If you want to go faster on the track, driver mods and better tires will do more than higher horsepower. Get some professional instruction and complete a few HPDE's before jumping into engine mods. You might save yourself some money.

However, if you want to drive up to the "show & shine" with 1000 hp to brag about, then go for it!

Pursuit of happiness!!

 

With the HP you're producing from your SC do you have a big problem with traction? It sounds more and more like a SC may be the ticket!

 

Not really into the whole bragging bit. My car is for me and I like to go fast. I'm totally into the getting prof. help thing. I'd gladly go to a good driving school and probably will before I go adding a to of power to my car. More to save me money to keep from crashing...

 

One of us is poorly informed - and it isn't me. (and I've got the dyno sheets to prove it).

It's not my intention to start a pissing contest with you, but you are giving out inaccurate information. Rather than argue, why don't you stop by the FI/N20 section where the high RWHP gang congregates and observe a little!




This gentleman knows of what he speaks!

I'd advise you to go with a supercharger and make around 600 RWHP with no other mods. Let us know which route you take!

 

Your opinion of me. Opinions vary; most opinions made based off of miniscule information is suspect to say the least

I do not wish to urinate with or near you, nor with any other man for that matter

I think his thread has been hijacked enough; if you wish to further your urination feel free to pm me. I am no stranger to big cubes OR direct-port nitrous systems (since I have both ).

To the original OP: a dynamometer is a TOOL with which to measure performance changes from modification to modification. Just a friendly reminder that it, like many OTHER tools, can be manipulated

Good luck with whatever you decide.

 

Consider both.........a mild blower cam will provide desired torque prior to the SC "kicking in" and sounds mean as hell to

My cam provided an increase in power from 1200-5400 RPM's (or somehwere there about). My blower kicks in about 4.5 psi (RPM may vary). You will have traction issues and suggest changing your std rubber to Invo's or similar - it will ceratinly make a little difference.

The proper, conservative tuning and added fuel flow will protect your engine. You may also want to look into an upgrade on your valve components.

 

The challenge with these great cars is getting focused on what YOU actually want to do, come up with a plan, and then implement it.

You want to go fast, but what does that mean to YOU. The car as stock can travel three times the allowable speed limit in most areas of the country, but doing so will cost you fines, higher insurance, and maybe your (or someone elses) life.

If you want to go fast at the dragstrip, there are specific things that you can do to optimize your performance for that specific type of event. Then it becomes a balance between horsepower, traction and reaction time.

If you want to go fast on an autocross course, the car prep is significantly different than for drag racing. Tires and suspension and wheel alignment are more important than engine mods.

If you want to go fast on a road course and participate in HPDE's and/or wheel to wheel racing, safety equipment, brakes, cooling, tires, suspension and seat time will make your times improve much more than added FI or heads and cam. A good set of headers and a good tune will serve you well for a long time before your times are being held back by a lack of horsepower.

Unfortunately, focusing on driver mods and safety equipment aren't nearly as "Sexy" as building a 700 hp motor.

I don't want to "pee on your parade" I'm just offering a few things for you to think about (based on what YOU stated were your goals) before you drop $10,000 in engine mods.

 

I have to agree with this. And I'd suggest at LEAST 10 HPDE days before adding a S/C to the mix.

1. If bad things are going to happen, they are going to happen MUCH faster the more HP you have.

2. Heat is a pretty serious issue at HPDEs. S/Cs add heat. If you car is stock now, it will be easier to monitor it's reaction to HPDE. Get used to what is "normal" before changing it.

3. It will give you perspective to decide what you want from the car in terms of mods. It should help decide N/A, S/C or stock.

Don't get me wrong. You can absolutly run a S/C'ed car at a racetrack. All I am saying is: Don't put the cart before the horse. Even the BEST drivers on the street benefit from the experience of being on the track.

 

This man speaks the truth. Every word is spot on.

 

I've got at least a year before I add anything to the engine. I want to get at least 2 years of use before I void the engine with mods, just in case anything goes wrong. In that time I do plan on attending some driving classes, though I'm really not all that interested in autocross or road course racing. I do plan on some track time, I enjoy going fast on old back roads in East TX near my deer lease (deserted with no cross streets & miles of open empty roads), & I enjoy the occasional spirited cruise with other vette owners. I'd really like to find a track where I could top the car out, but I can't seem to find one around here.

Thanks for the info & advice.

 

I hope I helped!

You should lurk around on the autocross / road race forum. There is a large group of Texas drivers, Texas events and Texas tracks where classes and HPDE's are held.

Regardless of what you decide, driving a Corvette at or near it's limits is a BLAST!!

 

Yes and no. The traction problem is blown out of proportion by people who try running run flat tires with high HP cars, or by people who lack (or just haven't yet acquired) the skills to drive a high HP car.
I never tried running the blower with run flats; I had Michelin Pilot Sport PS2s in stock sizes (245F 285R); they are not race tires, but for a street tire, they are phenomenal. The first couple of days I drove the car after blower, it was raining VERY hard, and yes, obviously, any kind of heavy throttle in 1st 2nd and 3rd gear would spin the tires. You do it a few times, realize how much gas you can give it before that happens, and just shift the car early... I daily drive the car all winter long like that; it is safe and gets great gas mileage Wheelspin is as bad in winter as it is in the rain: when the roads get down to 30 degrees or so I can roll into the throttle in 3rd gear and have the tires light right up at 80MPH . That is not NEARLY as cool as it may sound, btw.
On a warmer day though (70F+) I can roll into the gas in 2nd gear and put it all the way to the floor as long as the road is dry and reasonably good. If you've only been in a stock C6, "Fast" doesn't even describe it. 3rd hooks up 100% of the time. 1st gear is tricky; you just have to get used to pushing the gas pedal down gradually.
99% of the time when I am driving my car, it is already moving... As long as I am going over 30-40MPH or so I can use all the power the supercharged engine makes... That's why I think the traction problem is blown out of proportion. A standing start in 1st gear on worn run flat tires would certainly make you think otherwise though.

Honestly my only regret about supercharging is that I waited this long to do it. It is not for everyone, but it definitely works for me