Do Octane Additives Really Work ?


I don't make any money off of promoting torco.... torco costs me money.
What I'm doing is sharing my experiences about a product that does work.
Your the first to share info on that stuff ( lucas as pictured in the post ). Those guys are promoting torco, maybe it works but no
additives for this guy.
the gas does burn slower!!!, word of advice, once you go thru the tank of gas, disconnect the battery and wait like 5 min and reconnect. this will clear the tables the comp set (with the addative) to run the car!!!,.......I put 3!!! so can you imgine and to makes things worse I've been taunding my guys that Im going to whip them at the track! and I get OWNED






If you truly have a need for Torco to make big horsepower. These little things like spark plugs or replacing O2 sensors are not a big concern. FWIW, I have been using Torco for years and the only time I needed to replace the O2 sensors was after my last motor blew up and "flushed" coolant down my exhaust system.
I've had the same spark plugs in my car for over a year without any problems. The set I had in before stayed in for almost 2 years as well.
I too have run Torco in my 98 for over 5 years, with no ill effects. I don't change my plugs or o2s with any more regularity then one would on any hipo car... I've also never gotten an engine light from using Torco. I also now run it in my 08, and believe we made some of the biggest HP #s for just intake, headers and exaust:455 RWHP!!Do I sell it on the side??
Does it represent more then 1% of my yearly income? NO, I just share it with others at a very reasonable price. It's just one way of effectively raising your octane, if that's what your after.
For what it's worth, I've seen the inside of MANY MANY motors that did not use torco or mix in 100 octane with big HP applications. Let's just say it was not pretty!!!! KABOOM
JB
The tune sets when the spark plug fires before TDC, the closer to TDC the spark fires, the more power you get. Higher octane gas allows you to set the spark closer to TDC. The engine does not have a fuel analyzer to figure out the octane of the gas, so it can't move the spark advance forward. The engine can detect when you have gas that has a lower octane rating than it is tuned for via the knock sensor. Knock happens when the fuel spontaneously combusts (due to pressure and heat) BEFORE the spark plug fires. The engine detects the knock and fires the spark plug sooner, resulting in less power. The higher the octane the less likely it will spontaneously combust. Using fuel additives to raise the octane is a waste unless you have tuned the car to use that higher octane gas.





TESTING OF THE LUCAS PRODUCT. Im going to finish off the tank and
start all over with 93 OCTANE.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts



First, my car is a 2006 A6, has LG headers & catted x-pipe, Vararam CAI, a Lingenfelter 160 thermo, and computer tuning by Chuck at Corvettes of Westchester. At the track, it has turned a 12.65 @ 113.5 MPH w/ a 1.95 second short time, on the OEM runflats.
The dyno pulls were done on a Mustang dyno at F-Body Central in Baltimore, MD. Their dyno is calibrated very conservatively, reads a bit lower than some other dynos in the area.
We did two baseline pulls, one in 3rd gear, one in 4th, then added one bottle of Torco to a half-tank of Shell 93 octane, & did another 4th gear pull. There was 2-3 degrees of KR on the first 4th gear pull. I let the car idle for several minutes, revving to 2500 occasionally, to make sure that the Torco/gas mix made its way to the engine.
Results were: absolutely no change whatsoever. With the Torco, there was a little less KR, but not much. This tells me that the knock sensors were not detecting much preignition, they were picking up vibrations and noise from the dyno --- very common.
We also noticed that the A/F mix was quite lean at almost 13.9:1. Advance was fairly modest, around 22 degrees. Measurement was done with a wideband sensor on a standalone bung welded in front of the cats.
My tuner Brett decided to try running a little richer mix, around 12.8:1, with a little more advance. This also resulted in almost no change to the TQ curve or peak numbers whatsoever. In my opinion, this is reflective of the two disparate tuning approaches used by Chuck at CoW, who does not use a dyno, and Brett, who does. Even with the A/F ratio quite lean by some standards, the car performed very well on the street and at the track, with great driveability, power, and no pinging at all. The dyno tune is much richer, has more advance, but got the exact same results, and drives the same as before.
I think this is a credit to the sophistication of the engine management controls built into the ECM. A slight bit of KR at WOT is OK if you end up with the same amount of power.
Surprisingly, I got slightly better gas mileage driving home (all freeway driving) after the tune. Stop & go driving might be a different story, though.
For those of you interested in the actual numbers, the baseline in the 3rd gear pull was 341.6 HP, 337 TQ. The baseline 4th gear pull was 351.2 HP, 348 TQ. WIth the Torco and the revised tuning, we picked up 1 HP, no TQ. The TQ curves were almost identical in every pull.
The actual numbers don't really mean that much, they're just useful for tuning. I have had the car dynoed before at a different local shop (also a Mustang dyno), and the numbers were about 10 HP/TQ higher. The track results are probably a better indicator of the actual power to the ground.
The dyno tuner is taking the more conventional approach of using a safer A/F ratio while using the addition of timing to achieve the same overall numbers.
Both appear to be workable approaches in a N/A car without alot of static compression.
In a boosted car, Chuck's method would not be an option. An intercooled / boosted car needs to have an A/F in the high 11's, while a non intercooled car needs to be in the low 11's, especially earlier cars that do not have knock sensors.
Another thing to consider is that when tuning under controlled conditions such as a dyno, a conservative approach is the best aproach. Many, many a car has come off the dyno on a cool spring day making great numbers and then experienced catastrophic engine failure at the track on a hot and humid summer afternoon.
Find a tuner/shop you (and others) trust and stick with them. I've had the same tuner (Second Street Speed) for 5 years now. He always takes the conservative approach to tuning my cars. The last tuning session with my Red Mustang, we ended up with 724 RWHP but he was not comfortable with the fact that the A/F was in the high 11's (20lbs boost - non intercooled). He backed it down to very low 11's and still achieved 712 RWHP (on Torco BTW). This is a street driven car which is raced 2 - 3 times a year. If this was a car that I competitively raced, we would have been tuning with C12 or C16 and the results would have been substantially different.
http://www.motorsporttech.com/c6_accessories01.asp






http://www.motorsporttech.com/c6_accessories01.asp
They have also told some of my costumers that Torco no longer works, and to use their stuff...
Torco has been around for over ten years, and it's prices are lower!






When Charlie tuned my 08 a few weeks ago, he had to spend alot of time on the dyno to massage the 455 RWHP dyno #s out of the car. A conservative tune set for 93 will not gain any HP by just raiseing octane, or slightly tweaking the tune,
With forced induction, the results are easier to see with higher octane. I've done 100s of pulls on my blown 98, and we could never run the kind of timing we do without some increase in octane. I use 91 octane mixed with Torco, and run 14 #s of boost at 24 degrees of timing with ZERO KR!!!
Thank you for sharing your results, but it just proves the point that others were saying, if the car is not tuned for higher octane, increasing it won't make much of a difference. On the other hand, if you go out and drive the car hard on a hot day, and your tune is close to the edge, having higher octane in the car will help stay off any KR, and help maintan the HP levels.
JB
P.S. If you don't plan on doing any more tuning, and wish to return the unused Torco, I will refund your money, since I run it in both my cars.
Let me know...
Last edited by jbsblownc5; Oct 18, 2007 at 10:56 AM.


Manifold porting by Jeremy Formato at Keiths PITSTOP. Car runs great
with a fresh tank of SUNOCO 93. No more additives for me. Hope your car is running great now. You still have to put some manners on those boys. Good luck , LSCHLEM
The mods are a great combination that were chosen to take full advantage of an LS3 and they do just that.
Last, Torco is indeed a viable octane booster used by thousands to enhance octane and fight detonation. In California, where 91 octane reigns, one can of Torco will bring us up to 94....that's 30 points.
I totally AGREE.... TORCO is the BEST octane booster for a vehicle with cats..... NO QUESTION.
Chuck CoW




was that with the stock timing table ?
Aside from AZ 91 Octane, this is the only culprit for a sub 30k mile engine. I would never use the stuff...


