When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Just waiting on builder to get me a quote and list.
One thing is not sure how much of any I'll be reusing. I guess cost will dictate that.
It is tempting to just sleeve that one hole, throw some .005 over pistons in it, and put it back together as is, and not be dumb with tune again and enjoy another 30k+
Just waiting on builder to get me a quote and list.
One thing is not sure how much of any I'll be reusing. I guess cost will dictate that.
It is tempting to just sleeve that one hole, throw some .005 over pistons in it, and put it back together as is, and not be dumb with tune again and enjoy another 30k+
Yeah, 30k miles out of a build making that kind of power is pretty damn impressive.
So, you don’t think it’s worth it to switch to a LLSR cam on the new setup?
Been interesting. Talking to a lot of people, they say LLSR is just a marketing gimmick, and the cost/maintence/etc for something that isn't a race car, and won't see 8k+ is not even close to worth it. The adjustments, and more importantly valve spring life and cost, compared to a nice hydralic that will do 7500 all day long with no issues.
Was looking at block again, and I'm about 50/50% if it even has a crack. There is a mark, but it is very subtle, and maybe the motor is fine as is besides needing some new pistons. I couldn't get an engine crane this weekend, so that will have to wait.
assuming you havent considered the dart LSnext just for price? oiling and main strength on those is quite the upgrade over the other set ups if your planning on keeping for long term plus you have headroom to take it out past 4.125 comfortably
Looked at the LSnext in Iron, but don't really like the oil pan situation, and how stuff mounts for a full street car.
The LSR blocks are good.
Talking with a few very well known builders, and they all think my current block is fine based off what they can see. So that throws a potential wrench in it, if it just needs to be punch .005 over and new pistons.
Can you link me? Everything I see the motor would have to be together, or pressurized. Plus not leaking while sitting and when warm and 800+psi of combustion pressure is two different things.
Can you link me? Everything I see the motor would have to be together, or pressurized. Plus not leaking while sitting and when warm and 800+psi of combustion pressure is two different things.
process used to check welds do not have to be pressurized and will show any cracks.the equipment used is quite compact and you may be able to rent.check welding inspection firms.they are mobile and will come to your site
Yah, last event. Popped headgasket 3rd run, had a wild slow down with coolant spraying all over tires.
Arizona is actually e54, and was only on e63 when racing. I did some dumb stuff like that and I'm paying for it. I wish we still had real e85.
Not sure what is meant by could do a X block. You mean just like I had for the past 6+ years and 30k+ miles? If I was going to do an LSX block, I would just have the one I have now sleeved to fix the one cracked cylinder and move on.
No actually....
GM Powertrain XX038976AA......internally referred to as an X block
Exotic aluminum alloy block produced by Schwartz machine for GM....ships with A1 tool steel main and head studs. Short of a non water jacket block the strongest aluminum LS block....at least as far as GM endurance testing goes.
It is tempting to just sleeve that one hole, throw some .005 over pistons in it, and put it back together as is, and not be dumb with tune again and enjoy another 30k+
That's what I'd do if it were mine.. cylinder really doesn't look cracked to me but machine shop will obviously be able to tell for sure
That's what I'd do if it were mine.. cylinder really doesn't look cracked to me but machine shop will obviously be able to tell for sure
Yah, everyone that looked at it so far says same thing. May have jumped to conclusions just because of one little mark. All the cracks I can find on LS motors are vertical and fairly obvious. Not a little 1/2" completely straight mark.
Leaning towards the BP BR 7 BS 285 Brodix heads with Ti intakes/inconel exhaust.
Not sure if the copper seats are good for street use. Also trying to find a place that actually does these heads. They are setup for big spring and shaft rockers. Need the special crower set and they run a 1.65" spring which is nice.