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Here is the deal...I just ordered some headers, intake and corsa for my '10 GS a6. I work at a Chevy dealership so I get the hook up on parts and install stuff. I am debating on getting a cam from GM's Performance Parts Catalog...the cam is from GM's LS 376/480 engine. This engine, as stated, is the same exact engine as the LS3 but with a hotter cam. They state in the catalog that idle and cruise are the exact same while adding 50 hp...so I can't go wrong, I think. I was thinking about going ahead and getting it so when I get my header/intake tune...I could get the cam tune in also and save some $$ from two tunes. Here is the thing, I have NEVER done a cam swap on any of my vehicles in the past...
What do I need to look out for?
Will the cam affect the longevity of the tranny, engine ect...? I don't take the car to the strip but I DO like to have fun periodically.
This IS my daily driver so I wouldn't want any serious issues even though I work at a Chevy dealership...
Thanks for your advice!!!!!!
Scott
If you mean warranty issues resulting from a tune.....all cams require a tune.
As to what works with your A6 and a stcok stall, use a:
224XFI/224XFI 115LSA, 0 degrees advance.
Its a custom comp cams grind and makes about 460rwhp, 505-510 flywheel, on your car. Any bigger will require a higher stall and will have minor bucking at 1600rpms.
I have headers, CAI, Ported Throttle Body, and tune. It made a massive difference in performance. Once you crack open the engine you lose a ton of trade in value. You can also remove all of the above and put the tune back ot stock and get full trade in value. I have debated a CAM for a while but finally settled on leaving the car the way it was. If I still felt like I needed that much more power I would get a Z06 and put the tune, CAI, and Headers and Exhaust on it and be at 500 Rwhp in a car that was designed to handle that kind of power. If you are a power nut then go for a supercharger. It will cost more but give you a ton more horsepower and you will keep all the driveability.
Here is the deal...I just ordered some headers, intake and corsa for my '10 GS a6. I work at a Chevy dealership so I get the hook up on parts and install stuff. I am debating on getting a cam from GM's Performance Parts Catalog...the cam is from GM's LS 376/480 engine. This engine, as stated, is the same exact engine as the LS3 but with a hotter cam. They state in the catalog that idle and cruise are the exact same while adding 50 hp...so I can't go wrong, I think. I was thinking about going ahead and getting it so when I get my header/intake tune...I could get the cam tune in also and save some $$ from two tunes. Here is the thing, I have NEVER done a cam swap on any of my vehicles in the past...
What do I need to look out for?
Will the cam affect the longevity of the tranny, engine ect...? I don't take the car to the strip but I DO like to have fun periodically.
If you mean warranty issues resulting from a tune.....all cams require a tune.
As to what works with your A6 and a stcok stall, use a:
224XFI/224XFI 115LSA, 0 degrees advance.
Its a custom comp cams grind and makes about 460rwhp, 505-510 flywheel, on your car. Any bigger will require a higher stall and will have minor bucking at 1600rpms.
the gm hot cam actually has more overlap than the cam Spin suggested, therefore you'd hear the "lope" more...the only benefit of doing the hot cam is you don't have to upgrade the valvesprings, but you are leaving a lot of power on the table as the ls3 heads really flow well with higher lift lobes
St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
Remember he has an automatic, so there are other things to deal with on those.
With the auto's you have to watch what you are doing with the cam or like Spin said you are going to have to do something with the torque converter on the car, they just can not simply handle a big cam that requires a high idle and things of that nature, at least not and drive right.
Any cam is going to kill the warranty, GM cam or not, especially right now when they are looking for anything to void it.
There are a handful of cams out there that you can use with a stock converter in the car. We have a few, like our GX6E, that typically gain 30-40 rwhp over stock, have a very mild lope, and work well with the OE converters. Past that and you will need to be looking at a higher stall and a HD transmission cooler to go along with it.
the hotcam will not have a stock like idle. you are going to have a 850 rpm plus idle in park and a 800 rpm pluss idle in drive. that cam is hard to tune. i know i have the ls3 with hotcam in my trailblazer ss.
the hotcam will not have a stock like idle. you are going to have a 850 rpm plus idle in park and a 800 rpm pluss idle in drive. that cam is hard to tune. i know i have the ls3 with hotcam in my trailblazer ss.
Duff: Please tell me more! Why is it hard to tune?
I am looking for more power, but I do not want that wild "lope"...also, the GM cam doesn't require any "other" mods to install their cam...it is a CAM ONLY install...I like that....Anthony at LG, please chime in.
Duff: Please tell me more! Why is it hard to tune?
I am looking for more power, but I do not want that wild "lope"...also, the GM cam doesn't require any "other" mods to install their cam...it is a CAM ONLY install...I like that....Anthony at LG, please chime in.
Scott
Quality valve springs/pushrods/retainers are cheap insurance. Don't pick the hotcam just to avoid $400-500 in valve train parts.
The advice you just got from LG and Spin you should listen to.
St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
Even with the Hotcam you are going to have to do springs on it.
Make sure what ever cam you do, the valve train is equally upgraded to take the larger camshaft. Springs, pushrods, and timing chain should all be looked at.