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Unreal...maybe a worth-wile investment would be a J&S Safeguard. It would've prevented your catastrophic failure from the tuning whoops. Best $600 you'll ever spend...especially when we're talking about $15-20K engines.
I can't post a link due to forum rules, but if you want to give it a look and discuss further, I'd be happy to PM you.
Man, I had forgotten about those. A lot of big marine engine builders swear by them. They’re absolutely the best $600 you can spend, especially when you’re using it to detect knock on an $75,000++ boat motor with an open exhaust, because you’ll never hear one of those knocking before it self-destructs. But these cars already come with knock sensors, so I’m thinking by using a gadget like Dashlogic, you can set up a KR alarm that basically does the same thing, no?
Unreal...maybe a worth-wile investment would be a J&S Safeguard. It would've prevented your catastrophic failure from the tuning whoops. Best $600 you'll ever spend...especially when we're talking about $15-20K engines.
I can't post a link due to forum rules, but if you want to give it a look and discuss further, I'd be happy to PM you.
No and no. Been there, done that.
The factory system is as good or better, and was fully enabled. Knock detection, which I had, would have not done anything.
Maybe wideband CL control at WOT, but even then it can only react so fast.
The factory system is as good or better, and was fully enabled. Knock detection, which I had, would have not done anything.
Maybe wideband CL control at WOT, but even then it can only react so fast.
I respectfully disagree. After playing with both (factory knock sensors & PCMs vs. J&S) for years, the factory knock setups are NOWHERE NEAR as advanced in capability as the J&S. But I digress...I thought I would at least offer. It is the first thing I'm buying for my newest ZO6 so I can ditch the stocker.
Man, I had forgotten about those. A lot of big marine engine builders swear by them. They’re absolutely the best $600 you can spend, especially when you’re using it to detect knock on an $75,000++ boat motor with an open exhaust, because you’ll never hear one of those knocking before it self-destructs. But these cars already come with knock sensors, so I’m thinking by using a gadget like Dashlogic, you can set up a KR alarm that basically does the same thing, no?
To summarize, NO you can't do what a J&S will do with factory PCMs. Nor are there tables or scalars in any aftermarket software have the "logic programmed" in that a J&S does. It simply stands alone at the top of the heap for knock protection...and MAX SAFE power.
To summarize, NO you can't do what a J&S will do with factory PCMs. Nor are there tables or scalars in any aftermarket software have the "logic programmed" in that a J&S does. It simply stands alone at the top of the heap for knock protection...and MAX SAFE power.
At what power level would you think about this? Mods + horsepower or major rebuilds ? Seems like it would be cheap protection. If it works fast enough.
I've dealt with them before. They are nice, but it wouldn't have done anything for me, and the factory LS system is pretty damn good as long as you aren't turning it down or nerfing it.
I've dealt with them before. They are nice, but it wouldn't have done anything for me, and the factory LS system is pretty damn good as long as you aren't turning it down or nerfing it.
Pretty good compared to what? Anything that deals in GLOBAL retard isn't top quality.
Last edited by Pb82 Ronin; Mar 27, 2018 at 08:25 PM.
Need to figure out the cam stuff. Still want streetable, no surge, no issues low RPM, but maximize power from 5-7k. Don't mind giving up low end. Car made stupid torque everywhere so more low end isn't an issue.
Still up in the air on solid vs hydralic. Also with the shaft rockers/etc any reason to get into bigger lift? I wonder how something like a 238/252 116 at around .700 lift would work, or would the extra .050 lift not really do much of anything for my setup.
My cam is from Comp 235/251 115 LSA no drivability issues at all but i drive a stick. Not a cam for flat top pistons but I think you were going to lower your CR
A cam for a stock ls2/3 car, and a 1200+rwhp shaft rocker setup with some big heads and 427+ cubes is going to be wildly different. My current cam has been kicking ***, and tempted to keep it, but could live with a bit bigger for sure.
A cam for a stock ls2/3 car, and a 1200+rwhp shaft rocker setup with some big heads and 427+ cubes is going to be wildly different. My current cam has been kicking ***, and tempted to keep it, but could live with a bit bigger for sure.
I still think the Greg Good 290cc CID heads are worth a shot.
Not to be mean...but those head flow numbers are nothing spectacular. They're on par (and in 75% of listed numbers, out performed) with other available heads out there. Those BARELY out flow stock heads until .500 and higher. Other profiles out there will provide much better results and numbers. Again, not trying to rain on any parades...but flow numbers are pretty repeatable and standardized. So if the posted numbers are factual...those heads aren't that great, especially with that "large" of an intake valve.
Last edited by Pb82 Ronin; Mar 29, 2018 at 11:36 PM.
Unreal - don't know the specs but this cam works well with my Brodix BR7 LME heads. Drives exactly how you want. If you call them, they would probably give you the specs. http://dallasperformance.bigcartel.c...lower-camshaft
I'm not doing an off the shelf cam. I need to decide who to use, and the cam will be cut to my exact heads, motor, etc once I pick that out. There is no reason to run an off the shelf cam on a build like this.