Hi All,
At 12 years old with 38,000 I think my '06 LS2 Corvette is due for a new harmonic balancer - it's starting the shaking thing. What do you people recommend for a replacement ? I've been thinking about an ATI unit. I know I don't want another factory one.
I use the Vette as a cruiser not a race car.
Thank You

 

Of course there are many opinions. I think if you were to read threads back several years you would conclude most here like ATI best. I think ATI is generally considered the best while others work well enough.

Here are a couple old discussions to get you started:

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...87-nooooo.html

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...i-go-with.html

 

Ati 917266

 

http://www.jegs.com/i/ATI/085/917246/10002/-1

 

Powerbond PB1117N. Standard replacement that is better than OE but not as good as ATI.

Didn't need SFI rated so decided to save a little cash. $63 vs $420

 

If one were planning on an A&A kit in the future but needed a harmonic balancer now, could you get an Innovators West balancer?

 

you can run an ATI 8 rib on your 6 rib factory system now if thinking about A&A supercharging later

 

I am new to this, but why not use the underdrive pulley for $250 less than the ones your showing? (nevermind found threads for good and bad for underdrive pulleys.)

http://www.tickperformance.com/slp-h...t-part-100225/

 

Nope, the Powerbond PB1117N has the same problems as the OEM, since it is just a copy of the OEM.





Its the Powerbond PB1117SS model with front and back support of the outer pulley to inner hub what you want.

As for the PB1117N or ATI, all depends if you are going to run a supercharger or not.

If supercharger, then the ATI since the inner hub and outer pulley is bolted together.


The PB1117SS is a very good unit for a N/A motor with it front to back additional support to keep the outer pulley from wobbling isntead.

 

you mean the ss?

 

Good catch, and edited my post to show the correct model.

 

 

Yes on the PB1117SS, and would pin it since it does help to keep the bolt tight. Hence with a turbo, your not putting any more torque of the HB to crank, but the pinning just prevents slippage of the hub to the crank shaft instead.

So no, if you install the HB bolt correctly, it should not come loose in the first place. So pinning not really needed, but helps in regards to making sure that the HB does not slip on the crank to possible cause a HB bolt to become loose down the road isntead.

 

I read a lot before getting the 1117N. Didn't read any where that is was just as bad as the OE. Where did you hear/read that it was? Not sure same design as GM makes it the same quality as GM.

If I recall...many automotive dampers consist of a hub attached to the outer pulley with rubber. All I want is one to not wobble for the remaining years I own the car without having to pay a premium for ability to survive with a supercharger that I will never have.

 

Still a rubber center piece, glued to the outer pulley and inner hub. So produced the same way as the OEM, and will have a problem with the glue giving up over time, to allow the pulley to wobble on the hub.



On the SS, the center rubber piece is glued the same way, but the outer puller has a rear flange that the inner hub seats again, and on the outside of the pulley, it have a large C clip that retains the pulley to the hub tightly as well. So with clip and flange on both sides of the pulley to hub, it not going wobble after years of use/allows the rubber glue to hold up better as well.




As for why the ATI is better that the SS for superchargers, the SS still have the rubber piece that is glued to the both piece in the center, while the ATI has the pulley bolted to the center hub instead. Hence on the SS, with enough super charger torque to the HB, you can break the SS rubber bonding free to allow the pulley to slip on the hub isntead (although it won't wobble if it slipping due to side retainers).


The down side on the ATI, if you ever need to pull it (will need to remove the outer pulley first), replace the pulley bolts with brand new bolt, and don't try to reuse the old ones. Hence it not pretty if you try to reuse the old ones, since they only want to take a torque one time like the main HB bolt, and will end up snapping isntead.

 

Dayco 'PowerBond' Race Performance Harmonic Balancer

P/N: PB1117SS

$223 Shipped from Summit (much cheaper than the ATI unit, but just as good)

You will need a new GM Crankshaft Seal and Crank Bolt too

('Pin' it too if you are ever thinking of installing a supercharger) ... If not, don't worry about it

BTW ... Like everyone else has said ... DON'T use the stock OEM balancer from GM.




.

 

I just changed my oem HB and decided to go with summit. I didn't want to spend 400.00 but wanted something that could handle a SC just in case I get the bug. There were several good reviews from Vette owners as well.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...iveStar&page=2

 

Whatever you decide, stay away from the factory HB. Good luck

 

And ... You don't need an underdrive HB either.

You need to keep the alternator and water pump spinning at it's normal speed in these engines.

The extra power you would gain from installing an underdrive HB would be just enough to power an electric toothbrush !

 

Turbo,

Can you tell me what's the deal with the Innovators West 10% overdrive crank hubs? IW and A&A sell crank hubs in 8 and 10 rib versions in normal and 10% overdrive. I thought that meant just the supercharger was 10% OD, is that not true?
Link: https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/inw-843

I asked Andy at A&A, and he said that only the A&A IW hub is compatible with the A&A kit, not the ATI hub. Can't decide if I want the 8 or 10 rib or the seondary/flip drive. I want to buy once, cry once.