New car. New build. New thread.

Many of you followed my previous journey; transforming my '08 Z06 from a semi-budget SBE 5.3 single turbo car that made 1050whp, to a wild built 5.3 TT animal that made over 1500whp(est).

I ended up parting that build out and selling the roller to take a step back, purchase a house, and pursue other things for a little while....

Wellllll........ That didn't last long. I ended up purchasing an '05 base roller, from a buddy of mine, earlier this year. It sat in storage for a while, waiting until
we finally got moved over to our house. Now that that's out of the way, it's time to start working on this new build.

This one is going to get a little more wild than the last one.

The basic run down is...

Engine:
Aluminum 5.3 - Stock block/sleeves
Molnar crank
3.800" Wiseco pistons
Molnar Power Adder rods
ARP 1/2" studs and main bolts
BTR Stage 3 TT cam
BTR .680 spring kit
Promaxx 240cc rectangular heads
Builder's custom headgaskets
BTR Trinity Intake

Power Adder:
Custom TT kit that I plan to build
Xona Rotor 115-69S turbos
Shrear Fab or NCC A2W intercooler

Other:
Holley Dominator
Holley 7" dash
Engine mounted powerglide with transbrake
8.8 or 9" solid rear axle
Aeromotive 7gpm brushless pump

Definitely a lot of little odds and ends that will be scattered in there. Everything but the engine/engine management is subject to change until it's mounted in it's final resting place.

I won't be doing another build like this, so I plan to go as wild as my wallet will allow me too. I don't have any ultimate power goals. I will run as much as I can, traction willing, depending on what I am doing with the car. Trying to travel to events with the car, maybe a drag week or something. Really, just enjoy it once it's done. Hopefully it doesn't break as much as the last setup.

Sit back and enjoy. Progress won't be very fast. I'm in no rush to complete it but I am shooting for this time next year.

 

I know you’ve broken a ****-ton of parts over the years. I have too.

I’ve never felt more confident in my drive train than I do now that I have a T400/4-link/9” setup.

Best of success to you!

 

Oh definitely. It got to the point where I was breaking something every time I took it out. Got old real fast.

ive been following your build since the beginning. Anxious to see it completed.

 

 

Few suggestions:

Are you replacing the valves in the promax heads? Some people had issues with dropping valves.

I would recommend the Holley 6.86 pro dash over the 7" screen, its worlds better, comes with GPS speedo, etc.

Tin Soldier Racecars makes a nice A2W IC for a good bit less than others, uses a CSF core that performs very well, IAT's drop even when I don't have the pump on! (they also make nice 8.8 and 9" parts)

Seriously it really does get old, every mafckknnn time!!!! And people want a million $$ for built IRS crap that still breaks, even the "Ultimate Drag Race Trans" broke in a handful of passes GTFO!


I agree, glide/triangulated 4-link (although debating going to traditional)/9" here

 

 

Plus 1 for the 6.86 dash

 

That's the first I've heard of the valve issue. I will bring it up to my engine builder. I know the exhaust valve is getting swapped to a 1.58 head instead of the 1.60, to fit in the bore. Thank for the heads up.

I prefer the look and size of the 7" screen.

I'll look at what they have. I want to put it into a certain spot. The Shrear may be a little too wide but I prefer the Garrett cores that they use. NCC has a stubby one that would work perfect where I want it. Both about the same price.

I was thinking for getting 2 of the smaller 1200hp ones from Frozen Boost and putting them under the dash, similar to what you did before.

Any and all suggestions welcome and are much appreciated.

 

Sub'd

 

This is gonna be good

 

Just a few pics of what I have so far and how the car currently sits.

 

What is the reason to tear the interior out???

 

Probably to cut the tunnel for front transmission install. Cant wait to see that. lol

 

No worries. After having data on Garrett, Bell, CSF, and china cores makes for a difficult decision where to spend the money. I had a shearer previously before the frozen boost units.

Weight I would assume, I lost a TON of weight out of the interior. Plus the 9" swap dropped another 200+lbs.

To do it again I may have used an air hammer more vs cutting as much, I probably over trimmed for mine. NIce part is now I can fill trans and connect trans cooler lines from the passenger footwell. Drivers side made adjusting the shifter super and hooking up trans brake super easy.

 

This right here…

Also, fwiw, there are multiple options for a solid axle conversion. The easiest - no fab - bolt in product is the Moser setup. It is a torque arm type setup and, as such, has limited adjustability. The pros are ease of installation. The negatives are by the time you get done specing it out to the way you’d like it, it’ll cost more than a traditional 4-link/9” setup.

I, and a friend, each got the Pro-500 CM 4-link from S and W Race cars, and welded it in. It’s a great setup and very customizable.

 

Most definitely because of weight. Trying to get it as light as possible.

 

I don't think the Moser setup works with the C6. I haven't actually called them up to ask but I saw a post that said Moser won't sell you the kit if you are trying to put it in a C6. Unless something has changed since then.

 

I don’t see why it wouldn’t. It bolts into the same locations that the cradle bolts to. The torque arm bolts to the flange from the tunnel plate. Those dimensions are the same C5/C6.

 

Just my few cents from someone who has capped rwhp at 1200 this season just to get the car dialed in..ive got another 300rwhp in the bank..but not going there till i got this 100percent.

I have learned no matter what you have for horsepower you need a suspension thats going to apply this power to the ground,otherwise its all useless.Put some thought and money into making the chassis work.The problem i had at the start of this season was the car was flat going down the track...absolutely no weight transfer.I ended up detuning the car substantially just to make it down the track.Ive got the JRI double adjustable shocks all the way around with hypertech springs.my rear shocks i was able to get the rebound and compression in the ball park but the fronts where way off...i ended up sending the fronts to jj furillo and we revalved them and set the shocks to raise up very quickly but drop back down slowly. This weekend this car launched absolutely beautifull.so i dont think you need to tear out the IRS and go with 4 link/9 inch stuff.you can get the irs to work.

Second the holley dominator system is a good way to go and very tuneable....i was able to get this car to work by controlling 2 step launch...shift rpm..and then the timing map.I looked at the increments on my time slip and was able to pull and add timing at certain intervals that just made this thing come alive. I also have the holley 553-106 dash and to be honest im not very impressed.I was hoping i would have the ability to make crucial changes to my ecu in the lanes through the touch screen but i cant and have to go through a laptop.
Im running an F1X procharger so with the turbo you may use boost control to managa power vs timing?

anyways just some minor tips from someone who is currently racing your targeted hp lol

 

MONEY statement if there ever was one. One has to FIND their limit of traction before building the car around that number. In my Cobra...it was about 755rw with "normal" tires. In my Corvette's...it's been 560-570 rw with "normal" tires. Much beyond that, it'll cost you BIG to play the game.