2018 Build
Racer
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 488
Likes: 59
From: New Melle, Missouri
2018 C6 of Year Finalist
Trying to decide on heads/cam setup.
Leaning towards the BP BR 7 BS 285 Brodix heads with Ti intakes/inconel exhaust.
Not sure if the copper seats are good for street use. Also trying to find a place that actually does these heads. They are setup for big spring and shaft rockers. Need the special crower set and they run a 1.65" spring which is nice.
Leaning towards the BP BR 7 BS 285 Brodix heads with Ti intakes/inconel exhaust.
Not sure if the copper seats are good for street use. Also trying to find a place that actually does these heads. They are setup for big spring and shaft rockers. Need the special crower set and they run a 1.65" spring which is nice.
https://borowskirace.com/
Racer
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 488
Likes: 59
From: New Melle, Missouri
2018 C6 of Year Finalist
Looked at the LSnext in Iron, but don't really like the oil pan situation, and how stuff mounts for a full street car.
The LSR blocks are good.
Talking with a few very well known builders, and they all think my current block is fine based off what they can see. So that throws a potential wrench in it, if it just needs to be punch .005 over and new pistons.
Either way I want to go aluminum though.
Racks out. Just need to get a crane to yank it.
99% set on Mast 285cc heads.
The LSR blocks are good.
Talking with a few very well known builders, and they all think my current block is fine based off what they can see. So that throws a potential wrench in it, if it just needs to be punch .005 over and new pistons.
Either way I want to go aluminum though.
Racks out. Just need to get a crane to yank it.
99% set on Mast 285cc heads.
http://dartheads.com/dart-product/ls...um-full-skirt/
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 24,035
Likes: 2,342
From: Gilbert AZ
I know that, posted about it, talked about it. That was in response to running the LSX next iron block, not the SHP one.
Still mixed on block. Options are really just rebuild mine, which is cheapest option.
New LSX block, just because new.
Or LSR block, but hearing mixed stuff on them. 1/2 the builders say they are great, no issues, other 1/2 say junk and need $2-3k in machine work to make them usable. Would suck to buy a block for $4500 then need $3k into work to make it even usable.
Still mixed on block. Options are really just rebuild mine, which is cheapest option.
New LSX block, just because new.
Or LSR block, but hearing mixed stuff on them. 1/2 the builders say they are great, no issues, other 1/2 say junk and need $2-3k in machine work to make them usable. Would suck to buy a block for $4500 then need $3k into work to make it even usable.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,399
Likes: 30
+1 on keeping the LSX and just fixing it. I've seen a lot of high hp builds like yours last a long time.
I haven't heard 1st hand of anyone running the LSR but I'd assume it's going to need machine work being a fairly new design.
I haven't heard 1st hand of anyone running the LSR but I'd assume it's going to need machine work being a fairly new design.
Pro
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 520
Likes: 52
If you don't go with the LSR I would go with the Dart SHP Pro just because it is cheaper than the LSX and includes main studs standard. Plus it uses factory tins, no goofy rear cover. Only downside is that the SHP Pro's are not shipping yet.
Racer
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 488
Likes: 59
From: New Melle, Missouri
2018 C6 of Year Finalist
I know that, posted about it, talked about it. That was in response to running the LSX next iron block, not the SHP one.
Still mixed on block. Options are really just rebuild mine, which is cheapest option.
New LSX block, just because new.
Or LSR block, but hearing mixed stuff on them. 1/2 the builders say they are great, no issues, other 1/2 say junk and need $2-3k in machine work to make them usable. Would suck to buy a block for $4500 then need $3k into work to make it even usable.
Still mixed on block. Options are really just rebuild mine, which is cheapest option.
New LSX block, just because new.
Or LSR block, but hearing mixed stuff on them. 1/2 the builders say they are great, no issues, other 1/2 say junk and need $2-3k in machine work to make them usable. Would suck to buy a block for $4500 then need $3k into work to make it even usable.
well give Ken a call on the Brodix Heads (great stuff)
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 24,035
Likes: 2,342
From: Gilbert AZ
The thing with blocks is people don't see to understand the difference in work to get them up to usable condition. The first gen LSX blocks like mine needed ~$2k in work.
I'm being told LSR lift bores have issues, easy to fix, but pricey to rebush them, or move them, or oversize them if needed. Basically expect $1200-1500 extra in machine work for a LSR block.
I'm being told LSR lift bores have issues, easy to fix, but pricey to rebush them, or move them, or oversize them if needed. Basically expect $1200-1500 extra in machine work for a LSR block.
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Drifting
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,342
Likes: 89
From: Maryland
Planning to follow the build, great to hear you thinking through the options. LSX blocks always seem to be in the conversation and the extra weight doesn't seem to bother most people as long as they have suspensions mods and/or just plan to do straight line racing. Planning on a standard deck LSX myself, unless something changes my mind before fall...
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 24,035
Likes: 2,342
From: Gilbert AZ
Everything I saw, and talking to a lot of people the 305s perform worse than the 285s, even in 1000-1200hp applications.
Steering away from mast based off info I received.
My LSX has served me well, and may be reused. But going through this again, the extra $4k or so for aluminum is tempting. Not so much for weight, but I think for 1000-1200rwhp street car, the cooling is pretty big advantage.
Steering away from mast based off info I received.
My LSX has served me well, and may be reused. But going through this again, the extra $4k or so for aluminum is tempting. Not so much for weight, but I think for 1000-1200rwhp street car, the cooling is pretty big advantage.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,342
Likes: 89
From: Maryland
Everything I saw, and talking to a lot of people the 305s perform worse than the 285s, even in 1000-1200hp applications.
Steering away from mast based off info I received.
My LSX has served me well, and may be reused. But going through this again, the extra $4k or so for aluminum is tempting. Not so much for weight, but I think for 1000-1200rwhp street car, the cooling is pretty big advantage.
Steering away from mast based off info I received.
My LSX has served me well, and may be reused. But going through this again, the extra $4k or so for aluminum is tempting. Not so much for weight, but I think for 1000-1200rwhp street car, the cooling is pretty big advantage.
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,310
Likes: 99
From: Arlington Texas
My build is using a Dart SHP block. The dart blocks take less machine work to get ready than the other being mentioned. I am also using a dart crank in my engine. I have seen lots of great info about it and its priced cheaper than some cranks that are not center counter weighted.
Last edited by silver408z; Mar 25, 2018 at 06:24 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,153
Likes: 114
Unreal, do you need an aftermarket block or could you use a resleved stock block? HPR off a stock bore but with a 4.25 stroke crank that might be an option and still give plenty of sleeve thickness. They offer the LSA block as well.
Guess you would loose the 6 bolt heads though.
Guess you would loose the 6 bolt heads though.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,342
Likes: 89
From: Maryland
Unreal, do you need an aftermarket block or could you use a resleved stock block? HPR off a stock bore but with a 4.25 stroke crank that might be an option and still give plenty of sleeve thickness. They offer the LSA block as well.
Guess you would loose the 6 bolt heads though.
Guess you would loose the 6 bolt heads though.
Unreal, sorry to hijack, but this thread is a great learning opportunity for most, especially since I'm looking into a build myself!
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,342
Likes: 89
From: Maryland
Everything I saw, and talking to a lot of people the 305s perform worse than the 285s, even in 1000-1200hp applications.
Steering away from mast based off info I received.
My LSX has served me well, and may be reused. But going through this again, the extra $4k or so for aluminum is tempting. Not so much for weight, but I think for 1000-1200rwhp street car, the cooling is pretty big advantage.
Steering away from mast based off info I received.
My LSX has served me well, and may be reused. But going through this again, the extra $4k or so for aluminum is tempting. Not so much for weight, but I think for 1000-1200rwhp street car, the cooling is pretty big advantage.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 24,035
Likes: 2,342
From: Gilbert AZ
Unreal, do you need an aftermarket block or could you use a resleved stock block? HPR off a stock bore but with a 4.25 stroke crank that might be an option and still give plenty of sleeve thickness. They offer the LSA block as well.
Guess you would loose the 6 bolt heads though.
Guess you would loose the 6 bolt heads though.
Current block comes out this weekend. Everyone that had seen it says it is fine. So options are just some 4.130 pistons in current block, new heads and cam and done, or lsr srtup.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 9,366
Likes: 969
From: Out back
Unreal...maybe a worth-wile investment would be a J&S Safeguard. It would've prevented your catastrophic failure from the tuning whoops. Best $600 you'll ever spend...especially when we're talking about $15-20K engines.
I can't post a link due to forum rules, but if you want to give it a look and discuss further, I'd be happy to PM you.
I can't post a link due to forum rules, but if you want to give it a look and discuss further, I'd be happy to PM you.