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Which puller (or type) do I need to get a hold of to get my harmonic balancer off? I don't want to rent one and find out that it doesn't work. Does it have to be the type to screw into the pulley, or can it be the type that grabs the back with arms? I've searched around and everyone just says use a puller, but not any details.
I've just realized that I might not have the stock pulley. Is this the stock pulley? This is what mine looks like:
I found this image that claims to contain the stock pulley. Is that what it looks like?
Which puller (or type) do I need to get a hold of to get my harmonic balancer off? I don't want to rent one and find out that it doesn't work. Does it have to be the type to screw into pulley, or can it be the type that grabs the back with arms? I've searched around and everyone just says use a puller, but not any details.
Your picture appears to depict an aftermarket underdrive pulley. In that case you should be able to use a standard puller using three bolts threaded into the pulley. The bottom picture shows what appears to be the correct pulley that requires the puller shown below.
Your picture appears to depict an aftermarket underdrive pulley. In that case you should be able to use a standard puller using three bolts threaded into the pulley. The bottom picture shows what appears to be the correct pulley that requires the puller shown below.
You need this puller it is Astro 78514:
I concur.
If there is any chance you might pull the pulley off again I would suggest the ARP pulley bolt. The GM bolt is a torque-to-yield bolt and should not be reused. The ARP pulley bolt can be reused.
The only thing I would add is to check the threads on the pulley you have. I've got to peoples' houses only to find out brand "x" pulley has bizarre threaded holes that do not conform to any of the bolts in any of my puller kits. So, make sure the kit you get either has bolts that will work, or get some grade 8s from the hardware store. Don't want to have to make multiple trips.
Interesting, the receipt from the work done on the car (by previous owner) does not include the UD pulley from MTI, but it certainly is the same one they sell. I had no idea! Who knows what else they might have done then, the chain might not have been stock either...
Thanks for the help on the puller. I'll see if I can get a fix on what type of threads are on the pulley before bringing anything home.
I assume that there is no relative orientation to the crank that has to be maintained. As it acts as more of a vibration damper than a "balancer", so no need to mark it's position for re-installation, correct?
The stock harmonic balancer (crank pulley) is definately used to balance the crank shaft. Not sure how an aftermarket balancer takes that into consideration if at all.
The stock harmonic balancer (crank pulley) is definately used to balance the crank shaft. Not sure how an aftermarket balancer takes that into consideration if at all.
The stock pulley/damper is NOT keyed and can go on in any orientation.
The best way of removing the damper and reinstalling the damper if to heat the HUB to about 150 deg with a wagner paint stripper gun. Makes pulley work a LOT easier!!
The dampner doesnt balance the engine but absorbs crank shaft vibrations that would cause premature bearing damage and crank shaft fatigue The rubber between the inner and outer portion of the dampner is tuned to absorb those vibrations.
The section of service manual on Page 6-83 talks about replacement of the crank pulley. The official name for the pulley is "Crankshaft Balancer."
Part of the procedure here:
Crankshaft Balancer Replacement
Tools Required
• J41816Crankshaft Balancer Remove
• J 41816-2 Crankshaft End Protector
• J 42386-A Flywheel Holding Tool
• J 41665 Crankshaft Balancer and Sprocket
Installer
• J 42386-A Flywheel Holding Tool
Removal Procedure
1. Remove the air conditioning (A/C) drive belt.
Refer to Drive Belt Replacement - Air Conditioning
on page 6-48.
2. Remove the power steering gear. Refer to Power
Steering Gear Replacement on page 2-26 in
Power Steering System.
3. Remove the starter motor. Refer to Starter Motor
Replacement on page 6-411 in Engine Electrical.
4. Remove the right transmission cover and "bolt.
Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice on page P-10 in
Cautions and Notices.
Important:
• For manual transmission applications, note the
position of the crankshaft balancer before
removal. The: balancer does not use a key or
keyway for positioning. Mark or scribe the end of
the crankshaft and the balancer before
component removal. The crankshaft balancer
must be' installed to the original position. If
replacing the crankshaft balancer, note the
location of any existing balance weights; if
applicable. Crankshaft balance weights must be
installed into the new balancer in the same
location as the old balancer. A properly installed
balance weight will be either flush or below
flush with the face of the balancer.
• Do not use the crankshaft balancer bolt again.
Install a NEW crankshaft balancer bolt during final
assembly.
Last edited by Walt White Coupe; Jan 13, 2009 at 02:19 PM.
If the crankshaft balancer/pulley must be installed as it was removed then what happens when a aftermarket pulley is installed. It reads as if the stock pulley is balanced after being installed on the motor.
I believe that's a true statement. For a manual shift engine, I believe the rotating mass of the balancer on the front of engine is used to fine tune the balance of the crankshaft with the flywheel, pressure plate and clutch system on the other end to reduce torsional harmonic vibrations that might occur.
I believe that the rotating mass on the back end of an automatic transmission engine is much less than a manual shift system. The flywheel is much lighter and the torque converter probably serves as a flywheel but is not directly bolted to the crankshaft but is splined to it so is isolated from the crankshaft system from a torsional vibration standpoint.
This is all that is bolted to the crank on an automatic car. Splines go to the propshaft. There is also a clamp not shown that goes around the splined area.
Sort of correct ........ the stock GM balancers sometimes has balance weights inserted into the holes. When I remove them from engines, I always mark the orientation of the balancer to the crank. That way it is installed back into the same orientation as how it came from GM. The aftermarket unit that was installed in the OPs engine, won't make any difference where it is installed in relation to the crank.
Thank everyone for the information. Anyone ever pulled an MTI (Houston) pulley? What did you use? What were the thread specs, etc? I've PMed an ex-MTI guy to see if he knows also...
Sort of correct ........ the stock GM balancers sometimes has balance weights inserted into the holes. When I remove them from engines, I always mark the orientation of the balancer to the crank. That way it is installed back into the same orientation as how it came from GM. The aftermarket unit that was installed in the OPs engine, won't make any difference where it is installed in relation to the crank.
Ok, we know the op has an aftermarket balancer so he's good to go, nothing he can do there.
However, as a learning exercise tj, do you know if GM was balancing the balancer, or if they actually put it on the rotating assembly and was balancing that? I find it hard to believe the latter, but Walt's post sort of leans in that direction.
My stuff is all balanced albeit apart. In theory if the rotaing assy is balanced, then so is your clutch and flywheel assy then you are good. But, we all know how theories work out sometimes. My motor sees 7k so I was concerned, but not too concerned so as to have everything balanced together.
Ok, we know the op has an aftermarket balancer so he's good to go, nothing he can do there.
However, as a learning exercise tj, do you know if GM was balancing the balancer, or if they actually put it on the rotating assembly and was balancing that? I find it hard to believe the latter, but Walt's post sort of leans in that direction.
My stuff is all balanced albeit apart. In theory if the rotaing assy is balanced, then so is your clutch and flywheel assy then you are good. But, we all know how theories work out sometimes. My motor sees 7k so I was concerned, but not too concerned so as to have everything balanced together.
I'm interested to see how far GM goes.
I have a powerbond UD PULLEY. It has several holes in it so i would assume it is in balance. It also has a keyway that I would assume is
to be used for pinning it to the crank. Im trying to find a inexpensive pinning kit. I know magnuson wants $120.00 for the KIT. There must be a cheaper way?