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All great choices. Glad things are progressing Nick.
I went with the 2126 lifters due to the axle oiling feature. Both are great lifters, but I wanted the axle oiling. I have the Katech red oil pump though as I know I was going to lose some oil pressure with these lifters. Works great now, perfect oil pressure.
What oil pump will you install? If you are staying with the OEM pump I would go 2116. If not, then 2126. In any event, I would avoid the short travel version. Pain in the *** to set pre-load. Stick with the .093" plunger travel.
Will be doing a big update on here soon. Race Engine Shop is doing the motor. Lots of cool trick stuff. Michael has been a pleasure so far to work with.
Heads are on the way
Mast 285
Victory DLC coated TI intake valves
Inconel Exhaust valves
Pac Springs, etc etc
Crower Steel Shaft Rockers
Other than that basics are
LSR block
4.125x4"
Callies Dragon Slayer (reused for current motor)
Callies Ultra Billet I Beams
Custom Crazy pistons, RES spec ~10:1 compression
Etc etc etc
[QUOTE=Unreal;1597050875]Trying to catchup after a week in Costa Rica.
Will be doing a big update on here soon. Race Engine Shop is doing the motor. Lots of cool trick stuff. Michael has been a pleasure so far to work with.
Heads are on the way
Mast 285
Victory DLC coated TI intake valves
Inconel Exhaust valves
Pac Springs, etc etc
Crower Steel Shaft Rockers
Other than that basics are
LSR block
4.125x4"
Callies Dragon Slayer (reused for current motor)
Callies Ultra Billet I Beams
Custom Crazy pistons, RES spec ~10:1 compression
Etc etc etc[/QUOTE
Upgraded to CA625 head studs. Was a nice inbetween 1/2" studs and normal ARP 2000.
Looking at improved racing crank scraper. Need to figure out if that works with the block/dragon slayer.
So the CA625 head studs aren't 1/2" but you still get better clamping force? Sounds like a good option instead of the machining cost for the 1/2" studs and more expensive 1/2" head stud kit if so.
Not clamping force, as they are still stock size studs, but they are a stronger material less likely to stretch/deform. Now they may be torqued higher, not sure. Would have to ask engine guy, but the benefit is the strong stud, not increased clamping force.
Was a ~$400 upgrade compared to $860 upgrade. $1000 head studs vs $1460 for 1/2"
Not clamping force, as they are still stock size studs, but they are a stronger material less likely to stretch/deform. Now they may be torqued higher, not sure. Would have to ask engine guy, but the benefit is the strong stud, not increased clamping force.
Was a ~$400 upgrade compared to $860 upgrade. $1000 head studs vs $1460 for 1/2"
Great to know. I was told to go for the 1/2" over 1000 whp but the stronger material seems to be the right decision if I'm flirting with that line.
I would 100% bet not. If anything, a F1X, or a V15. That being said, goal is just fun reliable, and actually same power as before. It was already a handful, it doesn't need more power.
I would 100% bet not. If anything, a F1X, or a V15. That being said, goal is just fun reliable, and actually same power as before. It was already a handful, it doesn't need more power.
An F1X would make for a monster. I only said that because I seem to recall that you said a while back that if you had to do it over you wouldve gone with the F-1A-94...? Or maybe it was something or someone else? I dunno. I can’t even even keep up with which blower is what these days...
I can only imagine that it was a handful already...