fail as far as peter is concerned since you used the OEM speaker positions. He thinks we should all tear up the interior trying to find a better position for speakers to create perfect "staging". I don't think anyone here is looking for perfect.

 

I'm very confused....why did this forum that originally started as a simple question turn into a name calling pissing contest? I thought he was looking to upgrade his OEM speakers, not gut his car and invest thousands of dollars in a customized system. Boys, boys, boys...please calm down and put your dick back in your pants.

Kat

 

 

...........can you recommend a better amp that will mount in the same oem location?

Thx for your time..............

 

The Arc Audio KS series. I don't know the exact dimensions but they are small and should fit down there. Do a search in the audio forum for Arc Audio.

 

I posted a reply to your thread if wouldn't mind having a look

 

I've seen hijacked threads before, but this one marks a new high (or low).

I started following this thread until it descended into "all amps sound the same." Or not. Audio forums lock these silly arguments.