CAM idle quality factors




IE: does a 224/228 on a 114 idle better than a 224/228 on a 114+2?
From another thread:
For example, I ran a 218/224 cam on a 114 LSA in my previous LS1. Adding the two durations together, then dividing by 2 gives an average duration of 221. Doubling the LSA gives 228. Result is a -7, which gives an excellent idle. It was almost impossible to tell that it had an aftermarket cam in it.
Let's take another example, a 228/232 on a 112 LSA. Average duration is 230, LSA doubled is 224, resulting in a +6. This cam will barely idle at all. Even with a 115 LSA, the result would be 0, which would still result in a rough idle.
You could run a 224/228 (very popular grind) on a 115 LSA, would result in a -4, should give you a very tolerable idle. A 224/224 on a 114 LSA would be about the same, and a 224/224 on a 115 would give you a -6, and a very stock-like idle.
One good thing about the LS2 is that it will idle better than an LS1 with the same exact cam, due to the extra displacement (cubes).
Well, here's the data that may enlighten you and then again, maybe not.
Read the cam events -that will tell you which LSA and which ILC you are comparing.






Well, here's the data that may enlighten you and then again, maybe not.
Read the cam events -that will tell you which LSA and which ILC you are comparing.
I dont know much at all about cams. Truth is the advice I give is observed performance on repeatable builds that people can and do get. I know the basics about certain aspects from reading and asking questions. Every cam I ever commented on, I had used and was stating my personal experience. Sometimes I need a little info from the pro's. When I saw that you responded to this thread, I was happy since I thought it would be a nice response with a yes/no and an explanation, instead I feel pretty bad that aftert having applogzed to you in a PM and in a phone call. I ask a simple question and get that type of answer.
I differed in opinion on L92 heads and now after no changes but the heads themselves with a given cam, I have a slower car. I still have that opinion but it seems to bother you regardless of positive remarks and PM's to you to applogize and ask advice. In honest humility, there doesnt seem to be a way to get out from under when you make a bad post or come off as a know it all.
I asked you in a PM if L92's shaved .030 with stock gaskets fits a 228/232 114lsa cam and you said yes. You still stand by that?
It appears that since they have the same overlap they would have the same idle quality. Wouldnt it be better to have a wider LSA and advance the cam to mave the power band back down? I know it hurts the intake valve clearance.
Last edited by SpinMonster; May 28, 2007 at 01:12 PM.
I dont know much at all about cams. Truth is the advice I give is observed performance on repeatable builds that people can and do get. I know the basics about certain aspects from reading and asking questions. Sometimes I need a little info from the pro's. When I saw that you responded to this thread, I was happy since I thought it would be a nice response with a yes/no and an explanation, instead I feel pretty bad that aftert having applogzed to you in a PM and in a phone call. I ask a simple question and get that type of answer.
I differed in opinion on L92 heads and now after no changes but the heads themselves with a given cam, I have a slower car. I still have that opinion but it seems to bother you regardless of positive remarks and PM's to you to applogize and ask advice. In honest humility, there doesnt seem to be a way to get out from under when you make a bad post or come off as a know it all.
I asked you in a PM if L92's shaved .030 with stock gaskets fits a 228/232 114lsa cam and you said yes. You still stand by that?
Just giving back to you what you asked for.
Don't give up on him. You can read through this post from earlier this month in a different cam thread.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...4&postcount=15
You'll have to wade through some stuff, but you'll find an explanation of idle quality as related to overlap...then you'll see why advancing/retarding the cam won't affect idle quality. If you open the intake/close the exhaust sooner, more burned gases (exhaust) goes into the intake manifold only to be brought back in to the cylinder. If you open the intake/close the exhaust later, less burned gases go into the intake manifold but more gets brought in to the cylinder through the later closing exhaust valve. Either way, the net result is no change in exhaust dilution of the incoming charge. There is also no change in the period of time (degrees and/or milliseconds) the intake manifold is exposed to the pressure of the exhaust manifold.
As far as advancing the cam to improve low end power, it'll only help if you're bogging off the line when drag racing, but I don't have to tell you given the "toy" you have. If you're talking about on the street, then it'll improve the low RPM characteristics and general drivability of the car. Finally, with respect to decreasing the intake valve-piston clearance, you are correct. But what you lose on the intake, you gain on the exhaust valve-piston clearance. Since exhaust lift is usually more than intake lift and the exhaust valve usually closes more degrees ATDC than the number of degrees the intake valve opens BTDC, the exhaust valve-piston clearance is the more critical of the two assuming the piston has notches for the respective valve diameters. If not, the added diameter of the intake valve will have to be factored in.
I know I said some things here you already knew, that was for the uninitiated and not intended to mean you didn't know. I hope it doesn't confuse the issue nor too long/boring.




If there is one thing I learned from the L92 head swap which is to be undone this week: It is better to have 30 more TQ at 3500rpm than +20HP at 6000rpm. The L92's may look super inviting with hyped up top end power but if your car gives up 20-30rwtq at 2.8k-4k you will feel it. Missing 20hp up at peak is not readily noticed even by guys that actually take their cars up that high. Never dismiss the power under the curve and certainly dont get sold on hyped up peak rwhp numbers. The next time you are tooling around town and enjoying the power, look down at the tach and take note that the power you are feeling is 2500-4k where you do 90% of your driving. Advancing a cam can give that exact trade off.
Last edited by SpinMonster; May 29, 2007 at 12:18 AM.
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Sorry your L92 experiment didn't work out for you. I applaud your willingness to give it a try, despite your well-founded doubts. That's old school, and what hot rodding is all about!




High rpm is probably still the same or even better but the soft low end takes the fun out. Dont dismiss the dip you see on the happy dyno's sporting silly peak numbers. You will definitely feel a 20-30rwtq loss at 3500rpm.




If there is one thing I learned from the L92 head swap which is to be undone this week: It is better to have 30 more TQ at 3500rpm than +20HP at 6000rpm. The L92's may look super inviting with hyped up top end power but if your car gives up 20-30rwtq at 2.8k-4k you will feel it. Missing 20hp up at peak is not readily noticed even by guys that actually take their cars up that high. Never dismiss the power under the curve and certainly dont get sold on hyped up peak rwhp numbers. The next time you are tooling around town and enjoying the power, look down at the tach and take note that the power you are feeling is 2500-4k where you do 90% of your driving. Advancing a cam can give that exact trade off.
How about posting a dyno sheet showing the comparision? Did you finish the tune? You also dropped the compression ratio?
Having done real development and testing I've seen as little as 4 foot lbs loss and as high as 11 foot lbs loss in that range.
Attached is a graph showing the typical differences and most will agree that the loss is worth the gain. Bear in mind that you are looking at a stock 6.0 liter with the only changes being the L92 Stock heads and intake.
Last edited by C_Williams@RPM; Jun 1, 2007 at 10:56 AM.
note the same, narrow difference in low end grunt.
Last edited by C_Williams@RPM; Jun 1, 2007 at 12:26 PM. Reason: wrong graph -
note the larger difference in low end grunt.....
My point.....matching the components makes the difference and that overall evaluations based on limited data and incorrect part matching is mis-information.









