You can see my mods in my profile. I am also lowered on aftermarket bolts. I am running MT ET Streets 26 11.50 17 and can't still seem to cut a good 60'. My best is a 1.78. Is there anything suspension wise I need in order for me to catch traction and cut a better 60'? I tried leaving at no more than 3500 rpms and still seem to spin. I have tried easing out and punching it. Nothing works.

 

You might have better luck with this question in the drag racing section.
Removing/disconnecting the front stabilizer bar and 90/10 shocks on the front are a couple of tricks but beware of compromises to handling. Also, lowering the rear more than the front will improve anti-squat geometry and provide better weight transfer.
I'm sure you'll get more/better responses in the drag racing section but these should get you going.

 

Mickey Thompson tires are very finicky when it comes to how you do your burnouts and what tires pressures you run.

With your first burnout of the day you should see lots of smoke but your subsequent ones need only be long enough to just barely see smoke or you can feel your engine sound like it’s starting to bog which means the tires are getting sticky.

As for tire pressures, I’ve found that 23.5 psi is my so-called “sweet spot” (yours will probably be different) and being off by as little as one pound either way can turn what would have been a 1.5x 60ft into a 1.6x one and I’d also recommend checking your tire pressures before each run. Some people measure them only once when they first get to the track, but I’ve seen the values jump by 2-3 psi after a good long burnout so I’ve always gotten the best (and most consistent) 60ft times by measuring them at least once every pass.

The other thing that might help with respect to the tires is switching to Street ET Radials instead of bias ply. I bought a set of bias ply last spring thinking they would hook better since they looked more like slicks but that wasn’t the case. When I talked to the tech guy at Mickey Thompson afterwards, he confirmed that the radials generally hook better than the bias ply which I confirmed when I switched back to radials the next week and immediately started getting better times.

As for removing the front stabilizer bar, I tried that too but it made no difference in either either the consistency of my times or helping to lower them.

One final suggestion is to try staging your car very shallow. The general rule of thumb is that your car will run up to a tenth slower by staging deep and this also has an effect on your 60ft times (however by a smaller amount). When I stage the car I usually drive up until I see the pre-stage light come on and then immediately stop. I then proceed to inch the car forward in very small increments until I see the second light come on. It sometimes takes 6-7 little “bumps” to finally move forward enough but I usually end up with better times as a result, both in my 60ft and ETs.

Hope some of this helps,
Christopher

 

thanks for some of the advice everyone...i have tried mt et street radials...they don't hook near as good as my et streets...i'll try some of the stuff ya'll have suggested as well as post this in the drag section

andrew

 

From my experience, the ET streets like lower pressure(13-14psi)...granted I've never launched a twin disc, but was making less power cam only w/ ls6 clutch and cut low 1.6x w/ only 4-4500rpm launches on 2yr old M/T w/ stock supension. I noticed you're local, Ennis opens next weekend, when you going back out? We could meet up out there as soon as my new clutch is broken in and I could give you some tips in person(it's easier to see/listen/feel what the cars doing)...Chris

 

Hey Chris, I believe andrew is going out to ennis on the 7th when it opens... I will be there too, as long as my car is out of the shop. Would be cool to meet up.

 

just got confirmation that i am off of work on that day...i'll be out at ennis on the 7th!!!!!