PowerLabs' Battery Relocation!
Last edited by PRE-Z06; Mar 12, 2010 at 01:22 AM.




If you think it is that easy, I have a few physics and math books you an use while I search for reference to "battery relocation weight transfer " articles.
Having built drag race cars that lift the front wheels on the launch I can say you are 100% wrong. The use of the term 'fulcrum' is correct and it takes into account all the forces working on an accelerating car.The battery cant be moved far enough back to get the weight transfer needed to get the weight fully onto the rear wheels due to the C6's wheel base length. The battery weight as you said earlier in this thread not being 'over the rear wheels' shows you don't understand the concept. The battery itself in this case, is not being used as the actual weight pushing down on the wheels but rather to make the fulcrum closer to the rear wheels. By the way, any weight you add to the car rear of the rear wheels is 100% on the rear wheels.
The fulcrum is meant to be just in front of the rear wheels so that is the pivot point where all the force is on the leading edge of the contact patch. The proof that its not too far back is that the front wheels aren't lifting before the cars break traction with the battery in either location. If the tires are spinning, the battery hasnt been moved too far back.
For a drag race car, the battery being as far back as it can be placed is best.
In our cars there are two plausible places to put the battery: in the engine compartment (in the stock location) or the rear compartment on the passenger side. Having done everything I can for traction on my car north of 800rwhp, I find from having factually put it in the back, traction is better and the nose feels lighter. I dont know if a position other than the rear compartment is more optimum but I know I'm not putting it higher up in the center of the hatch area or some other silly area that is visible, interferes with the storage of the hatch, and raises the center of gravity. So I apologize for implying that the battery is optimum placed and I guess maybe I should have said of these two locations, the rear compartment is best.
Last edited by SpinMonster; Mar 12, 2010 at 05:56 AM.
Question: I am having my hardbar penske 8200 coilovers upgraded with the 16 way Piggyback canisters to adjust dampening. the rear canisters i had in mind to place in the cubbies...is it a good idea to put both the canister and the battery in that one cubbie????
thanks
).... seriously, you guys consumed with run times ever consider reducing your own weight to enhance corvette performance?


The stock battery is not 44lbs, it is in fact 35lbs.

When I purchased the braille 15lb battery, I weighed the stock battery several times because I also thought the stock battery was over 40+lbs. So the weight saving on this posters application is very small for the 21lb battery along with the battery relocation. Still, it is weight savings, little, but every little bit counts.





).... seriously, you guys consumed with run times ever consider reducing your own weight to enhance corvette performance?That's not a belly, it's a battery for a Love Machine




The stock battery is not 44lbs, it is in fact 35lbs.

So the weight saving on this posters application is very small for the 21lb battery along with the battery relocation. Still, it is weight savings, little, but every little bit counts.
That's very true. Of course there is the possibility that Powerlabs had a much heavier/non stock battery in there already as well...though yes, your math would certainly apply for the average C6 owner with a stock GM/AC Delco battery that would be attempting this mod.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
V/D from all that cable. I think I would have went regular battery.
Little heavy but stronger output!


).... seriously, you guys consumed with run times ever consider reducing your own weight to enhance corvette performance?

How much disadvantage (1/4 mile time) does an identical car to yours have with a 256 lb driver? I guess we can start handicapping drivers like we do jockeys at the horse track...
BTW, didn't mean to hijack this thread - I admire your mod.

How much disadvantage (1/4 mile time) does an identical car to yours have with a 256 lb driver? I guess we can start handicapping drivers like we do jockeys at the horse track...
BTW, didn't mean to hijack this thread - I admire your mod.
Well, the general rule of thumb is a tenth (0.1 seconds) for every 100 lbs you add or take away. So a stock LS3 Vette might run a 12.5 with a heavy guy driving instead of a 12.4. Driver skill would make a much bigger difference, IMO.
Andy
As far as the driver making the difference is concerned: The driver makes ALL the difference.
So, hit the Nutri-System diet, move your battery to the rear of the car, burn off all excess fuel and you will Change your 12.7 car into an 11.7 car.

Maybe your done but just did not post your observations on the new ZR-1
Cam and new found performance.


The build is going great; I will start driving it next weekend. 500 miles of break in though, so it'll be a while till I can say anything about the performance...











