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Vette has been running too good for past 8 months, so time to pull it apart and fix that.
In order to prep for the Oct 3/4 1/2 mile race, doing a few mods and stuff I've been wanting to do for awhile.
Swapping from Fore twin 320 setup to a Fore triple 450 setup. Adding a check valve to the feed line to help with starts.
Swapping the bone stock 40k mile t56 for a built 6060. Same ratios. Dsteck's old tranny before he did an auto swap. Had it in the garage for almost 2 years now, so might as well put it in.
Also swapping to A&A direct drive system, because I have a desire to have the most pieced together complicated SC system on a c6, so might as well mix and match every single brand I can find.
Fuel tank out, tranny ready to drop. Only work on car from ~7-9 in the morning because past that it is 100+ outside and I rather enjoy the AC. Need to order some parts anyways so no huge rush.
Thinking easiest way to swap tranny is just drop the whole torque tube.
Managing it isn't bad, just getting to the bolts. With the ECS tranny brace not sure I can get to the upper tranny bolts easily. Getting to the torque tube bolts up front is cake. Either way got to get console and shifter disconnected.
I'll see about doing just the trans part later when I get back to it (or next weekend). Only pay about dropping the TT is disconnecting the slave, but fluid has 15k+ miles on it so probably time to service it anyways.
any reason for switching to the a&a secondary drive?
Only swapping the top part out. Because I'm a perfectionist and after ~6k miles the alt belt needs to be tightened, which takes 2 minutes, but since I can sell my current stuff for exactly the same as swapping to the new stuff cost, why not? Hoping the auto tensioner makes it so it self adjust so every 6k+ miles no manual adjustment needed.
I have the A&A and it does the same thing my other flip drives do. It squeaks and squeals until the belts/car is warmed up if I turn on the AC. It only does it about half of the time. I was talking to Pat G when he tuned my car and he said he's seen it a bit and his car does it as well. Then it stops once the car is warm. Both the DP and A&A direct/secondary drive have started to eat up belts around 4-5k too. I'm pretty hard on my cars like you. If it's running, it's going WOT every time I drive it.
Managing it isn't bad, just getting to the bolts. With the ECS tranny brace not sure I can get to the upper tranny bolts easily. Getting to the torque tube bolts up front is cake. Either way got to get console and shifter disconnected.
I'll see about doing just the trans part later when I get back to it (or next weekend). Only pay about dropping the TT is disconnecting the slave, but fluid has 15k+ miles on it so probably time to service it anyways.
Yep. Front torque tube bolts are cake. I prefer to just remove the shifter altogether so it's out of the way.
Hardest part going back together is getting input shaft splines aligned properly with friction disc during re-install if you pull it totally out. I found using a borescope or very bright flash light to get the splines aligned perfectly makes it go together easy. After it's started going together just raise the back end up and down while pushing things forward and they'll eventually line up right and go together. Watch out for wiring harness near engine. I've nearly smashed mine a time or two. And make sure shifter linkage is in the right spot prior to raising torque tube up all the way. Zip tie in place. I had to lower the rear cradle back down a little bit once because it was jammed between torque tube and tunnel because it was in the wrong place when I tightened the rear cradle up.
On slave line--easiest way I've found is to just remove the fender and washer tank. It's a pain but only takes a few minutes and then you have easy access to the connection.
I usually need good access during re-install of the slave to master connector. They can take some force to get together so it's easier with the fender off. I've done it with it on, but don't want to do that again.
That's about all I got.
Last edited by schpenxel; Aug 24, 2015 at 10:35 AM.
I have the A&A and it does the same thing my other flip drives do. It squeaks and squeals until the belts/car is warmed up if I turn on the AC. It only does it about half of the time. I was talking to Pat G when he tuned my car and he said he's seen it a bit and his car does it as well. Then it stops once the car is warm. Both the DP and A&A direct/secondary drive have started to eat up belts around 4-5k too. I'm pretty hard on my cars like you. If it's running, it's going WOT every time I drive it.
Good luck on the new fuel system and setup!
Lame. My DP setup makes zero noises. Just after 5-6k miles I noticed if I downshift and go into a corner, the voltage drops. High load of the engine deceling, belt loosening up, and load from PS steering cause the alt/ps to slip.
If I trade that for squealing on start ups, I'll go back to the DP setup because I rather just tighten the belt every 5-6k miles than deal with noises on start up.
Already posted a picture of new fuel setup, so not sure what else people want to see. It is a fore triple 450. Looks identical to old setup besides has 3 450s instead of 2 320s.
Schen, this will be #8-9 drivetrain is out, but didn't know if it was worth pulling the TT since just the tranny needs to come out. Done the stupid shifter rod thing where it was in the wrong spot. I also have a solid line from master to slave (tick stainless single piece) so just unscrews from the master there.
Between the Corvette, Mustang, and Jeep I'm constantly working on cars. Next house will have a dedicated shop. Put down some flooring under the car too. Will get pictures later, made a big difference.
Hoping to once again be the fastest vette at the 1/2 mile here in October. Not expecting to gain any HP out of e85, as blower is maxed out. Not sure what I could get from running a few degrees more timing.
Because it is cool? Not sure if I am or am not. Just adding ability to run it. I was told there is a station a few miles down the street now, so why not. Probably just stick to VP for events, but ability to run e85 is nice if it is available.
Got that garage floor mat from Costco yesterday. Works great.
Car updates
sick.