Wow. Tough day. Blown engine. Modded with Vortech which means I eat it. I either rebuild or look for option B. All in all, I was happy with the vortech but I'd like to see more low end torque.

I'd like to maintain a stealth approach .. especially with a vert.

Any suggestions before I begin rebuild ....

 

Can you give us some details on what happened? Did you over rev, or did it just break under boost? What was you rwhp, psi, and A/F ratio? This is the first I have read about a blown LS2 and I have been researching for months to try and figure out what the max power these motors are capable of. Thanks for any info.

I think a forged 402 would be plenty and you could reach any of your hp goal easily. Sorry about your luck.

 

Did Andy tune your car?

 

Long story but here it goes.

Today, 5:15am San Mateo Bridge:

Exiting toll booth just like any ordinary day. I certainly didn't hammer it but upon acceleration I noticed a sudden loss of power and a "ticking sound" . I was able to cross the bridge. I barely got the car moving from a standing start but once rolling I was able to get it to a local, respectable performance shop.

I don't have all of the detail yet, but the engine shot and bare minimum needs to be rebuilt.

1 Year Ago:

Vortech, tune and variety of other toys.

6 Months Ago:
Radiator leak (from air intake on s/c). Continuous fill of low coolant. Replaced radiator and got new intake and shroud for radiator. Noticed on heavy acceleration a slight knocking sound (which was strange but was only evident at about 3000rpm under WOT).

The original work was done by A&A which I hold in high regard. Not sure if this is tied to running the car hard unknowingly with low coolant which may have caused some pretty significant problems that I was not aware of.

I'm not a motor head but love running cars hard so I can't really speak to what exactly may have gone wrong.

Bummer. But, there are more important things in life than a car so It's not a really big deal.

 

Definitely sounds like detonation, it sound like maybe your computer got out of wack because I know Andy and he knows what he is doing when it comes to tuning. So how much psi and rwhp were you making on the car?

 

I believe PSI was about 6.5, with RWHP of 505

 

Stock bottom end and a bit too much boost can do that...gotta run low boost and be very careful/conservative with the tuning when running forced induction on a high compression, stock internal (non forged) motor.
Not to restate the obvious of course.

 

Hmm, not even that high actually...there are other factors/parameters (fuel, tuning etc.) to look at as well of course.

 

Yeah, thats what I was thinking something with the timing because 6.5 is nothing on these engines, the guys here in Houston run 11 all day with no problems.

 

It was actually 6.3, so I thought it relatively conservative....

 

When my car had the NOS system my car had 500RWH and 570TORQUE...I over revved and Kaboom. No more NOS for me I have now constant 440RWH and 415TORQUE...I am happy camper. When the motor blew up the car was at the dealer 3 months .

Manuel

 

Did you mention to anyone after you heard this slight knocking? If so, what did they say or do about it, if anything?

 

Sorry to hear about your motor.

Without the proper amount of coolant in a FI car your engine becomes more susceptible to nucleate boiling. It is very possible that the low coolant = hot spot = knock and bye bye piston. Or excessive heat = warped head = hot spot = knock and bye bye motor.

You may want to consider a forged internal motor with a larger cooling capacity radiator. I am sure your tuner will advise you with regard to other modifications (run it richer, cooler, less timing & etc) you can make to your car. Good luck!

 

Todd, Longtime no talk...I'm sorry to hear about your motor Let's keep in touch...you still got the M3 tho..right?

 

DOH! Sold it about 6months ago as it was only collecting dust! Fortunately, I have 2 other vehicles. I've been traveling like a madman in Europe so I haven't been around in quite some time. My schedule is clean for the next 2 months ... now I'll be without my vette!

 

Best to make lemonade from lemons, right?

Look at this setback as an opportunity to forge and stoke your bottom end.
The stroke and smaller pulley will serioulsy improve your low rpm performance.

You could use you LS2 block to do a forged and stroked 402ci.

If it was in your situation,
I would look into a L92 block (2007 Cadillac Escalade) with a forged stroker package.
I believe the L92 will make 418ci with the same stoke as the LS7.

This is only a minor setback for you.
I wouldn't be surprised if you will be happy that the stock motor failed once you feel the additional power you will be making.

Check out the C5 FI section:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/forumdisplay.php?f=86

Probably your best source for FI and forged rebuild info.

 

Sorry about your motor but glad you made it to a shop and you're not without wheels. For Option B I'd suggest the obvious...go with a built, forged component motor. Good luck whatever way you decide to go.

 

That's assuming that the cylinder walls in his stock LS2 are still in good enough shape and weren't too badly scored when the motor (rod? piston?) let go.
I like that L92 idea as well.

 

You could always get a crate LS7

 

LSX block is the way to go!