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Old Aug 29, 2008 | 10:48 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Rock'n Blue 08
Dennis, I run c-5 drilled and slotted rotors saves a pound or so each wheel. Then I got rid of the heavy runflats. I changed to PS'2. So each front Ps'2 saved 5 lbs each rear 7 pounds.
The tire is the because it's the biggest rotating weight on the car. About 30 pounds total.The weight reduction is big in two ways, one the shock has less to control, so handling and straight line performance.
i run the on the front ccw drag pack, back bfg drs with repro rims, i am going to get the back ccw rims and still use the bfg drs, that will help. but those red devil c5 rotors saves 51lbs rotating maybe i will hit the lottery,but i dont play it
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Old Aug 30, 2008 | 07:42 AM
  #42  
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If at all possible stay away from Drill, milled or cast in holes in rotors. No matter how thick the rotor side is, they will crack much sooner then latter.

Drilled and Slotted rotors are almost 50 year old technolgy that is no longer needed.

The original point to drilled rotors was to "out gass" from asbestosis brake pads in the 60s. Since asbestosis has not been used since the early 70s there is NO need for holes in rotors.

Do holes reduce wt? some what but also reduce brake surface by more then reduce wt. Plus drilled rotors increase the likelyhood stress starting points.

Why are Drilled rotors so popular? consumers want them, and that is the only reason so many manufactures have them. Marketing.









and the best, C6Z06 rotors with one hard 20 min race on




Brake rotors are consumable items. All will crack. Many sooner then latter. Dont spend BIG $$$ on brake rotors.

If your concerned about rotating mass, just put on the stock OEM C5 / C6 brake rotor. The Stock C6 caliper mounting braket and decent brake pads. You will stop much faster then most BBKs. the rotoing mass will be MUCH lighter, and your wallet will not be drained with usless stuff

Stick with the STOCK rotors and add brake cooling ducts, racing brake pads and DOT 4 brake fluid.

here is my set up



and I stop shorter, harder and have much better control then many BBKs. Yes I also use a 12" front tires for track days on a road race circuit.

Would I ever use a BBK. YES when the time is right. So far it hasn't been

Last edited by AU N EGL; Aug 30, 2008 at 08:29 AM.
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Old Aug 30, 2008 | 02:32 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by AU N EGL
If at all possible stay away from Drill, milled or cast in holes in rotors. No matter how thick the rotor side is, they will crack much sooner then latter.

Drilled and Slotted rotors are almost 50 year old technolgy that is no longer needed.

The original point to drilled rotors was to "out gass" from asbestosis brake pads in the 60s. Since asbestosis has not been used since the early 70s there is NO need for holes in rotors.

Do holes reduce wt? some what but also reduce brake surface by more then reduce wt. Plus drilled rotors increase the likelyhood stress starting points.

Why are Drilled rotors so popular? consumers want them, and that is the only reason so many manufactures have them. Marketing.
100%...I tell people that all of the time.
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Old Nov 29, 2009 | 04:09 PM
  #44  
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Great INFO!!! Great thread!! (except for a couple of toolbags)
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Old Nov 29, 2009 | 11:12 PM
  #45  
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stock rotors suck ***. one sides aero vanel face forward, other side backwards, so you have a difference in temp on one side of the car, not good. also the stupid holes just get plugged up with brake dust, which makes them completely useless. after a 20 min track session i just have gray dots on the rotors lol
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