Is there any reason I can't or shouldn't use PVC pipe for intercooler tubing?

 

Well, you technically can and people have… but, I wouldn’t. One, you’ll probably get made fun of lol, if that matters. And two, it’s not made to withstand engine bay temperatures. Sure it may be fine as IC piping but as you get closer to hot areas it may begin melting. PVC (polyvinyl chloride) releases a toxic gas, phosgene, in certain conditions when exposed to heat like that. Phosgene was used as a chemical agent by the military due to its ability to cause “dry drowning”, the gas causes you to suffocate.

Its very rare for this to happen, and tons of people get away with it, you should just know the risks involved when you could just as easily order a generic IC pipe set off amazon for $100.

 

What I'm looking to do is route it in a way it doesn't see excessive heat.

 

Because you can buy aluminum tubing kits that have 45 and 90 degree bends for cheap and a bead roller as well as any silicon couplers you need.

Even if you can't weld the piping yourself, you can cut everything then bring to a shop and have stuff welded.

Maybe use some PVC piping for fitting and mock up.

 

I like this question

Poly vonyl chloride... when it gets hot corrosive chlorine-related components will likely leech into the air.
Lets see, Forced induction head units produce fluid in the neighborhood of 280*F to 340*F to 420*F, regularly, this is completely normal for 600-1200rwhp dynojet setups at street-sized forced induction application, typical fuels E10-E80.

At that temperature, the PVC will likely thermal decompose, *checks list* producing such things as,
CO, HCl (hydrochloride acid), vinyl chloride C2H3Cl and such, I can see that, COCl2 'phosgene' extremely toxic, Polyene sequences of carbon chains, and apparently Dioxans, Furans, even benzene, and lead from additives, which I assume are sometimes used to help make PVC the way it is. I'm just looking lists of whats normally in PVC and what reactions with oxygen at around ~350*F will commit.

Recommend: Don't use PVC.
Instead,
Use only aluminum tube and straight couplers. Avoid bent couplers and non-aluminum tubes.
Hose clamps are fine. Use a shortest straight coupler and two hose clamps with bead rolls on either end for ideal daily driver accessibility/sealing.
Pressure test when finished, find and fix all boost leaks.
Boost leaking costs power, and in turbo applications leads to high EGT/EGP which results with engine destruction at worst, lost power at best.

 

are you trolling?!