harmonic balancer install tool?
#1
Burning Brakes
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harmonic balancer install tool?
Where can I buy a balancer install tool? There used to be a guy on ls1tech that was making/selling them, but he seems to be out of the game.
What are my other options? Who makes the correct tool?
Thanks,
Doug
What are my other options? Who makes the correct tool?
Thanks,
Doug
Last edited by m6z; 11-24-2009 at 05:06 PM.
#2
Easiest option....preheat the oven to 250 and warm that puppy up for about 20-30 minutes. It will expand just enough to allow you to get about 50% or better of the balancer on with only a very very light tap of a rubber hammer. Pull it the rest of the way on with the old crank bolt before it cools completely and it's an easy install.
Last edited by Motorhead-47; 11-24-2009 at 02:19 PM.
#3
Melting Slicks
Like motorhead said, you can heat it up in the oven if it won't go on easily.
To tighten the bolt up, just put it in gear with a manual tranny. When I did my automatic, I used the accessory belt like so:
Worked like a charm.
To tighten the bolt up, just put it in gear with a manual tranny. When I did my automatic, I used the accessory belt like so:
Worked like a charm.
#4
Le Mans Master
Big threaded rod, nut, washers, and an appropriate-diameter deep socket as a spacer. You'll need to go to a metric specialist for the rod.
#5
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St. Jude Donor '08
I used an OLD DAMPER BOLT and cut the head off of it. Then I welded that (metric thread) to a standard SAE piece of ALL THREAD. Works like a champ. I agree 100% with the pre heating of the damper hub. It makes the job SOOOOO much easier!!
To get the old damper OFF easy, I use a propane torch or a wagner paint stripper heat gun to get the damper hub about 150 degrees. It comes off a lot easier. I will post pics of the home made damper tool later to night when i get home.
BC
To get the old damper OFF easy, I use a propane torch or a wagner paint stripper heat gun to get the damper hub about 150 degrees. It comes off a lot easier. I will post pics of the home made damper tool later to night when i get home.
BC
#7
Safety Car
i have a set of pullers bolts. Its kinda like that except you fully seat the center bolt and then use a nut with a bearing adapter. The difference is that it uses the nut and bolt to pull it on and doesnt have a chance of damaging the crank. If you heat it up more then likely it will go on most of the way just make sure when tightening you have a bunch of threads in the crank so you dont pull them out.
#8
Burning Brakes
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I'd like to purchase the correct tool. My buddy just snaped the bolt off in the crank of his ls2 using the bolt and washers method. Does any one know where I can buy the tool? I know several people have got buy with the the bolt method, just really don't want to chance it.
#11
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St. Jude Donor '08
Heres the one I made and it works perfect:
The strap wrench in the picture does a really good job holding the damper so the crank doesnt rotate during torquing and breaking the bolt loose.
BC
The strap wrench in the picture does a really good job holding the damper so the crank doesnt rotate during torquing and breaking the bolt loose.
BC
#13
Race Director
The last time I had to remove/install a balancer was on my SRT4 and Autozone had a"free" rental tool. Credit card imprint and a signature and refunded when you bring the tool back.
#14
Burning Brakes
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I'm going to check all the local places tonight. Hopefully some one has one I can rent, if not I'll just order one.
#15
Don't bother with the Autozone loaner program balancer install tool. Although it has an adapter with the correct thread size/pitch (M16/2.0), the threaded portion is not long enough to be useful.
#16
Le Mans Master
After the pulley is seated, the install procedure calls for torquing the new bolt to 240lb-ft before turning it 140deg.
I found that with the engine in gear there was still too much wind-up in the drivetrain to swing a torque wrench in there, so I used the flywheel-locker tool.
I found that with the engine in gear there was still too much wind-up in the drivetrain to swing a torque wrench in there, so I used the flywheel-locker tool.
#17
After the pulley is seated, the install procedure calls for torquing the new bolt to 240lb-ft before turning it 140deg.
I found that with the engine in gear there was still too much wind-up in the drivetrain to swing a torque wrench in there, so I used the flywheel-locker tool.
I found that with the engine in gear there was still too much wind-up in the drivetrain to swing a torque wrench in there, so I used the flywheel-locker tool.
Last edited by Motorhead-47; 11-25-2009 at 12:13 PM.
#18
Melting Slicks
Are you sure on those numbers? I believe the 240lb-ft number is what is used with the old crank bolt to fully seat the pulley. You then toss the old bolt and install the new bolt using a modest 37lb-ft followed by the 140 degrees if I remember correctly. I'd question whether it is even possible to get 140 degrees after torqueing to 240lb-ft!
#19
Le Mans Master
Are you sure on those numbers? I believe the 240lb-ft number is what is used with the old crank bolt to fully seat the pulley. You then toss the old bolt and install the new bolt using a modest 37lb-ft followed by the 140 degrees if I remember correctly. I'd question whether it is even possible to get 140 degrees after torqueing to 240lb-ft!
But my point was that even with the car in gear, there's so much wind-up in the system that you can't swing a torque wrench in there. I had to use the flywheel locker in order to do it.
Incidentally, even starting from 37 lb-ft., turning the bolt 140 degrees is incredibly hard.
#20
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St. Jude Donor '08
That is where the STRAP WRENCH comes into play! It worked excellent! The crank shaft didnt move at all!!!