Compressor Map Q
I'm betting that's your problem, and if it is, BB or not, it will destroy the new turbos too, just the more expensive ones! 
CK










Red Line = 11psi; ~550 rwhp
Green Line = 14psi; ~625 rwhp
Blue Line = 18 psi; ~800??
Car ran well at 11 psi but always seemed like it needed more. Apparently the wheel was only spinning about 50k rpm (Supercharger territory).

It felt much better at 14psi (Green Line) and based on one datalog at 17 psi, it is really beginning to shine. The Blue Line is where I am headed. Based on the map, I may even push them beyond that.
Red Line = 11psi; ~550 rwhp
Green Line = 14psi; ~625 rwhp
Blue Line = 18 psi; ~800??
Car ran well at 11 psi but always seemed like it needed more. Apparently the wheel was only spinning about 50k rpm (Supercharger territory).

It felt much better at 14psi (Green Line) and based on one datalog at 17 psi, it is really beginning to shine. The Blue Line is where I am headed. Based on the map, I may even push them beyond that.





Red Line = 11psi; ~550 rwhp
Green Line = 14psi; ~625 rwhp
Blue Line = 18 psi; ~800??
Car ran well at 11 psi but always seemed like it needed more. Apparently the wheel was only spinning about 50k rpm (Supercharger territory).

It felt much better at 14psi (Green Line) and based on one datalog at 17 psi, it is really beginning to shine. The Blue Line is where I am headed. Based on the map, I may even push them beyond that.

Last edited by 5 Liter Eater; Dec 28, 2011 at 11:05 PM.

http://turbocharged.com/main.htm
For compressor maps,
Also for turbo sizing, click Catalog, turbochargers and accessories, compressor wheels and housings. (sry, it's flash, no direct link)
And for automated plotting of compressor maps:
http://www.not2fast.com/turbo/glossary/turbo_calc.shtml
As far as the Lb/min, it's a rough estimate, and there is some fudge room in there. 10# per 100hp has been a general rule for quite a while, but with the advent of E85, we're starting to see better results. But for baseline #"s it works well.
As far as the 550whp, that was of course E85, ~24psi, no nitrous, on a honda. If you play with the link above, look how altitude effects the outcome as well. So some turbos are better suited for sealevel, where as others the efficency improves with altitude.
If you really want to go in depth, dyno your car N/A (or find one similar, cam/heads/cid) and you can reverse calculate the VE based off RPM/HP/lbs-min. This will give you a semi usable VE curve that you can plot more thoroughly, at each individual RPM and compare against the comp maps. Now of course other factors play into it, but for baselining a comp map/turbo, this will get you really close.
CK
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts


I still don't see why turbo manufacturers are so secretive. How am I supposed to know that my "Turbonetics 57" is the T04B H-3? I guess it's marketing but if turbo specs were listed like cam specs it would make it a lot easier! Those in the know could spec out a cheap turbo that will perform well in their setup. Hey wait, I know someone who did that....

UPP


I still don't see why turbo manufacturers are so secretive. How am I supposed to know that my "Turbonetics 57" is the T04B H-3? I guess it's marketing but if turbo specs were listed like cam specs it would make it a lot easier! Those in the know could spec out a cheap turbo that will perform well in their setup. Hey wait, I know someone who did that....

UPP

You think turbo manufacuters are secretive, I've never seen a supercharger comp map (besides Eaton). And the compressors on those should be relatively the same...
Now you keep saying Turbonetics 57, where did that come from?
Let me run you through some of their nomenclature: T3 and T4 are housing sizes, T3/T4 is a hybrid with a T3 turbine and a T4 compressor. T04B and T04E are compressor housings, The 'E' is larger in diameter, but appears skinnier. The 'B' is shorter and fatter. (I'll post pics tomorrow if I get a chance, as we have both in stock). The 'E' appears to be a bigger frame, but the 'B' flows more (generally), as the wheel size inside is bigger. And lastly are the trims, which are a size of the compressor inducer/exducer themselves.
Also I was wrong earlier, turbonetics does have their stuff posted finally, it's just burried a bit you have to look for it,
http://74.208.101.201/forum/tech-sup....html#post5821
http://turboneticsinc.com/content/compressor-maps
What I find amazing stiill is all the crap I got when I introduced this kit....come to find out, we're using the exact turbos that TTix is! LOL
CK
vacuum at idle, nothing more. Many people think larger springs are needed for larger boost, but this is not the case. If you look at the design of the bov there's always boost pressure on bottom, and with an equal or larger diaphram on top boost pressure + spring pressure. That's saying boost + spring > boost, so no matter the boost pressure, the valve should always stay closed. If you pull off the bov and have a hard time pressing it open, it's too tight. Cut the spring or replace it with a softer one. Nick, you probably won't have a hard time pressing it open, but try giving it to one of us meir mortals without the super human muscles! :d i'm betting that's your problem, and if it is, bb or not, it will destroy the new turbos too, just the more expensive ones!

Ck
Hope you can pencil in 2 hours on the 6th to watch your old kit run 9's banging gears.





Before you order a new turbine housing, wait and check the ones that you are getting. I went back and searched the part number on my housing. (20359-05) Based on the chart below, it is already a 0.82 A/R.





Don't worry, I'm going to let your LS6 push them for all they're worth.


Yea, they don't even make a .62; .63 and .82. We'll see, I am waiting to lay my hands on them and verify everything before I do anything. With the links CK posted I'll be able to 100% identify everything about them. I know now I would need to identify what stage turbine wheel/housing I have in order to get a matching stage turbine housing if I do need to go larger anyway.





The boost controller is working great. Thanks for sending it my way.

17 psi (10 turns) was accidental and felt great, but it shut the car down (REP mode) at 5200 rpm due to the 2.32 g/cyl limit. I was able to tune around it, but in the interest of keeping the engine together I dialed it back to 14 psi. I'm looking forward to turning it back up soon.










