Trick flow install underway


The torque does not get to 400 before 3800 RPM. The 102 has longer runners and
may gain some low end torque. would like to see the low end of the curve lifted as opposed to picking up some HP at peak. You all have seen the Pics of the port mismatch with the 92 at the bottom of the runner. The sides of the Head runner
were cleaned up just to remove the shoulders and the 102 is a near natural port match
with no shoulder at the bottom of the runner and Im strictly talking about using the TF's
Last edited by LSCHLEM; May 27, 2010 at 07:31 AM. Reason: Typo


The torque does not get to 400 before 3800 RPM. The 102 has longer runners and
may gain some low end torque. would like to see the low end of the curve lifted as opposed to picking up some HP at peak. You all have seen the Pics of the port mismatch with the 92 at the bottom of the runner. The sides of the Head runner
were cleaned up just to remove the shoulders and the 102 is a near natural port match
with no shoulder at the bottom of the runner and Im strictly talking about using the TF's


TRICK FLOW and my TUNER assure me that the bottom of the runner mismatch is but little consequence on making power. The 102 broke during install ans we got a new one coming in then out for agressive porting.


TRICK FLOW and my TUNER assure me that the bottom of the runner mismatch is but little consequence on making power. The 102 broke during install ans we got a new one coming in then out for agressive porting.


rwhp from the 102. The tests I did see were not A/B tests. I originally
felt the 92 was damaged from overporting and felt I lost potential power
from that and I felt movitated to get a new 102. I see those LS2's making the same HP/TQ running the 102 as those who ran the 92. The only difference is we have a few 525 RWHP LS2 H&C Cars out there running the 92 , DYNOJET TESTED and backed up by 130 mph + Track runs. Now that I will have two PORTED Manifolds I can do the test
and sell the lesser of the two and buy something else that will help the
Car perform a little better.
rwhp from the 102. The tests I did see were not A/B tests. I originally
felt the 92 was damaged from overporting and felt I lost potential power
from that and I felt movitated to get a new 102. I see those LS2's making the same HP/TQ running the 102 as those who ran the 92. The only difference is we have a few 525 RWHP LS2 H&C Cars out there running the 92 , DYNOJET TESTED and backed up by 130 mph + Track runs. Now that I will have two PORTED Manifolds I can do the test
and sell the lesser of the two and buy something else that will help the
Car perform a little better.
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Cars. I used a new 102 that I got from COMP because of all the problems that manifest from leaks cant easily be found and really once its on the car we rely on the fuel trims for the indication of a leak. Some may
spray alcohol or soap solution which is a good idea to spray around the mating surfaces and watch for a change on the scan tool or even a vac gauge. What I did was made this inexpensive test jig with a Fitting, 4"
Metal plate and some duct tape. Of course I had A VAC Punp that I used
in Air conditioning work.
A quick look at the manifold the way it comes from the Factory shows that
its bolted together at the front and rear of the Manifold and appears to be
warped in the middle as shown in pic #1 . This time I put the rest of the bolts in and tightened them by hand and the upper shell and lower shell should be pretty much flush together as to not get a .010" Feeler gauge
between the upper and lower shell all the way around.
Last edited by LSCHLEM; Jun 1, 2010 at 12:40 PM. Reason: Continuation


with VAC Caps. Then I put Gorilla Tape over the runner exits and plugged the injector holes. At this point the manifold is ready to be leak tested.
If you look at pics #2 & 3 you can see the plate is sucked against the throttle body opening and does not need any screws to hold the plate on.
I set the Vac pressure to 15" HG then I can go around and check the entire body, mating surfaces with alcohol. If there is a slight leak the gauge will bounce immediately or even whistle. The plastic body underside will flex under 15" of VAC and if there are any cracks they will show up. After a few minutes the duct tape will start to cave in and form leaks around the runner exits and you can see what a small leak will do and if it
happens when installed on the Car you will pretty much know you did not get a good seat on the runner O RINGS or a sloppy MAP SENSOR hole,
Purge vent lines, Brake hose in rear but will be much easier to find. Here
are the pics of the Jig.


with VAC Caps. Then I put Gorilla Tape over the runner exits and plugged the injector holes. At this point the manifold is ready to be leak tested.
If you look at pics #2 & 3 you can see the plate is sucked against the throttle body opening and does not need any screws to hold the plate on.
I set the Vac pressure to 15" HG then I can go around and check the entire body, mating surfaces with alcohol. If there is a slight leak the gauge will bounce immediately or even whistle. The plastic body underside will flex under 15" of VAC and if there are any cracks they will show up. After a few minutes the duct tape will start to cave in and form leaks around the runner exits and you can see what a small leak will do and if it
happens when installed on the Car you will pretty much know you did not get a good seat on the runner O RINGS or a sloppy MAP SENSOR hole,
Purge vent lines, Brake hose in rear but will be much easier to find. Here
are the pics of the Jig.











