upgrading interior speakers
In any event it's just what I thought. You have nothing. You need a condition to post pictures of your work? I would think you would want to show off what you've been preaching about. I have no problem showing my work with no condition. Here is the harness I made to connect to the factory HU and supply low level output to the amps.

Here are the amps. One for the front speakers and one for the sub.
300 watts each. Rear speakers are factory and still powered by HU.

Here is the door speakers. Replacing the factory junk. This was taken before the dynamat install. I don't have a picture of that.

Here is my sub. 12" Rockford Fosgate powered by 300 watt Kenwood monoblock amp.

Again, let me know if you need help posting pictures of what you have. I would be happy to help you if you can't figure out how to do it.
), I must say, this thread is hilarious 
ALL of you make valid points of one factor or another, but you HAVE to find a middle ground. MOST people will not tear apart a car to find optimal placement for sound stage, spatial time perfection, etc. they just want better sound from what the factory provisions allow, so they replace what they can with what they have to work with.
I have put stereos in everything from golf carts and Geo Metros to multimillion $ motor coaches, and everything in between, including Porsche, Ferrari, Lamborghini, ect... so, I can say this: aftermarket audio components-HU, speakers, amps, etc- are almost ALWAYS better than OEM. they have a higher dynamic range when tested on the standard 1 watt/1 meter oscillation sweep, typically are made of better materials, are more thermally efficient, and WAY better for set-up processes-time correction, crossover adjustment, slope roll-off, Q factor, and so on. this means that in 99% of cases, they WILL sound better than factory parts, including "premium" systems like Bose, who albeit are much better than they used to be, are IMPO the worst audio manufacturer on the planet, auto and home (yes, I have extensive experience here too). there is a saying in the audio realm; no highs? no lows? MUST be Bose!
also, please allow me to correct a few misconceptions...
peter, you keep calling the factory speakers coaxes. the factory 3 1/2 Bose speakers are NOT coaxial. they are just a single axis mid driver. coaxes are two speakers (usually a driver and separate tweeter) mounted on the same axis pole. hence the name, coaxial. the factory system does NOT have a single tweeter in it anywhere. which is why it rolls off so sharply at +/- 11khz. not because of their placement in the vehicle doors.
also, peter, I have used an RTA, and on just doing HU and speaker replacement, yes you can shift the sound stage up and forward, as well as create a more "flat" sound field for the acoustics of the inside of your car, by doing this. if you want proof, I do not still have any of mine saved, BUT Crutchfield just did this test, with ALL the same gear you say you are a professional with, just replacing factory equipment and printed it on their website and in their magazine circulation. please, feel free to read up on this and, if you feel you must, continue to call them, and me, idiots.
), I must say, this thread is hilarious 
ALL of you make valid points of one factor or another, but you HAVE to find a middle ground. MOST people will not tear apart a car to find optimal placement for sound stage, spatial time perfection, etc. they just want better sound from what the factory provisions allow, so they replace what they can with what they have to work with.
I have put stereos in everything from golf carts and Geo Metros to multimillion $ motor coaches, and everything in between, including Porsche, Ferrari, Lamborghini, ect... so, I can say this: aftermarket audio components-HU, speakers, amps, etc- are almost ALWAYS better than OEM. they have a higher dynamic range when tested on the standard 1 watt/1 meter oscillation sweep, typically are made of better materials, are more thermally efficient, and WAY better for set-up processes-time correction, crossover adjustment, slope roll-off, Q factor, and so on. this means that in 99% of cases, they WILL sound better than factory parts, including "premium" systems like Bose, who albeit are much better than they used to be, are IMPO the worst audio manufacturer on the planet, auto and home (yes, I have extensive experience here too). there is a saying in the audio realm; no highs? no lows? MUST be Bose!
also, please allow me to correct a few misconceptions...
peter, you keep calling the factory speakers coaxes. the factory 3 1/2 Bose speakers are NOT coaxial. they are just a single axis mid driver. coaxes are two speakers (usually a driver and separate tweeter) mounted on the same axis pole. hence the name, coaxial. the factory system does NOT have a single tweeter in it anywhere. which is why it rolls off so sharply at +/- 11khz. not because of their placement in the vehicle doors.
also, peter, I have used an RTA, and on just doing HU and speaker replacement, yes you can shift the sound stage up and forward, as well as create a more "flat" sound field for the acoustics of the inside of your car, by doing this. if you want proof, I do not still have any of mine saved, BUT Crutchfield just did this test, with ALL the same gear you say you are a professional with, just replacing factory equipment and printed it on their website and in their magazine circulation. please, feel free to read up on this and, if you feel you must, continue to call them, and me, idiots.

And please, stop sounding like a sales brochure, you'd starve counting on making a sale with me...
Last edited by petermj; Apr 3, 2012 at 03:49 AM.
In any event it's just what I thought. You have nothing. You need a condition to post pictures of your work? I would think you would want to show off what you've been preaching about. I have no problem showing my work with no condition. Here is the harness I made to connect to the factory HU and supply low level output to the amps.

Here are the amps. One for the front speakers and one for the sub.
300 watts each. Rear speakers are factory and still powered by HU.

Here is the door speakers. Replacing the factory junk. This was taken before the dynamat install. I don't have a picture of that.

Here is my sub. 12" Rockford Fosgate powered by 300 watt Kenwood monoblock amp.

Again, let me know if you need help posting pictures of what you have. I would be happy to help you if you can't figure out how to do it.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/audi...post1579048042
There is only one phony thing around here: audio advice given by you and others,. you should be held liable for misleading people.
You have no clue what stereo is why it is not even possible in a car audio system, especially when speakers are mounted in the doors firing at each other. And you advise others to disconnect the center channel to IMPROVE STEREO SEPARATION? I honestly hope nobody follows your advice here or anywhere else.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/audi...post1579048042
There is only one phony thing around here: audio advice given by you and others,. you should be held liable for misleading people.
I
You have no clue what stereo is why it is not even possible in a car audio system, especially when speakers are mounted in the doors firing at each other. And you advise others to disconnect the center channel to IMPROVE STEREO SEPARATION? I honestly hope nobody follows your advice here or anywhere else.
However I realize providing facts pertinent to the actual post doesn't present any unrelated insults or fallacies, and you may find this scary and confusing. Sorry in advance.
Once again, answer the questions
And how is that stereo separation working out for you?
However I realize providing facts pertinent to the actual post doesn't present any unrelated insults or fallacies, and you may find this scary and confusing. Sorry in advance.

How is this possible to give advice about something one does not understand? LOL
Very strange to me, I would love to know what your background and experience is Peter so that I can determine if you are all BS or as smart as you say you are, (not going to take your word for that). I understand that you have no obligation to prove anything to me or this forum but just based on the fact that you keep saying everyone is wrong and knows nothing I would think you would want to, unless of course you are all BS.
PS, I asked the same thing last time you insisted that you were the smartest in the discussion and no else had any valid inputs, a thread in the Audio Section a couple months ago. You refused to validate your expertise then also.
Paul
Very strange to me, I would love to know what your background and experience is Peter so that I can determine if you are all BS or as smart as you say you are, (not going to take your word for that). I understand that you have no obligation to prove anything to me or this forum but just based on the fact that you keep saying everyone is wrong and knows nothing I would think you would want to, unless of course you are all BS.
PS, I asked the same thing last time you insisted that you were the smartest in the discussion and no else had any valid inputs, a thread in the Audio Section a couple months ago. You refused to validate your expertise then also.
Paul




















