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harmonic balancer install tool?

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Old 11-24-2009, 10:33 AM
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m6z
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Default harmonic balancer install tool?

Where can I buy a balancer install tool? There used to be a guy on ls1tech that was making/selling them, but he seems to be out of the game.

What are my other options? Who makes the correct tool?

Thanks,
Doug

Last edited by m6z; 11-24-2009 at 05:06 PM.
Old 11-24-2009, 01:24 PM
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Motorhead-47
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Easiest option....preheat the oven to 250 and warm that puppy up for about 20-30 minutes. It will expand just enough to allow you to get about 50% or better of the balancer on with only a very very light tap of a rubber hammer. Pull it the rest of the way on with the old crank bolt before it cools completely and it's an easy install.

Last edited by Motorhead-47; 11-24-2009 at 02:19 PM.
Old 11-24-2009, 02:56 PM
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Like motorhead said, you can heat it up in the oven if it won't go on easily.

To tighten the bolt up, just put it in gear with a manual tranny. When I did my automatic, I used the accessory belt like so:





Worked like a charm.
Old 11-24-2009, 03:06 PM
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torquetube
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Originally Posted by m6z
Where can I buy a balancer install tool? There used to be a guy on ls1tech that was making/selling them, but he seems to be out of the game.

What are my other options?

Thanks,
Doug
Big threaded rod, nut, washers, and an appropriate-diameter deep socket as a spacer. You'll need to go to a metric specialist for the rod.
Old 11-24-2009, 03:16 PM
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Bill Curlee
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I used an OLD DAMPER BOLT and cut the head off of it. Then I welded that (metric thread) to a standard SAE piece of ALL THREAD. Works like a champ. I agree 100% with the pre heating of the damper hub. It makes the job SOOOOO much easier!!

To get the old damper OFF easy, I use a propane torch or a wagner paint stripper heat gun to get the damper hub about 150 degrees. It comes off a lot easier. I will post pics of the home made damper tool later to night when i get home.

BC
Old 11-24-2009, 03:22 PM
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Ok, just made my decision easy. If I do a cam, it will be out sourced...
Old 11-24-2009, 03:27 PM
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i have a set of pullers bolts. Its kinda like that except you fully seat the center bolt and then use a nut with a bearing adapter. The difference is that it uses the nut and bolt to pull it on and doesnt have a chance of damaging the crank. If you heat it up more then likely it will go on most of the way just make sure when tightening you have a bunch of threads in the crank so you dont pull them out.
Old 11-24-2009, 05:04 PM
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I'd like to purchase the correct tool. My buddy just snaped the bolt off in the crank of his ls2 using the bolt and washers method. Does any one know where I can buy the tool? I know several people have got buy with the the bolt method, just really don't want to chance it.
Old 11-24-2009, 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by timd38
Ok, just made my decision easy. If I do a cam, it will be out sourced...
Chicken.
Old 11-24-2009, 05:25 PM
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http://www.handsontools.com/Kent-Moo...r_p_16251.html

Hope this helps!

Signed
Chicken

Last edited by timd38; 11-24-2009 at 06:07 PM.
Old 11-24-2009, 06:02 PM
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Heres the one I made and it works perfect:



The strap wrench in the picture does a really good job holding the damper so the crank doesnt rotate during torquing and breaking the bolt loose.



BC
Old 11-25-2009, 07:48 AM
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Originally Posted by 'VETTE PHASE
Chicken.
The install is straightforward...the tune is the hard part.
Old 11-25-2009, 09:43 AM
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The last time I had to remove/install a balancer was on my SRT4 and Autozone had a"free" rental tool. Credit card imprint and a signature and refunded when you bring the tool back.
Old 11-25-2009, 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by haljensen
The last time I had to remove/install a balancer was on my SRT4 and Autozone had a"free" rental tool. Credit card imprint and a signature and refunded when you bring the tool back.
I'm going to check all the local places tonight. Hopefully some one has one I can rent, if not I'll just order one.
Old 11-25-2009, 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by m6z
I'm going to check all the local places tonight. Hopefully some one has one I can rent, if not I'll just order one.
Don't bother with the Autozone loaner program balancer install tool. Although it has an adapter with the correct thread size/pitch (M16/2.0), the threaded portion is not long enough to be useful.
Old 11-25-2009, 11:59 AM
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Originally Posted by 'VETTE PHASE
To tighten the bolt up, just put it in gear with a manual tranny.
After the pulley is seated, the install procedure calls for torquing the new bolt to 240lb-ft before turning it 140deg.

I found that with the engine in gear there was still too much wind-up in the drivetrain to swing a torque wrench in there, so I used the flywheel-locker tool.
Old 11-25-2009, 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by torquetube
After the pulley is seated, the install procedure calls for torquing the new bolt to 240lb-ft before turning it 140deg.

I found that with the engine in gear there was still too much wind-up in the drivetrain to swing a torque wrench in there, so I used the flywheel-locker tool.
Are you sure on those numbers? I believe the 240lb-ft number is what is used with the old crank bolt to fully seat the pulley. You then toss the old bolt and install the new bolt using a modest 37lb-ft followed by the 140 degrees if I remember correctly. I'd question whether it is even possible to get 140 degrees after torqueing to 240lb-ft!

Last edited by Motorhead-47; 11-25-2009 at 12:13 PM.

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Old 11-25-2009, 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Motorhead-47
Are you sure on those numbers? I believe the 240lb-ft number is what is used with the old crank bolt to fully seat the pulley. You then toss the old bolt and install the new bolt using a modest 37lb-ft followed by the 140 degrees if I remember correctly. I'd question whether it is even possible to get 140 degrees after torqueing to 240lb-ft!
This is the correct procedure.
Old 11-25-2009, 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Motorhead-47
Are you sure on those numbers? I believe the 240lb-ft number is what is used with the old crank bolt to fully seat the pulley. You then toss the old bolt and install the new bolt using a modest 37lb-ft followed by the 140 degrees if I remember correctly. I'd question whether it is even possible to get 140 degrees after torqueing to 240lb-ft!
You're right, I should have written torque the OLD bolt to 240, then follow procedure to install the new one.

But my point was that even with the car in gear, there's so much wind-up in the system that you can't swing a torque wrench in there. I had to use the flywheel locker in order to do it.

Incidentally, even starting from 37 lb-ft., turning the bolt 140 degrees is incredibly hard.
Old 11-25-2009, 06:59 PM
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That is where the STRAP WRENCH comes into play! It worked excellent! The crank shaft didnt move at all!!!



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