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I was making a few runs and my car just died on me. It happened when I shifted into third about to shift into 4th. The engine just died and would not start. I rolled to a stop and tried to restart it and nothing. I waiting a few mins and it fired right up. When it cut off the car flashed me with "Reduce Engine Power". I made another run after this and no problem. I never had this happen to me and would like to know what could be the cause or if this has happen to anyone else.
I was running my "track setup".
45PSI in front tires
23PSI in rear tires
Traction off.
Anymore info, see my sig.
I was making a few runs and my car just died on me. It happened when I shifted into third about to shift into 4th. The engine just died and would not start. I rolled to a stop and tried to restart it and nothing. I waiting a few mins and it fired right up. When it cut off the car flashed me with "Reduce Engine Power". I made another run after this and no problem. I never had this happen to me and would like to know what could be the cause or if this has happen to anyone else.
I was running my "track setup".
45PSI in front tires
23PSI in rear tires
Traction off.
Anymore info, see my sig.
i have had this happen when less then 24lbs in the rear tires, i have also had it happen with a 160 t stat and not letting the operating temp reach 167 in a number of cycles
i have had this happen when less then 24lbs in the rear tires, i have also had it happen with a 160 t stat and not letting the operating temp reach 167 in a number of cycles
I like the idea of the canister you built. "Set it and forget it." Less than 25 psi is where the trip point is so a pressurized canister will solve all your tire
pressure codes & torque management.
Was there any CEL or did a MIL (malfunction indicator lamp) light up? I'd use a code reader to check for any stored fault codes and/or have a technician do a diagnostic on the car using a scan tool. I'm guessing there are numerous 'engine control' malfunctions that could cause reduced power mode from a simple sensor to an ECM problem. I'm guessing your engine wasn't overheated either. If you don't have a code reader I believe most AutoZone stores will check for codes free of charge.
With those tire pressures that's got to be a drag strip setup. Are you using tire pressure sensors? Those tire pressures are pretty 'extreme' both on the low and high ends...excessively low/high TPS readings can trigger active handling but I don't think it would trigger reduced power mode.
I once had a mysterious loss of power. I was going down a fairly steep incline from the staging grid onto a road course...at the bottom of the hill just before going on track the engine just cutoff. I don't recall any 'warning' indicators and I wasn't in reduced power mode. I quickly restarted the car the ran the session without any further problems. The problem never happened again so I just figure it was some transient glitch.
Was there any CEL or did a MIL (malfunction indicator lamp) light up? I'd use a code reader to check for any stored fault codes and/or have a technician do a diagnostic on the car using a scan tool. I'm guessing there are numerous 'engine control' malfunctions that could cause reduced power mode from a simple sensor to an ECM problem. I'm guessing your engine wasn't overheated either. If you don't have a code reader I believe most AutoZone stores will check for codes free of charge.
With those tire pressures that's got to be a drag strip setup. Are you using tire pressure sensors? Those tire pressures are pretty 'extreme' both on the low and high ends...excessively low/high TPS readings can trigger active handling but I don't think it would trigger reduced power mode.
I once had a mysterious loss of power. I was going down a fairly steep incline from the staging grid onto a road course...at the bottom of the hill just before going on track the engine just cutoff. I don't recall any 'warning' indicators and I wasn't in reduced power mode. I quickly restarted the car the ran the session without any further problems. The problem never happened again so I just figure it was some transient glitch.
Good luck...let us know what you find out.
Does the engine shut down if lack of oil pressure/level detected? Steep incline might explain(except for the lack of warnings), but to the OP, you wouldn't think sufficient G forces in a drag pass to lose prime on the oil unless real low. I know not likely, but just a thought
I was on a level surface. Oil pressure, water temps, fuel, etc...everything looked fine.
I've used this tire pressure setup at the drag strip plenty of times so I wouldn't think it had anything to do with it.
I have a scanner and i was trying to scan the car last night but for some reason the car was being stubborn and wouldn't pick up the scanner. I'm going to give it another shot in a few mins. I posted a thread about the scanner problem in the "Scan/Tune" section of the forum.
Ok. Looks like I'll have to wait till i get my hands on another scanner. My car doesn't seem to detect the dang PC-based scanner. I've used this one plently of times before. I guess today isn't a good day.
Has anyone ever had problems with using a scanner. The problem i have is that it failed to communicate with the car. I've rechecked connections and everything is fine.
Ok I pulled the codes today. I think it was P0171 & P0172. It's Bank 1 and bank 2 too lean. My car idles fine so i don't think i have a vacum leak resulting in air that the MAF is not picking up.
Normaly the reduced power mode is triggered by a throttle by wire issue. The Throttle position sensor, accelerator position sensor, Throttle blade/motor issue or a Throttle Actuator Controller module issue are what will set that off.
Thats where I would look first.
I purchased a ACTRON 9180 code scanner. Its CAN BUSS compatable so it works well on the C6. It is an advanced scanner and has the ability to data log. You can read O2 sensors and LTFT and STFT and a bunch of other sensor data. It even reads throttle position data I purchased it off the internet for $140
CP9180 AutoScanner® Plus encompasses many professional features in an inexpensive scan tool. Compatible with ALL 1996 and newer vehicles (OBD II), the AutoScanner Plus includes the following features:
Displays and records live cehicle data
Bilingual Tool: English and Spanish menu options
Displays freeze frame data - engine data at the time of the fault
Large, backlit screen
Updateable via the internet
OBD II code library built into tool
Displays O2 monitor test
State OBD II Check (emissions)
OBD II drive cycle mode
Battery powered for review of vehicle data off vehicle
PC compatible with ability to print
Vehicle information (includes VIN
and calibration IDs)
Includes
CP9180 handset
OBD II cable
USB cable
Soft Case
Professional Companion CD
OBD-II coverage includes CAN (Controller Area Network),
Thanks for the tips Bill. I'll be sure and start there.
I actually have two scanners. One is a handheld scanner and the other is a far more advanced PC based scanner. My interface on the PC scanner wasn't working so I used my other scanner.
yesterday i was driving my car and the same thing happened to me suddenly the car died on me and didn't start again, i think you have to check for the ignition dynamo as well cuz my friend also got the same problem and it was wire loose
Same thing happened to me about a year ago on my 07 with 5600 miles on it. I took it to the dealership and they diagnosed it as a bad ECM. The service manager is a friend of mine so there was no "BS" involved. He said the ECM "cooked" itself. He said he has seen this issue before in a few of the C6's and Caddy's, and alot more specifically in cars that have been "improperly" tuned. Mine is all stock except for an SLP exhaust, K&N filters, Skip-Shift. Good luck!
Ok I pulled the codes today. I think it was P0171 & P0172. It's Bank 1 and bank 2 too lean. My car idles fine so i don't think i have a vacum leak resulting in air that the MAF is not picking up.
What do you guys think?
Mine did the same thing, codes and all when I was starting to run too high on my injector duty cycle and my A/F went to high at wide open throttle. I commanded an even richer WOT A/F in my tune and promptly purchased bigger injectors, no problems since...
Mine did the same thing, codes and all when I was starting to run too high on my injector duty cycle and my A/F went to high at wide open throttle. I commanded an even richer WOT A/F in my tune and promptly purchased bigger injectors, no problems since...
Do you think my car is running out of fuel already? I don't even have a cam yet. I only have boltons.
If I check all the sensors and they turn out to be ok, do you think the car is in need of a tune already?
Do you think my car is running out of fuel already? I don't even have a cam yet. I only have boltons.
If I check all the sensors and they turn out to be ok, do you think the car is in need of a tune already?
That would be my guess. I doubt youre out of injectors at this point, but it might not be too far down the road if you have full bolt on's. With a stock intake and throttle body but with cam and ported 243's I was seeing 118% duty cycle regularly...
I start the car and let it idle. I give a few revs and let it idle again. 30 seconds later and it just cuts off. It's doing this over and over. It's happening when i'm driving and come to a light and 10 seconds later at the light it dies.
I'm going to scan the car again and see if there's any additional codes thrown. All I did was flush the radiator and pour new coolant in the car.