Sorry for repeat question, but I can't seem to find the harmonic balancer replacement procedure after an hour of searching...Can someone shoot me a link to the procedure for a manual transmission?

 

Procedure attached.

 

I have been compiling info in anticipation of doing mine someday.
See if any of this helps you:

BALANCER SWAP:
Need: balancer, seal (12585673, 296-02, nat/timken 100470 $11), PS fluid,
flexplate lock tool, balancer installer (16mm stud $15 eBay), LOANER: Advance Auto balancer kit (has Chrysler puller and installer with bearing and crank point protector)
new crank bolt, new tensioners, new belts, LOANER: 250LB torque wrench. Google "A&A supercharger instructions" for pics.

disconnect battery, remove sway bar, remove tie rods (jack under for pressure if shafts turn), remove starter (loosen cat or manifold to get to drop out, install flexplate lock
maybe lower cradle about 1/2" to help get lines loose (4 bolts), but may not need to if only pushing rack over partially, scribe balancer location

remove abs bracket bolts ( and other two if needed...dont lose and notice ther are "flats" on bolts for reassembly) and push out of way to get to 2 18mm lines, zip tie baggies to hold fluid,
CAREFUL unplugging rack connector, remove bolt on steering gear and remove from rack (11mm?), pry rack from mounts (notice washer sequence), roll rack out to passenger side enough to get to balancer
maybe slightly spread frame brackets with bolts and washers for easier reassembly (CAREFUL - ALUMINUM),
heat or torch to break RTV from crank bolt. Loosen with long cheater bar, Chrysler puller protecting end of crank, replace seal
boil crank 20 min and quickly put on with threaded installer, tighten with old bolt 240 LB then new bolt. Grease bolts and washers on install

sequence rack washers with grease on reinstall into frame brackets, use pin punch to line it all up, CAREFUL with rack plug-tiny pins

BOLT TIGHTENING: tighten to 240LB with old bolt, threadlocker (272 Locktite?)on new bolt and tighten to 37Ft LB, mark bolt 12 oclock to 6 ocllock with line.
tighten bolt second time to get 140 degree angle, RESEARCH IT.

someones writeup:
Having owned my 2005 C6 (with 54,500 miles) since last November I have been watching the HB with a slight wobble. No chirping of the belts (or anything else), but I decided to replace it before it got worse. Tackled it Sunday for a few hours and finished it Monday afternoon. Using a friends lift made it much easier too.

Special tools
Flywheel locking tool (for A4 auto)
Chrysler HB puller from AutoZone
LS2 HB install tool

Parts
Powerbond HB (my choice)
ARP HB Bolt
Front crank seal
Catayltic converter flange seal
Exhaust pipe donut seal
New Accessory drive & AC belts

First remove the passenger side catalytic converter & remove starter, install flywheel locking tool (you will need this to torque the HB bolt).

Pull the wheels, disconnect intermediate steering shaft, disconnect fluid lines to steering gear, remove accessory & AC drive belts, disconnect tie rods from steering knuckles, remove bolts to ABS module and push module up, remove driver's side brake line bracket and move aside, remove bolts from plastic brackets on front transmission lines (mine does not have a tranny cooler), remove front engine cradle nuts and loosen rear nuts, pry front of engine cradle down about 1" and insert a shim to keep it in place, remove 2 steering rack bolts, work the steering rack out the driver's side gently pushing brake lines out of the way (it is very close but will come out), remove HB with Chrysler puller (it is very heavy duty and low profile), remove front crankshaft seal & tap new seal in place, mount new HB and pull in place with the installation tool, lubricate & install new ARP bolt & torque to 230 lb. ft.

Note: I do not recommend using the original bolt to pull the new HB in place as there are not enough threads to keep from damaging the crankshaft threads.

Reverse the process and reinstall everything and you are good to go.

At first I was very intimidated and did not want to do it. Overall it is pretty easy and well worth the time to save $1,000 at the GM dealer. Total time for the job was about 5 hours.

 

It is an easy job if you over look the six hours of constant profanity.

 

Thanks guys...if I have a manual trans, can I skip the flywheel locker?

 

I have an A6 and didn't need it.

 

If you torque the HB bolt to the correct spec, a manual will need a flywheel lock. You'll turn the entire drive train in any gear and with the em brake on.

The last manual I did, I accessed the flywheel from the left side by removing the plastic inspection cover (by the oil filter. I fashioned a home made flywheel lock which saved all the time spent removing the starter, etc.

 

How did you keep the crank from turning while torque crank bolt? I'm stuck on my attempt to remove rack with rigid brake line for front left wheel.
Thanks much for any tips.
Ed

 

A tool like this

bolts up in place of starter

 

As Blindspot says, best to lock the flywheel. GM damper bolt is one time use only. Toss it and get a new one. If you use a ARP bolt (I recommend it, high quality part), use the supplied grease on the underside of the bolt flange and mating washer face only. This will ensure proper torque readings. Put a thin film of red high temp silicone on the washer face that goes on the damper side. If you have a keyed damper, carefully fill, not jam red silicone in the keyway to avoid oil leaks. I put a drop, one drop of red loctite on threads 3-4 and torqued to 235 ft lbs. Done. Be careful torquing the bolt if you are on jack stands. Sketchy pulling 235 on a light naked car with a 3 foot torque wrench IMO.

 

Flywheel lock? Any chance of a picture or description? What did you attach it to? I've been thinking of trying that but not sure what is strong enough in there. Thanks

 

You might take the time to read answers to your previous questions in this thread that some of us took the time to reply to.

See #9 above. I even include a pic in case you don't feel like reading.

 

I was attempting to ask a follow up on #7 as he said he fashioned his own lock avoiding removing the starter. Sorry if I did that wrong on my first reply on this forum but I do thank you for your helpful and courteous reply. In fact I have spent many hours reading and learning on this forum this past week and have been impressed with the helpful attitude of most respondents.

 

ummmm No pic shown Cheech UNTIL you go to the amazon site.. chill a bit..

 

I saw this tip only one time in a lot of hours of getting up to speed to take on the balancer job.
Simply wrap the old serpentine carefully around crank pulley keeping it double, uncut, feed the loose end down through the cross member and put a big screw driver or bar through it to secure it from being drawn up on the pulley. My first try it took two swings of the ratchet on the crank bolt to snug the belt and two good pulls on 4' cheater and the bolt was loose. Once the slack was out there was no discernible movement on the HB. Took all of 5 minutes from start to bolt on the bench. Saved a trip to town and the cost of GM locking tool not to mention the R&R of the starter and possibly some exhaust. I will simply reverse the wrap when it's time to torque the bolt to spec. Worked so well I'm surprised I only saw this mentioned one time in a lot of reading.
I also found that the few minutes to remove the fan and shroud gave me a lot more room to R&R and pin the pulley.
YMMV
Any thoughts on the life span of the idlers and tension pulleys?
Thanks for all the great info.

 

Anybody try helping re-install the HB by cooling the crank snout way down by application of dry ice while heating the HB? I have easy source of it and really do not want to have trouble or risk it getting tight while trying to put it on. If it work as well as some other applications, it may just push on by hand.
Thoughts?

 

This is the procedure I used last year on my 2005.
HB Installatin

And this is the tool I used to lock the flywheel.
Flywheel lock tool

Roy

 

To replace mine I went through this procedure;

1: Look online for guides and how to do it.
2: Jacked the car up.
3: Looked at everything from under the car.
4: Called and made an appointment with my mechanic.
5: Lowered the car back down and drove it to his shop.

 

That's the way I'll do it except I will go straight to the last part of step 5!

 

I've never heard of a positive experience doing a HB, always drama& smashed fingers & skinned knuckles. Sounded like a real PITA.

I commend anyone who does this job, themselves.
But IMO this is one job well worth whatever a qualified wrench charges, too.