Transmission Shift Question
My MN6 trans (8K miles) will seem to "kick back" when shifting into 2nd and 3rd if you are not doing "spirited" driving. Meaning that unless you are beating on it, it seems to try to kick the gearshift back on leisurely shifts.
Additionally, when I am slowing or at a stop, many times the car will not go into 1st. At times I have had to make multiple attempts to get it into 1st. Sometimes it just will not go, and I have to move slightly in 2nd, then shift into 1st. Two examples: 1) I was backed into a space at work with the car in reverse. I was leaving at the end of the day, and no matter how hard i tried, the car would not go into 1st. I wound up having to pull the car out of the slot in 2nd gear about a foot, then shift to 1st. 2) I was taking my daughter to school. There is a small uphill grade leading into the parking lot. I slowed to probably around 2-3 MPH (so as not to drag the front air dam too bad), but the car would not go into 1st. I wound up coming to a complete stop on the incline with cars behind me and had to put into 2nd to move the car up the incline a bit, then I was able to shift to 1st.
The dealer had the car this past week for some other minor issues, but said they found no issues with the trans (could not duplicate). It shifted the same way on the trip home today.
Have any of you guys experienced these transmission issues? Any solutions? Or ways to get the dealer to respond?
Thanks in advance,
Aaron
It took a week or so before I was able to get as smooth as the 93.
Toe heel is a pain as the accel/brake spacing is larger. I need to wear my pair of wider sneakers to make it easier. I'll probably eventually upgrade to the wider aluminum accel pedal.

i found it when i started having problems finding reverse
i thought it was my trans. (since it had recently been dropped to replace the clutch).
turned out to be the 'clamp'.
to access the 'clamp' you would need to pull the console and shifter boot, follow the same process you would do if you were replacing your shifter.
when i tightened mine i tried to center it as best i could before i tightened it by:
starting from reverse.
place shifter in neutral.
place shifter in 1st.
place shifter in 2nd.
place shifter in sixth.
place shifter in reverse.
place the shifter in third.
place the shifter in fourth.
place the shifter in neutral.
retorque clamp.
(do not wiggle the shifter during the shifts)
since perfoming the above i have not had a single instance of any issue accessing first, the shifter popping out of gear, nor any issues with finding reverse.
the clamp is tightened using a torx head and is located on the shifter to transmission bar, it is accessed via the shifter area in the center console.
Last edited by Zig; Dec 8, 2006 at 07:33 AM.
i found it when i started having problems finding reverse
i thought it was my trans. (since it had recently been dropped to replace the clutch).
turned out to be the 'clamp'.
to access the 'clamp' you would need to pull the console and shifter boot, follow the same process you would do if you were replacing your shifter.
when i tightened mine i tried to center it as best i could before i tightened it by:
starting from reverse.
place shifter in neutral.
place shifter in 1st.
place shifter in 2nd.
place shifter in sixth.
place shifter in reverse.
place the shifter in third.
place the shifter in fourth.
place the shifter in neutral.
retorque clamp.
(do not wiggle the shifter during the shifts)
since perfoming the above i have not had a single instance of any issue accessing first, the shifter popping out of gear, nor any issues with finding reverse.
the clamp is tightened using a torx head and is located on the shifter to transmission bar, it is accessed via the shifter area in the center console.
Sounds like good advice!
Thanks again for the prompt replies.
Aaron
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
- Apply the parking brake.
- Remove the shift control closeout boot.
- Place the shifter into NEUTRAL.
- Press down to engage the shift control neutral lock pin.
- Loosen the transmission shift rod clamp bolt.
- Loosen the shift control mounting bolts.
- Check that the shift control locator (on the underside of the shift control) is installed into the shifter bracket on the side of the driveline support assembly.
- Tighten the shift control mounting bolts.
- Tighten the shift control mounting bolts to 30 N·m (22 lb ft).
- Tighten the transmission shift rod clamp bolt.
- Tighten the transmission shift rod clamp bolt to 30 N·m (22 lb ft).
- Lift to release the shift control neutral lock pin.
- Install the shift control closeout boot.
- Release the parking brake.

...[*]Lift to release the shift control neutral lock pin. [*]Install the shift control closeout boot.[*]Release the parking brake.
the neutral lock-out pin simply locks the shifter in place but the 'linkage' could still be out of place or off center, since the pin locks the front half of the link.
i guess, you could use the pin to lock it after you've found center and before you retorque it (which will require it to be loosened and retorqued)
i simply aligned the front half of the link with the back half, tried to remove as much slop as possible, by shifting through the gears, then torqued it.
Had a new and very disturbing twist in this little adventure today.
I was attempting a 2nd to 1st downshift while rolling at about 25 mph and heard/felt an awfull grinding!!! It was like the 1st gear syncro had died!!! If I totally stop the car and do the shift into 2nd then into 1st trick everything is fine but as soon as I try the shift in motion the grinding comes back 2 out of 10 downshifts...... it doesn't do the grind everytime while in motion......
I have 30 000 miles on the car and I now wonder if the trans is going to totaly let go at some inconvient moment or do I need to change my driving style.
I see a trip to the dealer in the very near future to "discuss" this issue.












