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No need for a picture, just remove the center cap from your rear wheel and the 33mm nut is right there dead center on the axle. Hard to miss, the nut is over an inch and a quarter wide.
Can you remove the center cap while the wheel is mounted or do you first need to remove the wheel?
The "Performance Tool" 33mm that I bought at Pep Boys doesn't have close tolerances; measuring across the flats I get 33.71mm, 33.68mm, 33.75mm. But $12.99 @ Pep Boys has to beat Snap On prices.
I've been following the Z06 thread on loose axle nuts and decided to check my C6. Dial caliper showed the nut to be just under 33mm so I bought a 33mm GM axle nut from Pep Boys. Passenger side was very loose, 80lb.ft. or so, drivers side was tighter but still not correct. Tightned both to 118 lb. ft. and will continue to check them now that I've proved to myself that it's a problem. May be Locktite time?
I just ordered a second set of nuts and I plan to double nut them...can't think of any downside to doing this and the upside is this should stop the originals from backing off.
I think the reason you are reading one side was "more loose" than the other is that it is unlikely both sides would loosen the same amount.
I just ordered a second set of nuts and I plan to double nut them...can't think of any downside to doing this and the upside is this should stop the originals from backing off.
I just ordered a second set of nuts and I plan to double nut them...can't think of any downside to doing this and the upside is this should stop the originals from backing off.
Interesting idea, you would have to torque the first, then tighten the second without adding torque to the first nut, I guess hold the socket out a little from the second nut so as not to touch the first?
Besides, what would that do to the balance of the half shaft or bearing hub assembly? Probably nothing, but I wonder...............
Last edited by LOS ANGELES PI; May 22, 2007 at 07:04 PM.
Rather than search out something that "might" do the job I just bought the OEM nuts at a dealer, they cost me ~$13 each.
Originally Posted by LOS ANGELES PI
Interesting idea, you would have to torque the first, then tighten the second without adding torque to the first nut, I guess hold the socket out a little from the second nut so as not to touch the first?
That won't be a problem as the nut has a integral shoulder washer incorporated into it so the socket can't go past the first nut to get to the second one.
Originally Posted by LOS ANGELES PI
Besides, what would that do to the balance of the half shaft or bearing hub assembly? Probably nothing, but I wonder...............
There is plenty of room to add a second nut onto the shaft and in will have no effect on balance as it is at the very center of the wheel assembly.
I will pick the new axle nuts up today (dealer had only 1 in stock), my plan is to torque the existing nuts to the 118 ft.lbs. and then torque the second nut to 100 ft.lbs. which should prevent the original from backing out as the nuts should lock to each other.
"Double nutting" (sounds weird) has been around forever and I've never seen something come loose when using this method.
Rather than search out something that "might" do the job I just bought the OEM nuts at a dealer, they cost me ~$13 each.
That won't be a problem as the nut has a integral shoulder washer incorporated into it so the socket can't go past the first nut to get to the second one.
There is plenty of room to add a second nut onto the shaft and in will have no effect on balance as it is at the very center of the wheel assembly.
I will pick the new axle nuts up today (dealer had only 1 in stock), my plan is to torque the existing nuts to the 118 ft.lbs. and then torque the second nut to 100 ft.lbs. which should prevent the original from backing out as the nuts should lock to each other.
"Double nutting" (sounds weird) has been around forever and I've never seen something come loose when using this method.
Excellent suggestion!!!
Maybe you could start a new thread titled "Solution to Loose Axle Nuts" to get the info out to as many people as possible. Then it should be made a sticky. This is the cheapest and easiest solution to this nagging problem...hopefully, GM is reading this and will at least incorporate a "half-nut" as a locking nut. It doesn't take a lot of torque when double-nutting something to get them locked on the threads, 100 ft-lb will have them on there until the axle shaft or nuts rust away.
Good job!
I gotta quit reading these threads about issues I would of normally been unaware of......
Checked my 2006 C6 A6 garage queen (700 miles) and it has never ever been pushed and found both nuts about 1/6 of a turn loose. They were not loose but they were not at 100 ft lbs which is where I set my torque wrench as I was just trying to verify tightness not break loose. My concern with breaking loose the nut has destroying the "Locktite seal" if there was a factory seal and I can tell you for sure there was NO factory installed locktite seal. The minor nut movement I experienced could be the calibration difference between my torque wrench and the factory's impact wrench even though I set mine at 100 ft lbs so I'd rather doubt this theory.
This will be a routine inspection when I change the oil from now on....Thanks everybody for the heads up.