Originally Posted by jenavet

I also have the holley 553-106 dash and to be honest im not very impressed.I was hoping i would have the ability to make crucial changes to my ecu in the lanes through the touch screen but i cant and have to go through a laptop.
Im running an F1X procharger so with the turbo you may use boost control to managa power vs timing?

Originally Posted by truggiero19

Can you put a switch on the 7" display for different timing maps like you can on the pro dashes?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KARL...evinvanderhoof

Originally Posted by C5 Pete

This right here…

Also, fwiw, there are multiple options for a solid axle conversion. The easiest - no fab - bolt in product is the Moser setup. It is a torque arm type setup and, as such, has limited adjustability. The pros are ease of installation. The negatives are by the time you get done specing it out to the way you’d like it, it’ll cost more than a traditional 4-link/9” setup.

I, and a friend, each got the Pro-500 CM 4-link from S and W Race cars, and welded it in. It’s a great setup and very customizable.

Originally Posted by jenavet

i dont think you need to tear out the IRS and go with 4 link/9 inch stuff.you can get the irs to work.

Originally Posted by Pb82 Ronin

One has to FIND their limit of traction before building the car around that number. .

Originally Posted by skydaman

I looked into the Moser setup and like you said the cost, and it looks a bit clunky, heavier than needed and most of us dont want or need to retain the stock spring. Your setup is sweet!!




You can certainly get IRS to work, sometimes, on a perfect day, with perfect track prep, with stacks of money into them. At the end of the day you are still left with a weaker diff in a stock case that weighs more and axles that can break at any time. The majority of the time spent driving the car outside of the track on marginal surfaces on the street the 9" setup works worlds better. Besides the suspension part, when I looked for a trans that would last, very few are on the market for stock location mounting and they are very expensive.



Or you can build a car around a tire that allows you to use your power, can fit a 31x16.50-15 now since ditching the IRS.

Originally Posted by jenavet

i guess i should ask what power you are running and what 60 foot..330..1\8 and 1/4 et and mph so im comparing apples to apples. ive got the rpm powerglide,rear 3.42 diff and the best dss axle and hub set up with a 15 inch conversion and the 275/60/15 mt radial pro

Originally Posted by jenavet

Just my few cents from someone who has capped rwhp at 1200 this season just to get the car dialed in..ive got another 300rwhp in the bank..but not going there till i got this 100percent.

I have learned no matter what you have for horsepower you need a suspension thats going to apply this power to the ground,otherwise its all useless.Put some thought and money into making the chassis work.The problem i had at the start of this season was the car was flat going down the track...absolutely no weight transfer.I ended up detuning the car substantially just to make it down the track.Ive got the JRI double adjustable shocks all the way around with hypertech springs.my rear shocks i was able to get the rebound and compression in the ball park but the fronts where way off...i ended up sending the fronts to jj furillo and we revalved them and set the shocks to raise up very quickly but drop back down slowly. This weekend this car launched absolutely beautifull.so i dont think you need to tear out the IRS and go with 4 link/9 inch stuff.you can get the irs to work.

Second the holley dominator system is a good way to go and very tuneable....i was able to get this car to work by controlling 2 step launch...shift rpm..and then the timing map.I looked at the increments on my time slip and was able to pull and add timing at certain intervals that just made this thing come alive. I also have the holley 553-106 dash and to be honest im not very impressed.I was hoping i would have the ability to make crucial changes to my ecu in the lanes through the touch screen but i cant and have to go through a laptop.
Im running an F1X procharger so with the turbo you may use boost control to managa power vs timing?

anyways just some minor tips from someone who is currently racing your targeted hp lol

Originally Posted by jayyyw

My last build made 1500+whp and I was able to put all of it down, on the street, with only a mix of stock suspension pieces. I was running base model shocks and a Z51 rear leaf spring. Front suspension was bone stock, 48k miles. Trust me... I'm not just throwing random numbers out there.

I love the Vette platform but I hate the drivetrain. I'm not going to pay $15k plus for a proprietary powerglide setup. I've broken enough drivetrain parts.

I ran the Holley Terminator with the 7" dash and loved the dash. It was super easy to setup and the display was big enough to see everything I needed to see. I've seen the 6.86" dash in person and while it is a gorgeous display, it's pretty small. You should be able to mess with certain things in the tune with the 7" dash. I'd rather hook the laptop up to make changes either way.

Originally Posted by jenavet

i can see meekly driving 1500+whp around on the street...but applying that power efficiently to a dragstrip with those components had to have been real ugly

Originally Posted by jayyyw

My last build made 1500+whp and I was able to put all of it down, on the street, with only a mix of stock suspension pieces. I was running base model shocks and a Z51 rear leaf spring. Front suspension was bone stock, 48k miles. Trust me... I'm not just throwing random numbers out there.

I love the Vette platform but I hate the drivetrain. I'm not going to pay $15k plus for a proprietary powerglide setup. I've broken enough drivetrain parts.

I ran the Holley Terminator with the 7" dash and loved the dash. It was super easy to setup and the display was big enough to see everything I needed to see. I've seen the 6.86" dash in person and while it is a gorgeous display, it's pretty small. You should be able to mess with certain things in the tune with the 7" dash. I'd rather hook the laptop up to make changes either way.

Originally Posted by skydaman

Agree, like the car but not the fangled up rear trans and overpriced parts. The more "universal" you make the car the cheaper and more reliable it becomes.

It's only .14" difference (that's what she said! ) It's nice the warning lights don't take up screen real estate on the 6.86. But yes you can toggle virtual switches on either dash! I use the motion raceworks steering shaft mount for my screen, works out nice.

Originally Posted by jenavet

i think im getting it now!!
im getting the picture now!! you guys want the power but not the correct parts to support the power!! the words cheaper and universal do not belong in a 1200 to 1500 horsepower buld!! i have all the "OVERpriced" parts and my 1200hp build and guess what..it dosent break!!!!

Originally Posted by skydaman

Making things less vehicle specific aka universal is exactly what every proper race car does, it not only makes things easier to work on but it often works out to be cheaper. Take for example the difference between a "universal" front mount glide built for 1500+hp that costs 1/3 to 1/4 what it does for a rear mount install and we aren't locked into one or two brands or proprietary parts. Same can be said for a "universal" 9 inch differential rated for 2000+hp that can be rebuilt with hand tools and is many times cheaper than a vehicle specific diff that few shops have the tools to rebuild. List goes on and on but you should get the point that making things universal doesn't mean they can't handle 1200 or 1500hp when in fact they can handle a good bit more and not fetch a premium. It's about spending money in the right places and for the right reasons vs just spending a premium for something that bolts on, some would call it hot rodding vs cruising around with boltons.

PS I think you just jinxed yourself. Never say it doesn't break!

Originally Posted by jenavet

i think im getting it now!!
im getting the picture now!! you guys want the power but not the correct parts to support the power!! the words cheaper and universal do not belong in a 1200 to 1500 horsepower buld!! i have all the "OVERpriced" parts in my 1200hp build and guess what..it dosent break!!!!

Originally Posted by VVVROOMTX

In your experience, what's the total cost of buying, prepping and assembling a strong 5.3 to reliably make 1000rwhp? Are you going 5.3 just for ease of procurement and cheaper? Any specific parts you recommend or addons to make it live?

Originally Posted by jayyyw

Many people have ran bone stock, untouched short blocks at that power level. Some ARP head studs and LS9 gaskets and send it.

If you wanted, Summit sells a drop-in piston/rod set that will handle that HP all day long. ARP head studs and LS9 head gaskets. Your choice of cam, BTR .685 springs, melling high volume/pressure oil pump and don't be afraid to spin it to 8000rpm.

I chose the 5.3 because it's cheaper to build. The blocks are plenty strong and don't need to be sleeved. That saves ~$2000 right from the start. The stock cranks can handle 1500+ whp. Can make the same power as the big CI builds, just need to run a little more boost. They produce a little less torque down low and that helps with traction issues.

All these big 427+ci blower builds that make 1000-1100-1200whp that run low 5s 60-130mph because they can't get traction. Not sure what the fascination is with the big CI stuff if you can't get it to hook up. Just bragging rights, I guess.

Originally Posted by skydaman

True! SBE 5.3 setups will hold 1000 for quite some time, I beat the **** out of mine and it still lasted over a year and a half, eventually wrinkled a rod but I wasnt mad at all as I was trying to kill it and it was awesome for a $500 engine.

Boosted strokers running 5's is embarrasing, rod/piston 5.3's have been well into the 3.x 60-130 range. Bang for the buck is enormous and I think the smaller CI lack of low end torque helps.

Originally Posted by jenavet

i think im getting it now!!
im getting the picture now!! you guys want the power but not the correct parts to support the power!! the words cheaper and universal do not belong in a 1200 to 1500 horsepower buld!! i have all the "OVERpriced" parts in my 1200hp build and guess what..it dosent break!!!!

Originally Posted by jayyyw

Many people have ran bone stock, untouched short blocks at that power level. Some ARP head studs and LS9 gaskets and send it.

If you wanted, Summit sells a drop-in piston/rod set that will handle that HP all day long. ARP head studs and LS9 head gaskets. Your choice of cam, BTR .685 springs, melling high volume/pressure oil pump and don't be afraid to spin it to 8000rpm.

I chose the 5.3 because it's cheaper to build. The blocks are plenty strong and don't need to be sleeved. That saves ~$2000 right from the start. The stock cranks can handle 1500+ whp. Can make the same power as the big CI builds, just need to run a little more boost. They produce a little less torque down low and that helps with traction issues.

All these big 427+ci blower builds that make 1000-1100-1200whp that run low 5s 60-130mph because they can't get traction. Not sure what the fascination is with the big CI stuff if you can't get it to hook up. Just bragging rights, I guess.