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I am sure this has been posted before... and I am sorry if I am reposting.
I am trying to figure out what are the best headers performance wise, as far as which will net the most gain and best performance. I am not really sure what the real difference between each brands. I am looking for 1 3/4, as I am not goin to mod the internal engine at all... so no need for 1 7/8. My goal is cai, full exhaust, tune, and 100 shot. Hoping for 500 rwhp. But anyways, please give me insight into headers. Thanks guys!
1-3/4 vs 1-7/8.....not to highhjack your thread, but I have been mulling this decision, too. If one installs 1-7/8 but does not have internal mods or a blower, is there a downside??...other than cost??
1-3/4 vs 1-7/8.....not to highhjack your thread, but I have been mulling this decision, too. If one installs 1-7/8 but does not have internal mods or a blower, is there a downside??...other than cost??
No problem... maybe we can get both are questions answered..
For my money, they had to be LG Pro long tube headers. I also opted to have them coated.
On another note...I know some guys use nitrous without a problem. That said, I'd avoid nitrous like the plague. I can understand serious drag racers using it but on a car you really care about...no way. I've personally see two guys trash their cars using nitrous. It's cheap power but any time you push a stock cast-piston engine beyond its design tolerances I think you're asking for a problem. This is just my opinion based on what I've seen...food for thought. I hate to see any fellow C6 owner put their car at risk.
For my money, they had to be LG Pro long tube headers. I also opted to have them coated.
On another note...I know some guys use nitrous without a problem. That said, I'd avoid nitrous like the plague. I can understand serious drag racers using it but on a car you really care about...no way. I've personally see two guys trash their cars using nitrous. It's cheap power but any time you push a stock cast-piston engine beyond its design tolerances I think you're asking for a problem. This is just my opinion based on what I've seen...food for thought. I hate to see any fellow C6 owner put their car at risk.
Good luck though.
A little nitrous related 'humor' below:
Thats really not something I want to see.... I am still up in the air about the idea of nitrous... I guess we shall see... but I won't be doing that until next year if i do.. when my warranty goes out.
Someone else said it and I dont remember who but "Nitrous is like a hottie with an STD, you want to hit it but are afraid of what might happen".
On the header issue.... Im not the type to tell someone to do a search but in this case your probably better off. Fanboys from every brand will post, those who think only one tube size or primary length etc are right will tell you why you need to get that and no other. In short this thread will be just like many others that you can read right now without waiting for this one to turn into one more of the same thing.
I personally like Kooks a lot and have run them on all of my cars. We will likely be installing a set on the Z06 in the next week or two. LG seems to make a good product also..and I would consider them..though I honestly doubt you would feel a seat of the pants difference between the two.
The rule of thumb is that you want the smallest diameter tubing that will flow the maximum exhaust flow your engine can produce. I would run 1 3/4" on all 500 rwhp and lower applications..and 1 7/8" on anything with more power. With F/I, 1 7/8" is always a good I idea.
From: Greater Detroit Metro MI, when I'm not travelling.
You will find that people always tell you what they have is best... The general consensus on this forum is that the losses in low end torque 1 7/8 inch headers incurr make them a poor choice for engines that don't require the flow capacity of the larger diameter primaries. Even LS7s don't seem to benefit much from them; I'd stick with 1 3/4 unless you are running a big HP boosted application.
Brand wise, you will find people who swear by LG, American Racing, Kooks, etc. I chose kooks because they were a lot cheaper than LG, and I could get them JetHot coated. I installed them myself in less than 5 hours, the fit was perfect, I didn't have to modify anything to get them to fit, and I am extremely pleased with the results: they made 395RWHP on my LS2 car...
If you do a search on the header subject you will find a wealth of information. To say this subject has been covered before would be a major understatement. But really, there has been some really interesting & indepth tests done between several of the major brands and it would be good reading for anyone interested.
Ricky, if you are referring to the 08 LS3, George R posted here about this subject, and confirmed that there is clearance on a ls3 with the 1 3/4, and also posted a picture. I will be going with the 1 3/4 Kooks and 3 x 3 midpipe. SInce Kooks are only 27 inches long, they peak higher by nature. The dyno graphs that I have seen here with the 1 7/8 on a midly modified LS3, show about a 30 RWTQ loss between 3500 - 5500 with the bigger primaries. This not Kooks in particular, but ARH as well, since LG's only come in 1 3/4, they cannot be compared to the others with 1 7/8 primaries.
Shop around for American Racing, Kooks, or LG headers and X pipe kits and buy the one that gives you the best buy. They are all very high quality and close in power output.
After installing each brand, I will say the American Racing installed the easiest (less than two hours to install!) as they did the best job of routing the individual tubes.
You need to decide if you are going to get hi-flow Cats in your X pipes, or go straight through. You may experience some fumes with straight through pipes and it will not pass a smog check. It is debatable, but hi-flow Cats probably lose very little HP. Even if you buy the X pipes with Cats, you may experience a check engine light caused by the rear O2 sensor not getting hot as quickly as when it was up very close to the exhaust port. You will need to have this tuned out, or do it yourself with a Predator.
Hope this helps!
Shop around for American Racing, Kooks, or LG headers and X pipe kits and buy the one that gives you the best buy. They are all very high quality and close in power output.
After installing each brand, I will say the American Racing installed the easiest (less than two hours to install!) as they did the best job of routing the individual tubes.
You need to decide if you are going to get hi-flow Cats in your X pipes, or go straight through. You may experience some fumes with straight through pipes and it will not pass a smog check. It is debatable, but hi-flow Cats probably lose very little HP. Even if you buy the X pipes with Cats, you may experience a check engine light caused by the rear O2 sensor not getting hot as quickly as when it was up very close to the exhaust port. You will need to have this tuned out, or do it yourself with a Predator.
Hope this helps!
I will def. be getting hi flow cats with the xpipe because I want to make sure that my car stays "street legal", I went through that crap with my H/C SS a couple years ago. Not doing that again!
I will def. be getting hi flow cats with the xpipe because I want to make sure that my car stays "street legal", I went through that crap with my H/C SS a couple years ago. Not doing that again!
Technically speaking LT's in general aren't street legal because they relocate the cats, right? Also I don't really care, just thought I'd let you know, I love my LT headers lol. I have Stainless Works which fit and perform excellent but I got a really good deal on them used, about $700 for headers and x-pipe. If I had to do it again though I would probably go LG.
I believe Kooks headers use the same flange for both 1 3/4" and 1 7/8". Whenever I need to measure a header to see what size the piping is, the flange ports are always the same for all the headers, and the piping is different sizes.
As for blocking the ports on the LS3...none of Kooks headers for the C6 block the ports. George R posted visual proof on this a while back.
Don't let people make out like having D-port gaskets, and D-port flanges will have any effect on performance. As long as the round port is bigger than the D-port (which it is on Kooks and SLP), you will never see a difference on a dyno or elsewhere. Anyway, even if the flange, and gasket were D-port they still go into a round primary..so WTF does it matter?