Bent Driveshaft!! Help.
01-30-2010, 01:51 AM
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Bent Driveshaft!! Help.
So I pulled my diff, trans, torque tube to replace bearings, pilot bearing, and rubber couplings in my '06 Z06 because of a clutch issue. Come to find out, Im pretty sure the drive shaft is bent. I have obvious runout out of front end of torque tube that can be seen with the naked eye and spinning shaft by hand. Any suggestions on where to buy shaft?
Josh
Josh
01-30-2010, 02:00 AM
#2
Racer
Thread Starter
I mean the splined shaft from the clutch (end rests in pilot bearing) to the first rubber coupling is bent. Hopefully drive shaft is ok. Any ideas on where to get that shaft?
01-30-2010, 01:43 PM
#4
Melting Slicks
01-30-2010, 02:55 PM
#5
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Oct 2005
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it's just your coupler,you can bend it back by hand to align it,thats why they're rubber,when bolted together they align up with the pilot bearing.replace them with the alluminum ones,or atleast go with the Zr1 coupler.
01-30-2010, 03:22 PM
#6
Burning Brakes
This is what I plan on getting after(before) a future Magnuson Supercharger install......fun stuff!
02-17-2011, 12:41 PM
#7
Le Mans Master
doesnt the shaft ride on a bearing? if so how is there movement?
02-17-2011, 02:25 PM
#8
Former Vendor
02-17-2011, 03:53 PM
#11
Le Mans Master
02-17-2011, 06:06 PM
#12
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Oct 2007
Location: Greater Detroit Metro MI, when I'm not travelling.
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The front has a pilot bearing, but the shaft itself is supported by two rubber couplings:
Coupling detail:
THe shaft can move a degree or so because of the rubber couplings. They also absorb driveline impact...
My suggestion, should the shaft really be bent, and assuming this is a high HP car that gets raced and will bend another OEM driveshaft, would be to get either an aftermarket aluminum driveshaft for $800, like this one:
Or you can cought up $1500 and get a Carbon Fiber driveshaft like this one
PFADT also makes one, theirs is 2 grand though.
You save about 4lbs with the CF shaft.
Coupling detail:
THe shaft can move a degree or so because of the rubber couplings. They also absorb driveline impact...
My suggestion, should the shaft really be bent, and assuming this is a high HP car that gets raced and will bend another OEM driveshaft, would be to get either an aftermarket aluminum driveshaft for $800, like this one:
Or you can cought up $1500 and get a Carbon Fiber driveshaft like this one
PFADT also makes one, theirs is 2 grand though.
You save about 4lbs with the CF shaft.
02-17-2011, 06:39 PM
#13
Le Mans Master
The front has a pilot bearing, but the shaft itself is supported by two rubber couplings:
Coupling detail:
THe shaft can move a degree or so because of the rubber couplings. They also absorb driveline impact...
My suggestion, should the shaft really be bent, and assuming this is a high HP car that gets raced and will bend another OEM driveshaft, would be to get either an aftermarket aluminum driveshaft for $800, like this one:
Or you can cought up $1500 and get a Carbon Fiber driveshaft like this one
PFADT also makes one, theirs is 2 grand though.
You save about 4lbs with the CF shaft.
Coupling detail:
THe shaft can move a degree or so because of the rubber couplings. They also absorb driveline impact...
My suggestion, should the shaft really be bent, and assuming this is a high HP car that gets raced and will bend another OEM driveshaft, would be to get either an aftermarket aluminum driveshaft for $800, like this one:
Or you can cought up $1500 and get a Carbon Fiber driveshaft like this one
PFADT also makes one, theirs is 2 grand though.
You save about 4lbs with the CF shaft.
AH! very informative Sam!
like pics
so to see a 30~thousands runout is not an issue. without seeing one apart i could visualize how it could move if it road on a bearing.
02-17-2011, 08:29 PM
#14
Le Mans Master
back by hand? tried, no way i moved it even a little bit.
02-17-2011, 08:37 PM
#15
Former Vendor
Once you bolt the torque tube back up to the bellhousing and the input shaft goes in the pilot bearing everything will be lined up fine. I have only seen a bent input shaft as a result from a front end collision where the bellhousing is busted. 
03-14-2016, 05:53 PM
#16
I know this is an old thread but I'm haveing the same issue. 2001 C5 Z06 w/T56
I dropped the rear and removed the torque tube to replace a bad Slave cylinder.
After removing the torque tube I inspected everything and when turning the front splined shaft by hand I see a very noticable whobble. It's not a huge amount but enought that I don't see how this would not cause premature pilot bearing failure, or worse.
I priced just the front splined shaft and the chevrolet dealer wants $700 for just the front shaft. I pulled the torque tube apart to inspect the inside couplers and they look perfect.
The car only has 53k miles. Never involved in any kind of collision and I don't know if the torque tube has ever been removed. But I'm wondering if anyone has had to deal with this issue before and what the conclussion and end results were?
Any help is very greatly appreciated.
Joe
I dropped the rear and removed the torque tube to replace a bad Slave cylinder.
After removing the torque tube I inspected everything and when turning the front splined shaft by hand I see a very noticable whobble. It's not a huge amount but enought that I don't see how this would not cause premature pilot bearing failure, or worse.
I priced just the front splined shaft and the chevrolet dealer wants $700 for just the front shaft. I pulled the torque tube apart to inspect the inside couplers and they look perfect.
The car only has 53k miles. Never involved in any kind of collision and I don't know if the torque tube has ever been removed. But I'm wondering if anyone has had to deal with this issue before and what the conclussion and end results were?
Any help is very greatly appreciated.
Joe
03-14-2016, 09:14 PM
#17
Melting Slicks
I know this is an old thread but I'm haveing the same issue. 2001 C5 Z06 w/T56
I dropped the rear and removed the torque tube to replace a bad Slave cylinder.
After removing the torque tube I inspected everything and when turning the front splined shaft by hand I see a very noticable whobble. It's not a huge amount but enought that I don't see how this would not cause premature pilot bearing failure, or worse.
I priced just the front splined shaft and the chevrolet dealer wants $700 for just the front shaft. I pulled the torque tube apart to inspect the inside couplers and they look perfect.
The car only has 53k miles. Never involved in any kind of collision and I don't know if the torque tube has ever been removed. But I'm wondering if anyone has had to deal with this issue before and what the conclussion and end results were?
Any help is very greatly appreciated.
Joe
I dropped the rear and removed the torque tube to replace a bad Slave cylinder.
After removing the torque tube I inspected everything and when turning the front splined shaft by hand I see a very noticable whobble. It's not a huge amount but enought that I don't see how this would not cause premature pilot bearing failure, or worse.
I priced just the front splined shaft and the chevrolet dealer wants $700 for just the front shaft. I pulled the torque tube apart to inspect the inside couplers and they look perfect.
The car only has 53k miles. Never involved in any kind of collision and I don't know if the torque tube has ever been removed. But I'm wondering if anyone has had to deal with this issue before and what the conclussion and end results were?
Any help is very greatly appreciated.
Joe
