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Old Oct 20, 2021 | 10:00 PM
  #81  
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Originally Posted by skydaman
If you are looking for more weight the trunk latch weighs in at 7.5lbs. I realized I forgot my key when I pulled up at the gas station recently, inspired me to rip that thing out and install quick latches on the deck lid.
Oh yeah, that's gone too. Felt heavier than that. My had the motor that pulls it down if you close it gently. Not sure if yours was the same. I'm going to install pins.

Originally Posted by schpenxel
Poor poor block it doesn't even know what's coming
I asked IG to pray for it when I posted it on my stories. LOL
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Old Oct 20, 2021 | 10:01 PM
  #82  
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Originally Posted by helga203
That is beyond excellent work.
Thank you! It works. I'm happy about that. lol.
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Old Oct 22, 2021 | 04:49 PM
  #83  
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Originally Posted by jayyyw
Thank you! Yes, Jon is building this motor as well. I won't have anyone else build one for me as long as he is still pumping them out.
I talked to him a little bit about your old setup. Ty in SA is a good buddy of mine and I know Jon built his motor also. So the consensus is for him to build mine as well haha so I’m letting him have at it.
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Old Oct 22, 2021 | 08:39 PM
  #84  
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Originally Posted by GAMEOVR
I talked to him a little bit about your old setup. Ty in SA is a good buddy of mine and I know Jon built his motor also. So the consensus is for him to build mine as well haha so I’m letting him have at it.
You won't be disappointed. Jon is very meticulous and a big reason why I chose him. His prices are very fair for the quality of work he pumps out.
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Old Oct 26, 2021 | 04:06 PM
  #85  
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Love the build. Pulling the interior out of a car to turn it more race car-ish is one of my favorite things to do haha. It's like everything that you take out is making the car faster in your garage just sitting there.
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Old Oct 27, 2021 | 09:26 PM
  #86  
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Originally Posted by Esser
Love the build. Pulling the interior out of a car to turn it more race car-ish is one of my favorite things to do haha. It's like everything that you take out is making the car faster in your garage just sitting there.
I don't care much about the whole, "full interior street car blah blah blah". To me, that's just an excuse when you lose. Rather do everything I can to make it as fast as I can and if I still lost, well... I just didn't have enough. I love the whole "racecar" interior stuff. Different strokes for different folks.
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Old Oct 28, 2021 | 09:01 PM
  #87  
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Originally Posted by jayyyw
Yessir. My SBE had a hard life before I even got my hands on it. Only reason it threw a rod was because of a failing alternator which caused a fueling delivery issue. Would likely still be running, or at the very least, lasted a great deal longer.

I Want to help you prevent this type of failure in the future forevermore.

As a RULE I never tune wide open throttle fuel delivery with alternator output added into the equation because of the type of failure you describe is well known among professional tuners and easily avoided.
Alternators are not reliable source of DC voltage at wide open throttle due to the myriad noise signals being produced and should be shut-down for WOT on typical, reliable street cars, as shown here:



Notice near WOT TPS the target DC voltage is near battery baseline, approx 12.5V, this is the default setting for many Stand-alone ECU for this feature.

This allows all electrical devices during WOT to function reliably and eliminates the chances of alternator failure having any impact on your fuel delivery or other systems.
This is how all reliable setups are/should be tuned to avoid catastrophic engine failure due to wonky alternator behavior and eliminates the alternator as a source of failure and frustration.

If the vehicle does not have the fuel delivery capability at 11.5v or near 12.0v then the fuel pump needs to be upgraded. It should not be 'squeezed' for extra flow by raising voltage as you have discovered this is not a reliable method and will eventually lead to heart break.

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Old Nov 3, 2021 | 09:07 PM
  #88  
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^blocked. finally.
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Old Nov 3, 2021 | 10:16 PM
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Old Nov 4, 2021 | 12:03 AM
  #90  
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Yes it is difficult to accept the truth and responsibility. If any of my friends engines blew up because of an alternator failure it would be MY fault because it is the car-consultants (tuner's) job to explain how to build and inspect a reliable vehicle and explore every possibility of failure, this is no exception, it is a well known feature.

It is a well known feature for stand-alone ECU and factory ECU calibrations across multiple platforms, bear witness to the truth in plain writing

For example, as Stand-alone feature:
When I go TPS >90%, the voltage drops to the pre-programmed WOT-value (in this case 12.6V).
https://www.msextra.com/forums/viewt...oltage#p449708

As Factory Default:
A lot of Terminators will see lower than expected voltage at WOT due to the fact Ford reduces the alt's output at WOT to reduce engine load
https://www.svtperformance.com/threa.../post-10107773

A Well known tuning paradigm effort:
The Marauder is one of the few Ford vehicles that came from the factory with the ability to shut off the Alternator at WOT, but Ford choose not to take advantage of. By shutting off the alternator at WOT we found this alone to be worth 4-5 RWHP with no adverse affects on the vehicle.
http://alternativeauto.com/Marauder_Tune/


It is a 'secret' of high performance reliability strategy. Truth is often stranger than fiction.

The computer could be killing the field control to make more power above a certain rpm. Ford has had some clibrations like that I think.
https://forum.hptuners.com/showthrea...l=1#post189074

There are whispers across every forum about such ideas,

Indeed, its a design feature of the ecu. The ecu tells the alternator how much excitation field to apply to the alternator. At high rpms, the need to maintain battery voltage isnt really needed because WOT is only a few seconds. The ecu dumps the alternator and you lose the CEMF (counter torque caused by electrical loads inside the car's electrical system) developed inside the alternator, thus freeing HP and torque for the drive train. The A/C does the same thing, above ~5000ish rpm the ecu dumps the a/c compressor... Yep!
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ec...ml#post7221311


Since the 60's people have been turning off their alternators for a couple HP. But that is not what this is about. I don't care about the load or power, I care about reliability and stability. The computer is depending on a stable voltage for many reasons, for example it calculates injector open and close rates based on voltage and pressure. If we connect an oscilloscope to an alternator under load at 6000rpm the signal output wave form is anything but stable and steady. No matter how good the rectifiers and diodes are there is always noise and the chance of failure at random. Thus, depending on the alternator at WOT is NEVER an option. You can't justify an engine failure due to alternator failure- I don't care what kind of car, that is unacceptable because they tend to fail whenever they feel like. Random chance is NOT supposed to be part of the equation.

To properly tune a 1200rwhp Setup for daily driver reliability you must:
Rule #1. Ensure the fuel pump(s) can supply fuel for max power output with only 12.0~ volts supply

This rule ensures in the face of alternator failure there will still be plenty of fuel to complete the run... Since no human can react quick enough to such a sudden drop in voltage... there is no warning light... no safety protocol available... It is unheard of

I rest my case?
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Old Nov 4, 2021 | 09:56 PM
  #91  
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He’s on my ignore list so I didn’t miss much
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Old Nov 6, 2021 | 10:15 PM
  #92  
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It's hilarious, I have literally ONE person on this forum blocked... and it appears I'm not the only one
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Old Nov 11, 2021 | 08:42 PM
  #93  
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The engine is done. Just waiting on pushrods. I'll post some pics a little later.
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Old Nov 11, 2021 | 10:42 PM
  #94  
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Saw the engine pic on IG. Hubba hubba…
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Old Nov 11, 2021 | 10:57 PM
  #95  
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Originally Posted by C5 Pete
Saw the engine pic on IG. Hubba hubba…
Almost makes me want to turn it into a table, lol. Looks so good.
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Old Nov 12, 2021 | 02:23 AM
  #96  
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Originally Posted by jayyyw
Almost makes me want to turn it into a table, lol. Looks so good.
saw it on IG as well! Looking awesome. Did you have to go up to a 3.90 bore for the heads? I came across a thread where Jon said that he can order them with different valves to clear the 3.78 bore.
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Old Nov 12, 2021 | 02:27 AM
  #97  
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Originally Posted by Almost_There_1
saw it on IG as well! Looking awesome. Did you have to go up to a 3.90 bore for the heads? I came across a thread where Jon said that he can order them with different valves to clear the 3.78 bore.
Its 3.800”. He used a 1.58” exhaust valve.
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Old Nov 12, 2021 | 02:30 AM
  #98  
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Old Nov 12, 2021 | 08:25 AM
  #99  
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Hell yes!! Motor looks great. Those Pro Max heads are LEGIT. Hard to beat for the money also. How far are your push rods out?
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Old Nov 12, 2021 | 08:13 PM
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Originally Posted by GAMEOVR
Hell yes!! Motor looks great. Those Pro Max heads are LEGIT. Hard to beat for the money also. How far are your push rods out?
Not 100%. I just know he ordered them already. Didn't give me an ETA.
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