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Removing screen on intake install

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Old Nov 10, 2005 | 10:16 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Jim Hall
My guess. Lean codes, bank 1 and bank 2.

Buy a new MAF sensor with the screen in. Once it is removed, you cannot reinstall it.
that is correct, however, you can add a screen or screens to the duct. Different screens will flow different amounts. You will also need one strong enough so it won't flex or change shape in any way. When using your 'own' screen you are trying to create a highflow laminar stream(s).
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Old Nov 10, 2005 | 10:22 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by 05_C6Z51
Question for the guys thrwoing codes. Is the light coming on for about three engine cycles then going off again?
prolly not, chances are it is also being set as a pending code.
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Old Nov 10, 2005 | 10:26 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Need4Speed05
well see i removed my screen and why wouldnt it throw codes because the computer prolly isnt registering the amount of air coming through but i just know that within 2 miles it came on but i am going to take it into the dearlership and have it checked out...

hehehe, that's why they reset the computer (err.. disconnect that battery) when they install. Oh, unless you did disconnect your battery, in that case it may be the "bellows". i found it tough to see the bottom of the throttle body to make sure the bellows was connected correctly. any leak in the system will trip the code.
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Old Nov 10, 2005 | 11:07 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by 05_C6Z51
I removed my screen and I AM thrwoing codes. The codes reset after three cycles. I'm going to take the advice in this thread and rotate the MAF 90 degrees and see if that helps. (Note: I'm using the stinger but it did not cause the codes.)
Don't forget. Anytime you make an airflow change you will need to drive 50-100-200 miles before you notice any change that would be from the mod. Performance can actually be crappy for awhile until the computer adjusts (relearns). Apparently, there is a re-learn procedure for the car but I've found it easier to just drive it around for a full tanks of gas. Although, if a mod results in it running so crappy it won't stay running, well then, bad mod. go back.
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Old Nov 10, 2005 | 11:23 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by Jim Hall
No screen and no integrated MAF. The new MAF sensor is the Hitachi Probe MAF sensor.
The part numbers I just read off both my C5 and C6 are both 25318411 from the MAF itself. Both MAF's are the same so I assume you are talking about the Z06.
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Old Nov 14, 2005 | 10:19 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by 05_C6Z51
I removed my screen and I AM thrwoing codes. The codes reset after three cycles. I'm going to take the advice in this thread and rotate the MAF 90 degrees and see if that helps. (Note: I'm using the stinger but it did not cause the codes.)
any feedback/update re: results of rotating the maf ?
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Old Nov 14, 2005 | 12:27 PM
  #47  
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Default MAF Screen!

If you take into consideration that the stock MAF with screen flows, over 850 CFM from the factory, you will see its a waste of time unless you have rebuilt your motor to race specs and added big heads and cam.

Just marketing hype! Ask any real F body racer!

AK
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Old Nov 30, 2005 | 09:27 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by Zig
As I've pointed out before, but at this time am unable to prove, the alignment of the maf has, IMO, alot to do with turbulance. If you've noticed, the maf has an air diffusor integrated into it. The stock alignment of the maf has the diffusor aligned in a vertical position while the throttle body butterfly opens in a horizontal fashion. IMO, aligning the two will reduce the potential for turbulance in the system. By rotating the MAF so the diffusor corresponds with the throttle body air is allowed to pass directly into the intake without any resistance, airflow no longer gets backed up in the system with the side effect of turbulance and 'funky' readings of flow by the maf. IMO, positioning the MAF diffusor so it directs air into the openings of the throttle body as the butterfly opens is the easiest most cost effective mod. for airflow.

then again, i'm not in a position to verify this, since i've also done other mods at the same time but these are my thoughts.

I also believe the stock maf when positioned properly will deliever better airflow performance than a maf without the diffusor. The diffusor actually helps direct the airflow while one without the diffusor simply passes air without any directional assistance. IMO, anytime you can can help direct air where you want it, you will notice better flow than if you simply let air find it's own path.

Zig,
I agree with your theory here. Yesterday I rotated my MAF 90 degrees so that the diffuser is now horizontal and aligned with the throttle body butterfly valve. So far I am VERY impressed with the way my car is running. I would not be surprised if it's making more power. What is up with today's engineers? The diffuser and the Throttle body butterfly valve should be aligned to minimize turbulence.
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Old Dec 1, 2005 | 06:56 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by KGB6
Zig,
I agree with your theory here. Yesterday I rotated my MAF 90 degrees so that the diffuser is now horizontal and aligned with the throttle body butterfly valve. So far I am VERY impressed with the way my car is running. I would not be surprised if it's making more power. What is up with today's engineers? The diffuser and the Throttle body butterfly valve should be aligned to minimize turbulence.
can you elaborate ? do you still feel a difference ? is it pronounced at a certain point ? how does it feel when you gradually open the throttle ?

Last edited by Zig; Dec 1, 2005 at 02:23 PM.
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Old Dec 1, 2005 | 12:29 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by Zig
can you elaborate ? do you still feel a differance ? is it pronounced at a certain point ? how does it feel when you gradually open the throttle ?
Yes, there's a difference: I have to worry more about wheel spin. I'm experiencing it more at part throttle now (traction events seems to come up on the DIC more frequently) and acceleration is more immediate.

But I'm going to give the car a week or two and let things settle before I say whether or not this is worth doing. My initial impression, though, is it feels very promising. Hopefully the PCM doesn't tune away the improvement.
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Old Dec 1, 2005 | 02:38 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by KGB6
Yes, there's a difference: I have to worry more about wheel spin. I'm experiencing it more at part throttle now (traction events seems to come up on the DIC more frequently) and acceleration is more immediate.

But I'm going to give the car a week or two and let things settle before I say whether or not this is worth doing. My initial impression, though, is it feels very promising. Hopefully the PCM doesn't tune away the improvement.
a quick test to prove if there is any immediate change that can be attributed to the mod. is to drive it a awhile one way then put it back, drive it a bit, change it again, drive it a bit. any change (good/bad) ? true, that won't show how it's gonna react in the long term. i suspect the pcm won't program it out. if the pcm is using an algorithm then i think the pcm should love it. if the pcm is using hard coded figures then it would probably need a tune.

what other mods. do you have ? you're breaking it loose at part throttle while in motion in gear ??

Last edited by Zig; Dec 1, 2005 at 02:43 PM.
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Old Dec 1, 2005 | 04:28 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by Zig
a quick test to prove if there is any immediate change that can be attributed to the mod. is to drive it a awhile one way then put it back, drive it a bit, change it again, drive it a bit. any change (good/bad) ? true, that won't show how it's gonna react in the long term. i suspect the pcm won't program it out. if the pcm is using an algorithm then i think the pcm should love it. if the pcm is using hard coded figures then it would probably need a tune.

what other mods. do you have ? you're breaking it loose at part throttle while in motion in gear ??
I'm convinced there is a change.... I'm just afraid the PCM will tune it away. Today it's in the 50s and sunny and I'm noticing wheel spin on surfaces, that I normally travel, at part throttle--full throttle will cause a spinout I'm sure. The engine also sounds and feels crisp in the cooler temps and is running much stronger than before. ...and i have no mods yet and I'm breaking loose while in motion. I'm also aware as temps drop the road surfcace becomes cool and the Z51 tires do not hook-up as well and will more readily spin.

Last edited by KGB6; Dec 1, 2005 at 04:40 PM.
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Old Dec 2, 2005 | 09:09 AM
  #53  
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I agree with the guy about removing the screen and rotating the MAF. As it turns out, I was one of the few that did throw codes anyway. Instead of buying a new MAF, I decided to purchase one of those "Tornado" inserts to help straighten the airflow. Who knows if it really swirls or not.

Anyway, since the Tornado install, it runs great.
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Old Dec 11, 2005 | 08:13 PM
  #54  
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Default MAF Diffuser Rotated 90 degrees

Originally Posted by KGB6
Yes, there's a difference: I have to worry more about wheel spin. I'm experiencing it more at part throttle now (traction events seems to come up on the DIC more frequently) and acceleration is more immediate.

But I'm going to give the car a week or two and let things settle before I say whether or not this is worth doing. My initial impression, though, is it feels very promising. Hopefully the PCM doesn't tune away the improvement.
OK. I have lived with this MAF adjustment for nearly to weeks now and can honestly say it was worth doing. The additional quickness and responsiveness remains.

Guys/Gals: give this a shoot. I don't think you’ll be disappointed.
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Old Dec 11, 2005 | 08:34 PM
  #55  
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Blackwig & screen out - codes. Blackwig & screen in - no codes. It can be re-installed if it was removed carefully.
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Old Dec 11, 2005 | 09:39 PM
  #56  
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Air cleaners, headers, cam, fast intake manifold, ported heads, NO screen, ported TB, and tuned....no codes.


Soon no MAF
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Old Dec 12, 2005 | 06:20 AM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by KGB6
OK. I have lived with this MAF adjustment for nearly to weeks now and can honestly say it was worth doing. The additional quickness and responsiveness remains.

Guys/Gals: give this a shoot. I don't think you’ll be disappointed.

but, how has the temp. been around there lately ? has it been cooler ? could the responsiveness be attributed to a drop in temp . ?

Last edited by Zig; Dec 12, 2005 at 06:22 AM.
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Old Dec 12, 2005 | 07:05 AM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by SpinMonster
Air cleaners, headers, cam, fast intake manifold, ported heads, NO screen, ported TB, and tuned....no codes.


Soon no MAF
don't count, you got tuned.

so far i've been able to add; B&B bullets, x-pipe, 'homemade ram-air', maf mod and ngk tr5 spark plugs without throwing any codes. i did, however, throw a 'cat below efficiency' when i exhaust wrapped the section of pipe from the exhaust end of the cat to the x junction. i started pulling too much heat through the cat and popped a p0430 code. unwrapped the section, gave it a tank of good gas and wha'lah... code went away all by itself.

i have noticed that the car will start to run with more of a up and down idle when the maf gets dirty.

i've removed my screen, cleaned the maf (carefully - used q-tips, etc.), removed the rear diffusor from the maf (boy, was that a bit of work, i didn't have my dremel, had to use a hacksaw blade, a file, and some sandpaper). the only diffusor in my maf is the front (silver) one. I polished it and aligned it with the throttle body butterfly. I've also removed the stock bellows, replaced it with a 4" rubber joint from home depot.

i have an mn6 f55, I hardly ever go above 2500 rpm while in traffic, in fact that actually would be a bit high. i mostly cruise @ approx. 1500, shift around 2k and only go up to 2500 when i want to pull away and create some space between myself and eveyone else.

ps. i haven't had any problems with the clutch sticking/sucking to the floor since the pedal springs came out.
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Old Dec 12, 2005 | 07:21 AM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by 05_C6Z51
I agree with the guy about removing the screen and rotating the MAF. As it turns out, I was one of the few that did throw codes anyway. Instead of buying a new MAF, I decided to purchase one of those "Tornado" inserts to help straighten the airflow. Who knows if it really swirls or not.

Anyway, since the Tornado install, it runs great.
have you tried it without the 'Tornado' but with the MAF rotated ?
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Old Dec 12, 2005 | 07:33 AM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by par34n5
Went to the dealership and talked with my mechanic. He has been working on vettes for 20 years he knows his stuff. My car had the lean codes as we all thought but he absolutely assured me it was not from removing the screen. With the Vortex Ram it is not a screen issue with the Halltech it is...... He said the reason for the code in my car was one of the bands was not tight enough. What happens is there is such a turbulance in the ram box that it will eventually shake the bands slightly loose and if the intake sucks any air from anywhere other then where it is suppose to you will code. He also said the Vortex was the best intake for the C6. Vortex has gone to great lenghts to make a dependable unit. We will see for now no codes. Hope this helped someone else
Removing the screen shouldn't throw a code. A loose intake will.
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