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C6 Corvette ZR1 & Z06General info about GM’s Corvette Supercar, LS9 Corvette Technical Info, Performance Upgrades, Suspension Setup for Street or Track
You need to get a mother bottle. I pay $70 a year for the lease and $150 every time I get a bottle, which I think is 55#
If there was availability in my area. My tuner just sent his car to Nitrous Outlet as a test car. I'll get with him to see if he is going to start selling and maybe split the cost with him.
Are you using a dry Nitrous setup? If so, can you tell me what you are using.
Yes, spraying the extra fuel needed through the injectors. Using a relay to trick the ecu to see a certain IAT. In the tune I altered those tables to pull timing and add fuel when the system fires. The nozzle is placed in the intake tube spraying around the MAF (not directly at it). The system is a Nitrous Outlet universal dry kit and a NOS dual stage wot controller. Let me know if you want more info.
Yes, spraying the extra fuel needed through the injectors. Using a relay to trick the ecu to see a certain IAT. In the tune I altered those tables to pull timing and add fuel when the system fires. The nozzle is placed in the intake tube spraying around the MAF (not directly at it). The system is a Nitrous Outlet universal dry kit and a NOS dual stage wot controller. Let me know if you want more info.
That sounds like a great idea. I would like to lose my stand alone and all of the wiring that is required for the LNC2000 if I could and it sounds like your setup would do it. I am running 1050x injectors and not really putting them to good use. I already have a controller, so I guess that I would just need the nozzle, relay and possibly a solenoid. I guess that my tuner would know how to tune it. Does the dry kit use a different Nitrous solenoid.
That sounds like a great idea. I would like to lose my stand alone and all of the wiring that is required for the LNC2000 if I could and it sounds like your setup would do it. I am running 1050x injectors and not really putting them to good use. I already have a controller, so I guess that I would just need the nozzle, relay and possibly a solenoid. I guess that my tuner would know how to tune it. Does the dry kit use a different Nitrous solenoid.
That's the main reason I decided to try it. I run ID1000s and was no where near maxing them out. I compiled all the info from old forum posts on here and LS1tech. You would need to wire up a relay to ground out the IAT signal wire to a ~12k ohm 1/2 watt resistor. This will set your IAT to -2 degrees. Then adjust that table to pull timing and the IAT vs injector table to add fuel. You can use the same nitrous solenoid you have now and the purge setup. Just grab a single nozzle and jet accordingly. Best thing is you can hide it all really well if you take your time laying it all out. Once the IAT relay is activated, the switch happens within 50rpms. Another thing is you can run the bottle pretty low and still have good results.
Yes, you are correct. I just got the headers and mid-pipe back from the coaters yesterday, and Jim Hall had at one time modified his titanium mid-pipe to work with the ARH headers, but I'm not going to go that far.
I'll just run the heavier, coated mid-pipe and leave my titanium mid-pipe alone...stored in a box in the garage
I'll put them on the scale before the install to see what weight I've gained
About 9 or 10 pounds. You know me, just the thought makes me queesy. Seriously, how did your B&Bs look? When I bought mine I was impressed by the weight but a little concerned about durability. So far, at 65,000 miles, no problems. I hope they don't tool up for 2" headers or my wife will be pissed😄
Looking to visit a local dynojet just to see how the numbers compare. I'll be using JMS' dyno in San Antonio, Tx. It's more "well-known" than any other in the area.
That's the main reason I decided to try it. I run ID1000s and was no where near maxing them out. I compiled all the info from old forum posts on here and LS1tech. You would need to wire up a relay to ground out the IAT signal wire to a ~12k ohm 1/2 watt resistor. This will set your IAT to -2 degrees. Then adjust that table to pull timing and the IAT vs injector table to add fuel. You can use the same nitrous solenoid you have now and the purge setup. Just grab a single nozzle and jet accordingly. Best thing is you can hide it all really well if you take your time laying it all out. Once the IAT relay is activated, the switch happens within 50rpms. Another thing is you can run the bottle pretty low and still have good results.
pretty wicked setup bro. Do you have links how to do this? Or it’s compiled in your notes. Way too cool man
pretty wicked setup bro. Do you have links how to do this? Or it’s compiled in your notes. Way too cool man
This is what I sent Lamboworld in PM
All you need is a nitrous solenoid, purge solenoid, and a single 90 degree nitrous nozzle. Relays for the solenoids and heater if you decide to keep it.
You will need to wire up a relay for the IAT tricker. Run the IAT circuit (2nd to the left on the MAF plug) through the NC loop in the relay (Prongs 30 and 87A). Run the NO (Prong 87) to a 12k ohm 1/2 watt resistor and then to a ground. Then wire up 85 to ground. 86 will be your power signal from your nitrous controller.
With the 12k ohm resistor, it will show IAT around -2 degrees. I tuned that row and 2 rows on either side, just to be safe. Pull your timing in the IAT timing table. Adjust your fueling in the IAT vs Injector Flow Rate table. It's roughly 5-8% fuel needed per 50hp shot. It will spike rich instead of lean.
Install the nozzle pre-MAF if you have the room and make it so the center of the spray goes around the MAF. If not, it will wig out.
There is another way to do it without using a relay but you have to do a lot of logs on the street and the dyno. I think the relay works fine and is a little safer.
All you need is a nitrous solenoid, purge solenoid, and a single 90 degree nitrous nozzle. Relays for the solenoids and heater if you decide to keep it.
You will need to wire up a relay for the IAT tricker. Run the IAT circuit (2nd to the left on the MAF plug) through the NC loop in the relay (Prongs 30 and 87A). Run the NO (Prong 87) to a 12k ohm 1/2 watt resistor and then to a ground. Then wire up 85 to ground. 86 will be your power signal from your nitrous controller.
With the 12k ohm resistor, it will show IAT around -2 degrees. I tuned that row and 2 rows on either side, just to be safe. Pull your timing in the IAT timing table. Adjust your fueling in the IAT vs Injector Flow Rate table. It's roughly 5-8% fuel needed per 50hp shot. It will spike rich instead of lean.
Install the nozzle pre-MAF if you have the room and make it so the center of the spray goes around the MAF. If not, it will wig out.
There is another way to do it without using a relay but you have to do a lot of logs on the street and the dyno. I think the relay works fine and is a little safer.
you’re the man bro. One hell of a badass ride you have too can’t even imagine the power you have. Awesome
Looking to visit a local dynojet just to see how the numbers compare. I'll be using JMS' dyno in San Antonio, Tx. It's more "well-known" than any other in the area.
Jay,
Dont know if you know....but that JMS dyno is regarded as producing VERY "optimistic" results but it will be a fun baseline. I would not be surprised to see dyno numbers from JMS even higher of what you currently have.
Performance HQ/Lethal has a "standardized" dyno that reads on par with most and their shop is very nice.
Dont know if you know....but that JMS dyno is regarded as producing VERY "optimistic" results but it will be a fun baseline. I would not be surprised to see dyno numbers from JMS even higher of what you currently have.
Performance HQ/Lethal has a "standardized" dyno that reads on par with most and their shop is very nice.
Oh, I know. LOL. I have a rolling joke with some buddies and we call it the Disneyland dyno. I chose that one because a good buddy has used their dyno to baseline every change he’s done on his car and it’s very consistent.
Ive heard PHQ is losing techs and not doing very well. Not something I want to be apart of, honestly.
Oh, I know. LOL. I have a rolling joke with some buddies and we call it the Disneyland dyno. I chose that one because a good buddy has used their dyno to baseline every change he’s done on his car and it’s very consistent.
Ive heard PHQ is losing techs and not doing very well. Not something I want to be apart of, honestly.
Then why are you using it for a Dynojet pull if it is a "Disneyland" dyno? I would figure you would want to see what a "normal" DJ would put your car at to compare it to the Dynacom or whichever dyno you used.
I dont like beating my car up on the dyno so not even sure i will do it.
Ah ok, that makes sense then since it is well known.
I understand that, after my next mods I will dyno the car and may not ever again unless it is on a dyno that is happy enough to give me crazy numbers for the heck of it lol.
I dont like beating my car up on the dyno so not even sure i will do it.
I think that the only real benefit is that a lot of guys on this board have used this dyno and you can see how you compare against their cars. That seems worth it to me to at least make a few pulls. However, I am sure that you know that if you are looking for DJ numbers that you would get from an normal DJ, then this is not the spot to go. I think that I have seen a BTR3 cammed car put down 630whp or something crazy like that, when that cam is really a 580 to 585whp cam, at best, on a normal DJ.
I think that the only real benefit is that a lot of guys on this board have used this dyno and you can see how you compare against their cars. That seems worth it to me to at least make a few pulls. However, I am sure that you know that if you are looking for DJ numbers that you would get from an normal DJ, then this is not the spot to go. I think that I have seen a BTR3 cammed car put down 630whp or something crazy like that, when that cam is really a 580 to 585whp cam, at best, on a normal DJ.
Regardless, you have an awesome setup.
Honestly, I don’t care as much about the numbers. But you’re right, it’ll be easier to compare then a dyno that no one has ever heard about.
I really want to see how my graph looks on a dynojet because my torque curve is ugly as sin and can’t figure out why. We’ve tried timing and fuel adjustments and weren’t able to move it.
Contemplating selling my “race exhaust” setup. Ceramic coated 1-7/8” ARH with ARH x-pipe, magnaflow mufflers, and turndowns. I want to do 2” headers, 3.5” collectors, 3.5” pipes to turndowns.
Honestly, I don’t care as much about the numbers. But you’re right, it’ll be easier to compare then a dyno that no one has ever heard about.
I really want to see how my graph looks on a dynojet because my torque curve is ugly as sin and can’t figure out why. We’ve tried timing and fuel adjustments and weren’t able to move it.
Contemplating selling my “race exhaust” setup. Ceramic coated 1-7/8” ARH with ARH x-pipe, magnaflow mufflers, and turndowns. I want to do 2” headers, 3.5” collectors, 3.5” pipes to turndowns.
Yes, I think that it is easier to see what is going on with a Dynojet. I switched to the ARH 2" and Xpipe and put my stock mufflers back on. It feels faster to me with the stock mufflers (seems crazy) and it is much more civil to drive, at least when I want it to be civil. I have a 2011 Z06, so it is the same mufflers as the ZR1.
Yes, I think that it is easier to see what is going on with a Dynojet. I switched to the ARH 2" and Xpipe and put my stock mufflers back on. It feels faster to me with the stock mufflers (seems crazy) and it is much more civil to drive, at least when I want it to be civil. I have a 2011 Z06, so it is the same mufflers as the ZR1.
Loved my ZR1 muffler setup. Loud as hell when it was open but tame when it was closed.
07-08-2018, 09:30 AM
