Quick question from the pro's
#1
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Quick question from the pro's
Hey guys back again with a quick question about my 2006 C6 LS2 vette.
-What spark plugs should i be buying?
-Should I change my wires too?
107k Miles and just putting new ones in to keep her healthy and running smooth.
(Also never done this before, so any tips much appreciated)
Messed up the title aswell, should have been " quick question for the pros "
-What spark plugs should i be buying?
-Should I change my wires too?
107k Miles and just putting new ones in to keep her healthy and running smooth.
(Also never done this before, so any tips much appreciated)
Messed up the title aswell, should have been " quick question for the pros "
Last edited by bruttix; 05-16-2018 at 09:32 PM.
#2
Le Mans Master
OEM plugs are fine and offer long life.
Odds are if you read the plugs the heat range is fine.
With 12 years and 107K miles it can be prudent to change the wires if not on a budget.
And knowing Murphy's Law, there's that change you'll damage an old wire upon removal.
Again OEM wires offer good performance.
(plus the wires are red in color!)
Tips: basis ratchet, extensions, spark plug socket will do the job. All plugs can be removed from the top. Start the work with the car cold, yet start the engine for 2 minutes just to get it warm, not skin burnable hot. Plus I like to use a torque wrench for the install, I believe the spec is 11 foot pounds for the plugs torque. Add Die Electric grease on the wires boots. Debatable whether to add anti-seize to the plug threads, but I add a small amount, even with new plugs.
Have fun.
Odds are if you read the plugs the heat range is fine.
With 12 years and 107K miles it can be prudent to change the wires if not on a budget.
And knowing Murphy's Law, there's that change you'll damage an old wire upon removal.
Again OEM wires offer good performance.
(plus the wires are red in color!)
Tips: basis ratchet, extensions, spark plug socket will do the job. All plugs can be removed from the top. Start the work with the car cold, yet start the engine for 2 minutes just to get it warm, not skin burnable hot. Plus I like to use a torque wrench for the install, I believe the spec is 11 foot pounds for the plugs torque. Add Die Electric grease on the wires boots. Debatable whether to add anti-seize to the plug threads, but I add a small amount, even with new plugs.
Have fun.
#3
Pro
When you actually replace the plug, rather than using the spark plug socket and wrench, slip a section of rubber hose (fuel lune works great!) over the end of the plug and start it into the hole in this manner. A few turns on the hose and you can then replace it with the actual socket to finish installing the plug. This prevents your cross-threading the threads in the cylinder head. I use a 12” length of hose.
Last edited by Racer1735; 05-16-2018 at 10:01 PM. Reason: Added info.
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RobJoy (05-17-2018)
#4
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OEM plugs are fine and offer long life.
Odds are if you read the plugs the heat range is fine.
With 12 years and 107K miles it can be prudent to change the wires if not on a budget.
And knowing Murphy's Law, there's that change you'll damage an old wire upon removal.
Again OEM wires offer good performance.
(plus the wires are red in color!)
Tips: basis ratchet, extensions, spark plug socket will do the job. All plugs can be removed from the top. Start the work with the car cold, yet start the engine for 2 minutes just to get it warm, not skin burnable hot. Plus I like to use a torque wrench for the install, I believe the spec is 11 foot pounds for the plugs torque. Add Die Electric grease on the wires boots. Debatable whether to add anti-seize to the plug threads, but I add a small amount, even with new plugs.
Have fun.
Odds are if you read the plugs the heat range is fine.
With 12 years and 107K miles it can be prudent to change the wires if not on a budget.
And knowing Murphy's Law, there's that change you'll damage an old wire upon removal.
Again OEM wires offer good performance.
(plus the wires are red in color!)
Tips: basis ratchet, extensions, spark plug socket will do the job. All plugs can be removed from the top. Start the work with the car cold, yet start the engine for 2 minutes just to get it warm, not skin burnable hot. Plus I like to use a torque wrench for the install, I believe the spec is 11 foot pounds for the plugs torque. Add Die Electric grease on the wires boots. Debatable whether to add anti-seize to the plug threads, but I add a small amount, even with new plugs.
Have fun.
Thanks for the reply, any videos or instructional manuals i can see diagrams at? Also should i buy the parts from the dealership or... a website ?
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bruttix (05-18-2018)
#8
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bruttix ....
Have you ever changed spark plugs on any car before? .... Nothing really special about changing the plugs on a C6.
Do a search on Youtube for videos
Have you ever changed spark plugs on any car before? .... Nothing really special about changing the plugs on a C6.
Do a search on Youtube for videos
#10
Drifting
If you can pull a plug out from one of the outlets in your home, and you can undo a bolt with a wrench, then technically you can change spark plugs.
Now, there are tips as mentioned above:
You need a GOOD torque wrench that reads accurately.
You need a little pick tool (or similar) so that you can "burp" the plug boots at the coil packs to allow them to slip on easily and get 2 audible clicks to ensure that the plugs seat correctly.
You need a magnetic spark plug socket so you can easily get your old plugs out and your news ones in without damaging them.
You need to be careful not to cross-thread your plugs into your heads. HAND TIGHTEN them when installing until they stop rotating. Then use your torque wrench.
Anti-seize is optional. If you use any on the plug threads, use a very little amount.
Finally, use dielectric grease on the plug wire ends (inside the boots) so they slide onto the plug and coil packs easily.
Good luck.
Now, there are tips as mentioned above:
You need a GOOD torque wrench that reads accurately.
You need a little pick tool (or similar) so that you can "burp" the plug boots at the coil packs to allow them to slip on easily and get 2 audible clicks to ensure that the plugs seat correctly.
You need a magnetic spark plug socket so you can easily get your old plugs out and your news ones in without damaging them.
You need to be careful not to cross-thread your plugs into your heads. HAND TIGHTEN them when installing until they stop rotating. Then use your torque wrench.
Anti-seize is optional. If you use any on the plug threads, use a very little amount.
Finally, use dielectric grease on the plug wire ends (inside the boots) so they slide onto the plug and coil packs easily.
Good luck.
Last edited by Must_Have_Z; 05-17-2018 at 09:16 AM.
#11
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Eleven foot pounds I believe is correct, though it may be difficult to get a torque wrench measuring foot-pounds into position to properly torque the plugs, I suggest using one calibrated for inch-pounds, they are smaller and easier to work with in tight spaces. The conversion is easy, just multiply lb-ft torque desired by 12 to get lb-in.
I would be very hesitant to use anything on the threads. Any type of lubricant will change the torque applied to the threads (over-torque).
When I replaced the spark plugs on my Yukon Denali (also aluminum heads), removing the plug boots was very difficult. It was really tough to get enough mechanical advantage to pull the boot straight off, and you don't want to twist it in the process. After taking 20 minutes to get the first and easiest boot off, I used an old shoe lace, tied onto the boot allowing me to get a good my hands back into an area where I could exert more effort. It took about 30 minutes to pull the next 7 plug wires.
HTH
I would be very hesitant to use anything on the threads. Any type of lubricant will change the torque applied to the threads (over-torque).
When I replaced the spark plugs on my Yukon Denali (also aluminum heads), removing the plug boots was very difficult. It was really tough to get enough mechanical advantage to pull the boot straight off, and you don't want to twist it in the process. After taking 20 minutes to get the first and easiest boot off, I used an old shoe lace, tied onto the boot allowing me to get a good my hands back into an area where I could exert more effort. It took about 30 minutes to pull the next 7 plug wires.
HTH
Last edited by mikeCsix; 05-17-2018 at 11:40 AM.
#13
Le Mans Master
Twist the wires them to aid in removal, and when that fails use needle-nose pliers to remove the busted electrode that's still clamped on the plug. Install replacement wires with copious dielectric grease.
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bruttix (05-18-2018)
#14
Dont know if anyone else said this but I shall anyways. IT is a really smart idea to take your air gun (fed by air compressor) and heavily blow out the spark plug recesses with the wires off before you ever loosen the old plugs. Keeps bad stuff from getting into engine.
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I am willing to bet that the OP don't have an air compressor.
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#17
Burning Brakes
The best deal I found was through Amazon for both.
Plugs:
Wires:
I just changed the plugs and wires on my car a couple of weeks ago (120k miles). Was pretty easy and straight forward. The hardest part is removing the old wires from the plugs. The grease turned into an adhesive over time.
Plugs:
Wires:
I just changed the plugs and wires on my car a couple of weeks ago (120k miles). Was pretty easy and straight forward. The hardest part is removing the old wires from the plugs. The grease turned into an adhesive over time.
Last edited by jaredtxrx; 05-17-2018 at 01:01 PM.
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bruttix (05-18-2018)
#18
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The best deal I found was through Amazon for both.
Plugs: https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-41-11..._&dpSrc=detail
Wires: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0..._rd_i=15684181
I just changed the plugs and wires on my car a couple of weeks ago (120k miles). Was pretty easy and straight forward. The hardest part is removing the old wires from the plugs. The grease turned into an adhesive over time.
Plugs: https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-41-11..._&dpSrc=detail
Wires: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0..._rd_i=15684181
I just changed the plugs and wires on my car a couple of weeks ago (120k miles). Was pretty easy and straight forward. The hardest part is removing the old wires from the plugs. The grease turned into an adhesive over time.
Alright, thanks but just to be sure these plugs are for the stock c6 2006 corvette right? unfortunately don't have the z51 like you :P
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bruttix ....
The Z51 option on the C6 does not effect the engine ... The engine is the same as yours and it uses the same spark plugs and plug wires as yours.
The Z51 option on the C6 does not effect the engine ... The engine is the same as yours and it uses the same spark plugs and plug wires as yours.
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bruttix (05-18-2018)