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The clicking sounds you hear coming from the fuses/relays is a good thing. It means when you try to start the car they are still getting current. I had this same issue on my 05 back in August and checked everything you have and are about to. I had the same issue with "no fobs detected" even with brand new batteries. I did the complete half hour reprogram and got it to work one time, but then the problem was back the next time I tried to start the car that very same day. Based on everything that you are experiencing I'm willing to bet if you replace the RCDLR that all the issues will go away. It stands for Remote Control Door Lock Receiver and is the unit the key fobs send their signal to. Getting it done at a shop will cost anywhere from $250-$500 but you can't avoid this because they have to completely reset some systems in the car once the new receiver is installed.
Interesting because I read a bulletin on this.. I just want to get this car started at this stage so I can take it to the dealer, to get it done.. Thanks for the info..
If you want to avoid getting it towed, be prepared to spend some time trying to start the car over and over and over. Another trick to potentially help it get started is to disconnect the battery for 15 minutes to reset some things, then reconnect it and hope it turns on, because the alarm is quite annoying after hearing it for 2 hours. Other than that, just keep trying to start it and when you hopefully do get it started, drive it to the dealer immediately. Make sure you have a key fob in the slot in the glovebox as well as the other one present somewhere in the car this way you double your chances of at least one of them being detected. Good luck
So, I put the trickle on the new battery, stepped away for 2 hours, and tested the doors when I came back. They opened on there own, no fobs. I grabbed the fobs but they are still not detecting however, this is a tad step forward because my doors were DEAD before, The interior door lights lit up as well.. Question, I have a duralast gold, brand new and charged, can the battery itself have anything to do with it? I changed it with my 1 month old battery last night just to be on the safe side but popped it on the trickle this morning and now the doors opened....
It has EVERYTHING to do with it. I told you yesterday (post #16) it sounds to me like you have a dead or weak battery. Put a real charger on it for a good 6 hours, not a trickle charger. Most likely your problem will go away.
It has EVERYTHING to do with it. I told you yesterday (post #16) it sounds to me like you have a dead or weak battery. Put a real charger on it for a good 6 hours, not a trickle charger. Most likely your problem will go away.
It's a brand new battery, I bought it last night. So your saying this battery and the prior battery is bad? The prior was only a month old, they tested it and it said 100% charge. They gave me a new one just for the heck of it... I have a 2a, 10a and 50a charger, I have it set at 2, are you saying I should set it higher? Also, it's a duralast gold battery, is this garbage?
Last edited by Jason W Dreher; Jan 8, 2017 at 06:04 PM.
It's a brand new battery, I bought it last night. So your saying this battery and the prior battery is bad? The prior was only a month old, they tested it and it said 100% charge. They gave me a new one just for the heck of it... I have a 2a, 10a and 50a charger, I have it set at 2, are you saying I should set it higher? Also, it's a duralast gold battery, is this garbage?
I'm just going by what you're saying. At the shop you got it started after charging it for a while and today you got the doors to open after charging it for a while. To me that says something. No, Duralast is not garbage but you never know how long a battery sits at a store discharging before you buy it. Its always a good idea to charge a new battery before installing it.
The battery is usually the culprit and should be the first thing checked. However, you already have, plus you've had them on chargers and the odds of two new batteries being bad is extremely low. Not saying it can't happen, just that it's very unlikely. It wouldn't hurt to set the charger at a higher setting then try again. If it still doesn't work, I'd bet even more that it's the RCDLR giving you issues.
The battery is usually the culprit and should be the first thing checked. However, you already have, plus you've had them on chargers and the odds of two new batteries being bad is extremely low. Not saying it can't happen, just that it's very unlikely. It wouldn't hurt to set the charger at a higher setting then try again. If it still doesn't work, I'd bet even more that it's the RCDLR giving you issues.
I now hear a humming/buzz sound coming from the radio, I don't know what this means. I bet your right about the rcdlr.. I pray I can get this started, so I can get it to the dealer.
The only commonality I can see from this internet troubleshooting is that every time you mess with the battery the symptoms change. That would have me shaking down the battery leads on both ends of each of them looking for a bad connection.
The only commonality I can see from this internet troubleshooting is that every time you mess with the battery the symptoms change. That would have me shaking down the battery leads on both ends of each of them looking for a bad connection.
I checked them up and down. They look good, I did bring up the negative a bit on the terminal to move it around a tad..
The clicking sounds you hear coming from the fuses/relays is a good thing. It means when you try to start the car they are still getting current. I had this same issue on my 05 back in August and checked everything you have and are about to. I had the same issue with "no fobs detected" even with brand new batteries. I did the complete half hour reprogram and got it to work one time, but then the problem was back the next time I tried to start the car that very same day. Based on everything that you are experiencing I'm willing to bet if you replace the RCDLR that all the issues will go away. It stands for Remote Control Door Lock Receiver and is the unit the key fobs send their signal to. Getting it done at a shop will cost anywhere from $250-$500 but you can't avoid this because they have to completely reset some systems in the car once the new receiver is installed.
I forgot to ask, were you able to open your doors and were you able to start your car thru the glove? Per this bulletin, if it was the rcdlr, you wouldnt be able to do any?
I forgot to ask, were you able to open your doors and were you able to start your car thru the glove? Per this bulletin, if it was the rcdlr, you wouldnt be able to do any?
I was only able to open the doors on 2 separate occasions when I was experiencing problems. Even though I got the doors open, the car still wouldn't start.
Also, I think the description in the bulletin about the number of clicks is incorrect. When I was having issues, I would still hear multiple clicks when attempting to start the vehicle, not just one. Yet the RCDLR was still bad in my case. Got it replaced and haven't had an issue since.
Notice as well, that the bulletin states doors may not open.
I was only able to open the doors on 2 separate occasions when I was experiencing problems. Even though I got the doors open, the car still wouldn't start.
Also, I think the description in the bulletin about the number of clicks is incorrect. When I was having issues, I would still hear multiple clicks when attempting to start the vehicle, not just one. Yet the RCDLR was still bad in my case. Got it replaced and haven't had an issue since.
Notice as well, that the bulletin states doors may not open.
Interesting.. Now this sounds EXACTLY what my car is doing.. multiple clicks as well.. Calling the dealer in a bit to see if there is any way they can come out and tow the car..
Still in the garage with the battery unplugged.. I had 2 tow companies out that refused to take it because they cannot get it in neutral. They cannot get under the car. The second company will be out Saturday to take apart the console, and overide to put it in neutral. He just received the instructions from the Chevy dealer.. When he first came out, he said he can get it in accessory mode no problem. He said he has been doing this for 30 years towing corvettes and has never turned down a tow.. After an hour of trying to figure out the issue, he had to reschedule. I spoke to the Chevy dealer and they think it is the rcdlr.. Everything works except the radio, power locks, and accessory/start... Hopefully I will get it there and they are able to take it Saturday.. This has been brutal..
Last edited by Jason W Dreher; Jan 12, 2017 at 02:47 PM.
Damn... This is taking way to long.. hope that will be the fix..
Totally agreed.. I'm getting annoyed.. The positive side is it will be in the mid 40s next week which is rare in Chicago, during January and the fact that I don't drive in the winter either.. Other then that, I'm screwed if I can't get this out of the garage Saturday..
Last edited by Jason W Dreher; Jan 12, 2017 at 08:15 PM.
Tow truck driver is here now taking apart my middle console to try and get the car in neutral.. It's a shame that gm didn't have a backup plan for auto in these cases.. Hopefully it works..
If a battery is drained enough a trickle charger will not always bring it back up. You might want to see what voltage you have at the battery. If it's below 11.5 volts that is why you are having problems. After reading all of this it seems you may have connection problems or a short pulling down your batteries. Keep us informed as to what the cause is. Hope the tow truck driver is able to help you get help. Good luck.