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I've finally got the steering rack out of the way and am trying to take off the crank pulley to get access to my broken timing chain.
The car is on ramps, blocked, in reverse, with the ebrake tightly pulled. Without a flywheel clamp I realize that I'll need to take the slack out of the drivetrain first and I believe I've done that. What I've having an issue with is the fact that the pulley feels like it's on a spring. I only have access to pull about 90 degrees, but all that is taken up compressing this "spring" action. Then I don't have anywhere to go and my wrench is begging to go flying in the other direction. Why am I getting a "spring" effect?
I then decided to use the belt to wrap over itself and attach to the frame (as some have recommended). This seemed to work better as I didn't have to compressing the "spring", but resulted in sheering off the end of my crappy ratchet. Should I go out and buy a non-ratcheting breaker bar?
I had to use a 1/2" breaker bar and a 12 point socket to get to the point to when I had all of the slack taken out of the drivetrain, I still had useable range of motion to break the bolt loose. Get a quality socket and a decent breaker bar with a ~17" handle or so.
Yes. I'm assuming you don't have access to an impact and enough compressor to give her hell. That's how I get mine off and it works like a champ.
I feel like the gladiator telling you its frost on the blade, but its probably loc-tite if whoever assembled it did their job. I'd tell ya to heat the bolt a lil but there's a bunch that can go wrong there and I don't wanna be responsible. Let us know. Do get a big breaker bar of high quality along with an impact socket of the same quality and you should be able to get enough *** behind it to break free. Leverage is your friend. May the force, and a piece of pipe, be with you
I had to use a 1/2" breaker bar and a 12 point socket to get to the point to when I had all of the slack taken out of the drivetrain, I still had useable range of motion to break the bolt loose. Get a quality socket and a decent breaker bar with a ~17" handle or so.
Was the drivetrain springy at the limit? I would expect that once at the limit it would be firm. I wasn't able to get a good resistance. I will be getting a hold of a good breaker bar and I've got about 4' of extension if I need it.
From: Greater Detroit Metro MI, when I'm not travelling.
The slack is from clutch springs and rubber bushings throughout the drivetrain... It was not enough to prevent me from taking a breaker bar to it and getting it lose though...
I have to have someone stick a screwdriver into one of the bell housing access ports to brace the flywheel while I use a 1/2" breaker bar with my jack handle over it to get the bolt on/off. This gets rid of the drivetrain slack problem.
I have to have someone stick a screwdriver into one of the bell housing access ports to brace the flywheel while I use a 1/2" breaker bar with my jack handle over it to get the bolt on/off. This gets rid of the drivetrain slack problem.
I already poked around under there and didn't see any way for me to access it without taking off the starter. Where should I be looking for these access ports?
The GM procedure calls for a special tool that inserts into the flywheel after removing the starter. Disconnect and remove the starter.
Install the flywheel holding fixture J 42386-A.
Maybe you can manufacture a holding fixture on your own. You are going to run into an even bigger problem when you try to torque up the new bolt so properly addressing it now maybe the best course to take.
Since we are on the subject, can I suggest you pin the crank while you are in there? Since its apart its an easy job and really goes a long way towards keeping the bolt where it should be. 250 ft/lbs is the only insurance you have against the bolt walking out. I threw the balancer with the required tq and loctite head/cam only. Somethign to think about.
Since we are on the subject, can I suggest you pin the crank while you are in there? Since its apart its an easy job and really goes a long way towards keeping the bolt where it should be. 250 ft/lbs is the only insurance you have against the bolt walking out. I threw the balancer with the required tq and loctite head/cam only. Somethign to think about.
I've considered it, but am a bit worried about screwing it up. The idea of me of drilling the crank by hand... Maybe it's not as prone for error as I think it is...
Regardless, I've got to get things apart and see if the pistons are cracked or not. They actually might be in better shape than 1.8t's. We'll see one I get them cleaned.
Stop puttin' off buyin' that 1/2" drive air impact wrench you been wantin' ! ! !
Ingersoll Rand makes some nice ones - I have the Thunder Gun myself.
Without already owning a compressor this is not an economical option. Borrowing a compressor and gun would be a better idea... Anyone out there in Seattle have a compressor and gun they wanna loan out if my breaker bar doesn't do the trick?
From: Greater Detroit Metro MI, when I'm not travelling.
Originally Posted by gath47
I've considered it, but am a bit worried about screwing it up. The idea of me of drilling the crank by hand... Maybe it's not as prone for error as I think it is...
Regardless, I've got to get things apart and see if the pistons are cracked or not. They actually might be in better shape than 1.8t's. We'll see one I get them cleaned.
I did it by hand, on my back, using a 49 dollar Black And Decker cordless drill, and it came out absolutely perfect. It is EASY when you are using a crank pinning guide (basically a bolt with a really thick washer that has a guide hole in it): just wrap some tape around drill at the correct depth and you are good to go.
You can see me drilling it about 15 seconds into my supercharger install video
The GM procedure calls for a special tool that inserts into the flywheel after removing the starter. Disconnect and remove the starter.
Install the flywheel holding fixture J 42386-A.
Maybe you can manufacture a holding fixture on your own. You are going to run into an even bigger problem when you try to torque up the new bolt so properly addressing it now maybe the best course to take.
I used that method in '04 on my daughter's '99 Coupe and in '03 on my friend's '94 LT1, worked like a charm both times.
I told a forum member about it April of last year and he broke the belt.
It would still be my first choice, great job of illustrating it in your thread.