I have a light knock under light accelerration. Of course the deal is def when i try to tell them about the issue. i was thinking of going from 5w to 10w. Any thoughts?

 

Two reasons that GM specifies 5w30 Mobil One. (1) Fuel economy and (2) Mobil pays them to use it! Probably won't hurt to use it, but there are better lubricants on the market.

 

Going to 10W 30 oil will not change anything. Dealer is probably only deaf because you don't give them enough information or they cannot do a road test like you do. Have you ever taken their tech on a ride so you could point out the noise? 5W30 oil is only 5W when it is cold. On its way to getting hot it passes through 10W and gets to the same viscosity (30) as the 10W 30 does when it gets hot. Doesn't matter what the ambient temperature is.

Bill

 

I'm also using 0W30 Castrol european formula!!!

 

Sometimes I'm amazed by how little is understood about the workings and the engineering in the cars we drive. While not professing to be an expert in anything, I do constantly strive to learn all I can and generally share the knowledge that I believe is true and correct.

It appears that some people think a multi-grade oil thickens as it gets hotter, but just the opposite is true. Rather than attempt to explain it in detail, think of it like this. A 5W-30 oil flows like a straight 5 weight and lubricates like a straight 30 weight. The numbers represent a grading system, not a specific viscosity.

Modern engines are constructed with much closer tolerances than those of the past, due primarily to the constantly improving machining and casting equipment and methods. The part to part clearances remain relatively the same, but now are far more consistant.

Along with the advancements in engine design and manufacturing techniques, came concurrent lubrication development. Not only in the formulations of oil and synthetics, but the capacity for endurance too. Today's average multi-grade oils are good for 6000-8000 miles, while the synthetics have about twice that life.

The old "change at 3 month/3000 miles" was necessary when oils had no additives and engines had no filters. Thankfully that era ended about 7 decades ago, but unfortunately many people continue to believe the oil company sales pitch rather than the car manufacturer's reccommendation.

Cars that implement a computerized oil life indicator message system have provided a simple solution for the car owner. The computer merely counts engine revolutions and factors in oil temperature. It's a far more accurate method to measure oil life than a calendar or odometer.

 

I run GC 0w30

 

maybe you should form a support group with guys who believe 5W-30 is too thick and won't flow at low temps so they use 0W-30

 

Wow it took you a long time to find and post on this thread. Myself and the guys in the support group were beginning to think we had converted you into thinking for yourself and you were no longer a Lemming.

It seems that the majority posting on this thread don't have a problem using something other than 5w-30 so you have your work cut out for you. Good luck.

 

I usually leave truly stupid people alone but your arrogance, sarcasm, superior attitude, along with you twisting facts and what people say has inspired me to bring up the old thread we had last month.

Watch for the old thread to come up tonight, I have a few treats for our "lemming"...you'll enjoy it.

 

this time hopefully you have your moma available to clean up your mess

 

05 C6 LS2.....from day one got 3000 miles plus per qt of oil. A few years later got around 2200 miles per qt. Then at 100,000 miles suddenly dropped to 1400 miles per qt....Have now changed to 10 w 30 Mobil One. Now getting 3000 plus miles per qt. and have 106,000 miles on odometer.....Gas mileage dropped 0.2 and any difference in H P is not noticeable to me. Seems to me

 

10W-30 is fine. Keep in mind uber-cold temperatures.