When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Ok, so I can get a set of Kooks LT's/X installed locally for roughly $1655 or I can buy a set of LG's/X on e-bay for $999 + $150 for shipping. What should I do? Is there a significant difference that justifies the almost $500 price difference? Please post your opinions....
Ok, so I can get a set of Kooks LT's/X installed locally for roughly $1655 or I can buy a set of LG's/X on e-bay for $999 + $150 for shipping. What should I do? Is there a significant difference that justifies the almost $500 price difference? Please post your opinions....
Is Ebay going to install your LG's? The install cost should be part of your price difference.
Is Ebay going to install your LG's? The install cost should be part of your price difference.
No, but the local shop is a friend, I know the install price will not be $500..... I'm just trying to understand why there is such a huge difference in pricing? Am I missing something?
I didn't mean to be a smartazz but was just pointing out that you didn't include install costs in your LG's. Both companies make great headers. Be sure your Kooks price is quoted without cats because the LG's you ref'd are cat-less. That could be a big part of the difference. One of the big Kooks vendors on the forum includes Jet-Hot coating in their price...that's worth something.
To date I have used all 3 companies best headers Kooks 1 3/4, LG 1 3/4, and AR 1 7/8.
My findings are that they are all great systems and all have a different area of best performance.
LG's definitely make a difference in the low end. I picked up 34rwtq at 3500rpm on my head cam car at the time swapping out the Kooks.
The Kooks 1 3/4 and the AR 1 7/8 both made a few more HP up top. I would have had no issue gioing with Kooks this time around but Nick at AR got back to me first. The advantage of these two headers is that they are not slip fits like the LG systems are. If you put the car together and wont be tinkering with cylinder head changes this is irrelevant but if you're like me, who changes heads a few times a year, slip fits are the devil.
1 7/8 primaries definitely have an advantage in a higher power, higher revving engine but the average guy looking for low end punch on a 500rwhp street car would be served well with the LG 1 3/4.
A word of caution for those not comfy with modding/cutting on permanent parts of the car, the AR 1 7/8 required a small section of metal to be notched to get them in. I am very happy with the final install but old guys who think such mods kill the value of a stock car dont opt for 1 7/8.
EDIT: Nick from AR called me to remind me that he factually told me on the phone that the 1 7/8 doesnt require this modification 99% of the time. Due to honesty he felt it was nec to tell me due to one or two other cars needing to roll this lip (not cut as I did). I was fast to cut it and it was pretty close to call. Dont feel that this is an issue for the vast majority of cars out there. I too feel it it was nec to report that I did it to my car.
As far as the 3-4 hp up top of the rev range, if you think thats enough to decide for you, thats opinion. Area under the curve is better served with what works with your combo. I found that L92's like the LG's and kooks 1 3/4 on the stock cammed LS3 work fine. High rpm FI cars (over 700rwhp will see 10rwhp more with 1 7/8 but at those rpms, its all wheel spin anyway so I wouldnt pay for anything up top that comes with a penalty down low on an FI car. Some cars see no penalty down low so the theory it loses low end car is combo dependent.
Last edited by SpinMonster; Mar 29, 2010 at 05:37 PM.
A quick check at Maryland Speed shows 1 3/4" Kooks with x-pipe and JetHot coating going for right at $1,400.00 shipped. I'm a Kooks fan....hate slip joints on headers.
St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
You do know we offer 1 7/8" and 1 3/4" now as well right?
As for slip fits, well the race car is all slip fit, and it gets torn apart every other weekend. If you plan on taking the car apart that often, then use a little bit of copper anti-seize on the slips to make the connections much easier to deal with. Of course if you are not doing this, just bolt it down and go.
Our Ebay page has a number of different systems listed from the Street Series all the way to the Super Pro's so be sure to compare apples to apples.
As always, always glad to answer any questions I can!
To date I have used all 3 companies best headers Kooks 1 3/4, LG 1 3/4, and AR 1 7/8.
My findings are that they are all great systems and all have a different area of best performance.
LG's definitely make a difference in the low end. I picked up 34rwtq at 3500rpm on my head cam car at the time swapping out the Kooks.
The Kooks 1 3/4 and the AR 1 7/8 both made a few more HP up top. I would have had no issue gioing with Kooks this time around but Nick at AR got back to me first. The advantage of these two headers is that they are not slip fits like the LG systems are. If you put the car together and wont be tinkering with cylinder head changes this is irrelevant but if you're like me, who changes heads a few times a year, slip fits are the devil.
1 7/8 primaries definitely have an advantage in a higher power, higher revving engine but the average guy looking for low end punch on a 500rwhp street car would be served well with the LG 1 3/4.
A word of caution for those not comfy with modding/cutting on permanent parts of the car, the AR 1 7/8 required a small section of metal to be notched to get them in. I am very happy with the final install but old guys who think such mods kill the value of a stock car dont opt for 1 7/8.
As far as the 3-4 hp up top of the rev range, if you think thats enough to decide for you, thats opinion. Area under the curve is better served with what works with your combo. I found that L92's like the LG's and kooks 1 3/4 on the stock cammed LS3 work fine. High rpm FI cars (over 700rwhp will see 10rwhp more with 1 7/8 but at those rpms, its all wheel spin anyway so I wouldnt pay for anything up top that comes with a penalty down low on an FI car.
Okay, so now I have my Kooks 1 3/4 coated hdrs/x and Hf cats and I should see what tq down low ? A few ponies at the top , I am not there too often so i hope I made the right choice. Still deciding on what CAI. I thought with everything being ceramic coated maybe I don't need to cut my shroud. What about that BBK CAI or Halltech or K/N. Ithink I will eventually do a SpinCam once I understand A little more . I want it to come on STRONG at 3500rpm and highter.
TIA
FYI there is another option coming to town in the form of Borla very soon. My car was the guinea pig and I'll be heading in for a tune on Cunningham Motorsports dyno very soon. I previously had another set of headers on my car so the comparison should be interesting.
Well, I'm the kind of guy that likes a lot of torque throughout the area under the curve at low to mid RPM's.....which is why I'm saving my green-backs for a set of Jet-Hot coated LG's....fun stuff!
You do know we offer 1 7/8" and 1 3/4" now as well right?
As for slip fits, well the race car is all slip fit, and it gets torn apart every other weekend. If you plan on taking the car apart that often, then use a little bit of copper anti-seize on the slips to make the connections much easier to deal with. Of course if you are not doing this, just bolt it down and go.
Our Ebay page has a number of different systems listed from the Street Series all the way to the Super Pro's so be sure to compare apples to apples.
As always, always glad to answer any questions I can!
Well, I'm the kind of guy that likes a lot of torque throughout the area under the curve at low to mid RPM's.....which is why I'm saving my green-backs for a set of Jet-Hot coated LG's....fun stuff!