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My Blown 2008 C6 Diffrential!

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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 04:18 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by vettedoogie
I think any differential is breakable.
My friends run Ford 9" and they are bullet-proof. I've seen them in 1,000+ HP cars and they last forever. Of course, the Ford differential will not work on a C6.
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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 08:16 AM
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the damage may have started on a previous run,,,and decided to let go on this one,,,,
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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 08:54 AM
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So you are putting more power to the ground that GM intended, and launching the car rather aggressively and you are upset at GM that the car broke???? You gotta pay to play bro. Stuff like this happens when you mod cars and drive them hard. An RPM Level 5 trans (TR6060 will be fine for your HP level) and diff will be perfect for you.
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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 10:54 AM
  #24  
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^
^
Already paid more than $40k for the car, I didn't buy toyota Yaris to lunch it very soft

my point is GM has already built a strong diff on z06, why they didn't implemented in the C6? Many guys reported the C6 Diff failure even on light modded car!

my car is not heavily modded, no supercharger,no turbos, no heads, no NOS, no drag racing, no track, never lunched from a dig (zero)! so Im curoius about how the diff transfer case broke like this!

Other cars as mentioned by LBear have seen +700 wrhp without any single issues on rear end!

--------------

Thank you guys for your comments,
Im seeking now the diff to be built from RPM (stage III)

For the tranny, what do I need to exactly replace? bearings and mainshaft?
is it good to upgrade to new upgraded T56 or upgraded TR6060 (TR6060 is the stock)?

Im seeking for more power in future but don't want this scenario to be repeated again with my vette

lot of money now should go for the charges for new cores (diff + tranny) + upgrading cost + shipping internationally
(Any shop you recommend & can provide a good special deal deal for upgraded diff & tranny?)

I'm open to your suggestions/recommendation

Thanks a lot guys

---------------
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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 11:42 AM
  #25  
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Based on the video noticed different style rear wheels suggesting you were runnin drag radials...Yes? If so, that set up (even with stock stock engine) is a death sentence for the C6 rear end... basically Vettes really are not designed for drag racing (unlike Ford Mustangs and their solid axel rear ends) and any time you go drag racing you are chancing rear end failure. Even the Vettes with front trannies and rear diff set up have weak links...friend of mine has a nicely set up C4 ZR-1 and he goes to the drags and pops rears spindles like they are made of wood.

Michael
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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 01:43 PM
  #26  
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Muhammed,

I had similar problems with my differentials. Wheel hop was the culprit. After breaking 2 differentials, I went with DTE’s top of the line (almost, no oil cooler connections in the differential) differential and no more breakage problems. In addition to the new differential, I got the DTE transmission brace, pfadt differential brace and QA1 adjustable shocks. DTE also recommended I change to polyurethane bushings, but have not done that yet. This combination has lasted about 2 years experiencing some severe, but short wheel hop. As for the transmission, mine is still stock, but I would contact DTE for a recommendation. DTE has never let me down and I am very satisfied with their advice. Also, the tires you use makes a big difference. Drag RADIALS are certain death for differentials. Their sidewalls are too stiff to absorb the shock of hard launches and gear changes. Bias ply ties like Mickey Thompson ET Streets will do a much better job of hooking and will absorb much of the shock. I’m sure others will have different advice, but it should be similar to what I have said.

Good luck,

Clayton
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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 03:50 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by LV Vette
Muhammed,

I had similar problems with my differentials. Wheel hop was the culprit. After breaking 2 differentials, I went with DTE’s top of the line (almost, no oil cooler connections in the differential) differential and no more breakage problems. In addition to the new differential, I got the DTE transmission brace, pfadt differential brace and QA1 adjustable shocks. DTE also recommended I change to polyurethane bushings, but have not done that yet. This combination has lasted about 2 years experiencing some severe, but short wheel hop. As for the transmission, mine is still stock, but I would contact DTE for a recommendation. DTE has never let me down and I am very satisfied with their advice. Also, the tires you use makes a big difference. Drag RADIALS are certain death for differentials. Their sidewalls are too stiff to absorb the shock of hard launches and gear changes. Bias ply ties like Mickey Thompson ET Streets will do a much better job of hooking and will absorb much of the shock. I’m sure others will have different advice, but it should be similar to what I have said.

Good luck,

Clayton
Drag radial sidewalls are not "too stiff".. they are WAY softer that the stock runflat sidewalls. The reason a car wheelhops with drag radials is because it hooks up and then as quickly unhooks. It's unfortunately what happens when you put a tire on your car in expectation of cutting a quick 60' time and getting the best traction possible. Don't expect to put a drag radial on your stock car (no matter what it is) and expect it to live long. Too many people here put mods into their cars and don't know why or what to expect afterwards. Once something goes wrong it's gotta be GM's fault for building a crappy car.
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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 04:11 PM
  #28  
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The engineers designing this car were under strict instructions to reduce weight. The 2005 differential is even weaker than your 2008. They realized it was too weak and upgraded it in 2006. Your 2008 differential was designed to work behind the 2006 400HP LS2. It is already marginal behind a stock LS3 (and you proved it)!

The Z06 differential is larger and stronger, but the only gear available is the stock 3.42. Some folks are installing lower gears in the Z, but they are the smaller C6 gear sets.

Talk to RPM and DTE about both the rear and the trans. You will learn from their experience and can then decide which way to go.
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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 05:25 PM
  #29  
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When I first got my GS I hit the drag strip just for a couple quick runs, have a little fun. I was blown away by the severe wheel hop, even with Comp Mode launches... so I have to side with the OP here a little in terms of pointing a finger at GM. If they never meant the car to drag race, why do they have comp mode for launching it and additionally, if he really just has a cam and tune and that, coupled with wheel hop the car exhibits from the factory will break the diff, then GM should really put some more effort there, or remove the Comp Mode launches and state you are not to do that with the car. Honestly.

Who buys a factory hot rod that isn't into performance and probably some modding? Mustang guys, Camaro guys, Challenger guys, and us Vette dudes... if you are really a car guy you will want to start with a great car and make it a bit better. GM knows this... everybody knows this, since about 1966, 1 yr after the first pony car.

So typical mods should not blow a diff IMHO. +200HP, yeah, maybe I could see it but that is still lame IMO; I haven't blown a factory diff in any car I have ever owned, including porting heads, cams, headers, tunes... the typical gamut of stuff guys like us do. I went up over +200HP above stock on an old mustang with an 8" rear and never ever had an issue with that diff... note not a 9", old school 8" and I even had wheel hop a couple times after the mods and never blew it up. And when I fixed the rear suspension it didn't hop - knowing how to stop that isn't new either, tho' I don't want GM to focus on making the Vette a drag car... it is supposed to be a corner carver.

I could see blowing a CV joint, but a diff should always be stronger than the CV - who makes the diff the weak point???? I've broken a few CVs on my Porsche race car before upgrading them, that should be the weak link.
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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 08:34 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by C6FirstVette
Based on the video noticed different style rear wheels suggesting you were runnin drag radials...Yes? If so, that set up (even with stock stock engine) is a death sentence for the C6 rear end... basically Vettes really are not designed for drag racing (unlike Ford Mustangs and their solid axel rear ends) and any time you go drag racing you are chancing rear end failure. Even the Vettes with front trannies and rear diff set up have weak links...friend of mine has a nicely set up C4 ZR-1 and he goes to the drags and pops rears spindles like they are made of wood.

Michael
Yeah Im running Toyos r888
but the breaking done as in the video when rolling 50km
how about if it was from a dig ? the whole tranny will fly probably along with the diff!

This is my 1st Vette, I owaned a 07 Nismo 350z and V6 Altima and an LS1 Caprice (holden specs) before that.

so I conclude this is a common issue only with the vettes? or it's probably occurs more with the vettes than any sport production car.

Thank you Micheal
------------------------

Muhammed,

I had similar problems with my differentials. Wheel hop was the culprit. After breaking 2 differentials, I went with DTE’s top of the line (almost, no oil cooler connections in the differential) differential and no more breakage problems. In addition to the new differential, I got the DTE transmission brace, pfadt differential brace and QA1 adjustable shocks. DTE also recommended I change to polyurethane bushings, but have not done that yet. This combination has lasted about 2 years experiencing some severe, but short wheel hop. As for the transmission, mine is still stock, but I would contact DTE for a recommendation. DTE has never let me down and I am very satisfied with their advice. Also, the tires you use makes a big difference. Drag RADIALS are certain death for differentials. Their sidewalls are too stiff to absorb the shock of hard launches and gear changes. Bias ply ties like Mickey Thompson ET Streets will do a much better job of hooking and will absorb much of the shock. I’m sure others will have different advice, but it should be similar to what I have said.

Good luck,

Clayton
two diff broke with you, I see even with TJ from RPM he said to me when I email him with the diffrential failure, he told me check also the tranny as many other c6 owners reported the tranny got some damges when the diff fails!!

Do you see this is really normal thing for C6 or vettes in general ?

Thanks a lot Clayton and hope everything is ok now with you, thanks for the suggestions, i will have a look into it with pfadt.
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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 08:49 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Robls6
Drag radial sidewalls are not "too stiff".. they are WAY softer that the stock runflat sidewalls. The reason a car wheelhops with drag radials is because it hooks up and then as quickly unhooks. It's unfortunately what happens when you put a tire on your car in expectation of cutting a quick 60' time and getting the best traction possible. Don't expect to put a drag radial on your stock car (no matter what it is) and expect it to live long. Too many people here put mods into their cars and don't know why or what to expect afterwards. Once something goes wrong it's gotta be GM's fault for building a crappy car.
I agree with you, the sidewalls are softer than the runflats OEM tires!
but if you see many successfull diff last longer or forever in heavly modded cars (else than GM), then we can blame GM little bit or in other words we can say they didn't put good work on it.

Maybe this is from my limited knowledge, but I didn't see anybody upgrades the whole diff assembly in order to let it last especially for non draggers or vehicles that doesnt exceeds 500 hp or so! any thing less should the stock handle it, and Im talking about the LS3 here rated for 426 hp from the factory!

non draggers or vehicles that doesn't exceeds 500hp
I have always seen them touch the diff in order to change the gears (e.g 3.73 or 3.91 or 4.10 ,,etc)

Thanks Robls6

------------------------------

The engineers designing this car were under strict instructions to reduce weight. The 2005 differential is even weaker than your 2008. They realized it was too weak and upgraded it in 2006. Your 2008 differential was designed to work behind the 2006 400HP LS2. It is already marginal behind a stock LS3 (and you proved it)!

The Z06 differential is larger and stronger, but the only gear available is the stock 3.42. Some folks are installing lower gears in the Z, but they are the smaller C6 gear sets.

Talk to RPM and DTE about both the rear and the trans. You will learn from their experience and can then decide which way to go.
So we can say the diff is little weaker on C6 than the z06?
and even for the 2005 was worse? thanks for this info dude.

I know the car is modded and maybe becasue of the sticky tires but also we can blame a little GM for the weak diff they build for the vettes, as I said I didnt buy a vette to let it stock and go to the beach,
little modification should not harm the diff at all in a sport car like this!

Already in contact with them, waiting for some qoutes $$

Thanks Vito.A
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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 08:56 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by WHITE_SHARK
Yeah Im running Toyos r888
but the breaking done as in the video when rolling 50km
how about if it was from a dig ? the whole tranny will fly probably along with the diff!

This is my 1st Vette, I owaned a 07 Nismo 350z and V6 Altima and an LS1 Caprice (holden specs) before that.

so I conclude this is a common issue only with the vettes? or it's probably occurs more with the vettes than any sport production car.

Thank you Micheal
------------------------



two diff broke with you, I see even with TJ from RPM he said to me when I email him with the diffrential failure, he told me check also the tranny as many other c6 owners reported the tranny got some damges when the diff fails!!

Do you see this is really normal thing for C6 or vettes in general ?

Thanks a lot Clayton and hope everything is ok now with you, thanks for the suggestions, i will have a look into it with pfadt.



You gotta understand that most of the diff failures you hear about are on the 2005 models that came from the factory with a diff that seemed to be built of glass. The 2006+ version is a lot better, but it is still an independent differential not a solid axle 9" Ford.

Speaking of 9" Fords, I blew apart the stock Traction Lock differential case on the 9" that I had in my '68 Camaro. This was with full street tires, ~420 hp and a Tremec 5-speed. I was spinning the tires a bit in 1st, and when I hit 2nd the tires grabbed and BOOM! It was like I was in neutral after that. I had to wait for a flatbed

My point is that even the most robust differential can be broken. There is always a weak link. You have to realize that the C6 diff was designed for no more than 400 RWHP. With your mods, you are probably putting out more than a stock Z06 and are running much stickier tires.

From a 30 MPH roll (50 KM), the stock tires would just spin and the diff would be safe. I have the same car ('08 Z51 manual) with similar mods putting out ~460 rwhp. My stock supercars will not hook at that speed. Getting a car to dead-hook with that much power is the killer.

Sorry to hear what happened, but like others said- you gotta pay to play. I hope my diff doesn't blow up, but if it does I understand I'm going to be paying up for a better one. It's all part of the game when you start adding power.

Andy
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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 08:56 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by CyberGS
When I first got my GS I hit the drag strip just for a couple quick runs, have a little fun. I was blown away by the severe wheel hop, even with Comp Mode launches... so I have to side with the OP here a little in terms of pointing a finger at GM. If they never meant the car to drag race, why do they have comp mode for launching it and additionally, if he really just has a cam and tune and that, coupled with wheel hop the car exhibits from the factory will break the diff, then GM should really put some more effort there, or remove the Comp Mode launches and state you are not to do that with the car. Honestly.

Who buys a factory hot rod that isn't into performance and probably some modding? Mustang guys, Camaro guys, Challenger guys, and us Vette dudes... if you are really a car guy you will want to start with a great car and make it a bit better. GM knows this... everybody knows this, since about 1966, 1 yr after the first pony car.

So typical mods should not blow a diff IMHO. +200HP, yeah
, maybe I could see it but that is still lame IMO; I haven't blown a factory diff in any car I have ever owned, including porting heads, cams, headers, tunes... the typical gamut of stuff guys like us do. I went up over +200HP above stock on an old mustang with an 8" rear and never ever had an issue with that diff... note not a 9", old school 8" and I even had wheel hop a couple times after the mods and never blew it up. And when I fixed the rear suspension it didn't hop - knowing how to stop that isn't new either, tho' I don't want GM to focus on making the Vette a drag car... it is supposed to be a corner carver.

I could see blowing a CV joint, but a diff should always be stronger than the CV - who makes the diff the weak point???? I've broken a few CVs on my Porsche race car before upgrading them, that should be the weak link.
Well said!!
totally agree with you

Thank you CyberGS and becarful from the diff of your GS!
never mod the car be stock and never put radials, never launch the car ...
if you want that, first you must first upgrade the weakest diff GM built!
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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 09:03 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Streetk14
You gotta understand that most of the diff failures you hear about are on the 2005 models that came from the factory with a diff that seemed to be built of glass. The 2006+ version is a lot better, but it is still an independent differential not a solid axle 9" Ford.

Speaking of 9" Fords, I blew apart the stock Traction Lock differential case on the 9" that I had in my '68 Camaro. This was with full street tires, ~420 hp and a Tremec 5-speed. I was spinning the tires a bit in 1st, and when I hit 2nd the tires grabbed and BOOM! It was like I was in neutral after that. I had to wait for a flatbed

My point is that even the most robust differential can be broken. There is always a weak link. You have to realize that the C6 diff was designed for no more than 400 RWHP. With your mods, you are probably putting out more than a stock Z06 and are running much stickier tires.

From a 30 MPH roll (50 KM), the stock tires would just spin and the diff would be safe. I have the same car ('08 Z51 manual) with similar mods putting out ~460 rwhp. My stock supercars will not hook at that speed. Getting a car to dead-hook with that much power is the killer.

Sorry to hear what happened, but like others said- you gotta pay to play. I hope my diff doesn't blow up, but if it does I understand I'm going to be paying up for a better one. It's all part of the game when you start adding power.

Andy
You killed me
you are crrect & I understand you and yes im on the same range of power you are putting with the 91 pump gas.

you are correct but Im courius why they didn't put a strong diff like the z06 in the c6 at least it will hold little power or take more abuse?
and honestly, do you see an increase about 100hp is reasonable to badly break the diff? from what I read now here and emails and from RPM shop, many of c6 owners suffer the same, some of us suffer it twice and spent money on that!
honestly, do you see it's normal to happen from 50km roll? not from a dig? is my car seems to have more than 600 rwhp? do the eurpean super cars break their rears when it hooks (probably they hook most of the time and had a more better traction than a corvette)

if other cars like ford had a better design for the diff, why GM don't think to create similier or do a better work on their super cars (Corvettes)
Im sure they do especialy for the z06 or zr1
but not for the c6

Thanks for the good comments again & hope you the best for your vette
(as advice, upgrade the diff asap or don't put a sticky tires, good luck).

Last edited by WHITE_SHARK; Sep 21, 2010 at 09:10 PM.
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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 09:27 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by WHITE_SHARK
You killed me
you are crrect & I understand you and yes im on the same range of power you are putting with the 91 pump gas.

you are correct but Im courius why they didn't put a strong diff like the z06 in the c6 at least it will hold little power or take more abuse?
and honestly, do you see an increase about 100hp is reasonable to badly break the diff? from what I read now here and emails and from RPM shop, many of c6 owners suffer the same, some of us suffer it twice and spent money on that!
honestly, do you see it's normal to happen from 50km roll? not from a dig? is my car seems to have more than 600 rwhp? do the eurpean super cars break their rears when it hooks (probably they hook most of the time and had a more better traction than a corvette)

if other cars like ford had a better design for the diff, why GM don't think to create similier or do a better work on their super cars (Corvettes)
Im sure they do especialy for the z06 or zr1
but not for the c6

Thanks for the good comments again & hope you the best for your vette
(as advice, upgrade the diff asap or don't put a sticky tires, good luck).

Well, the way I see it is this. I added 82 rwhp and 64 rwtq to my car since I bought it (I have baseline and after-mod dyno sheets). That is a substantial power increase, and my car is now making more power and torque than most C6 Z06s do on the same dyno.

With that said, I should be upgrading the diff. If GM felt that a stronger diff was needed for the 505 hp Z06 (which they did), then I/we should probably do the same when we mod for 500+ flywheel HP.

Would it have been nice to get the stronger Z06 diff as standard on the regular C6 models? Sure, but it all comes down to cost. 99.9% of LS3 Vette owners will never have a problem with the standard diff. I'm sure it is something GM has investigated in their cost-analysis of the C6. It's one of the reasons you get so much for your $$$ with the C6.

And I'm not sure what would happen if you added an extra 100 hp and torque to a Ferrari and installed R-compounds. I could see something breaking as well. Just aren't a lot of guys modding Ferraris like Corvettes.

I'm looking at having my diff done as well, but mainly for the gear change. I'd rather have it done before it blows and takes out my transmission. Good luck and let us know what you choose to do.

Andy
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Old Sep 22, 2010 | 10:32 AM
  #36  
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^
^
well said, thank you


for now, can anybody confirm if I can replace the diff with the c6 z06 directly?

this is a comment found in a reply in other forum:
The C6 Z06 differential has a larger ring gear that allows it too take higher power ratings without breaking. The case webing is heavier too
If I found this info in one of the sites:
2006-2010 LS2 & LS3 6-speed cars can use the Z06 differential only after upgrading to a Z06 transmission. Call Zip tech support at 1-800-962-9632 for questions regarding C6 Z06 Corvette differential conversions

edit: Found a used z06 tranny + diff, can this be installed on my car? do I need also to buy the driveshat in between and flywheel and change my current clutch, etc?

Last edited by WHITE_SHARK; Sep 22, 2010 at 11:05 AM.
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Old Sep 22, 2010 | 01:11 PM
  #37  
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Wow - this is DEF a big fear for me. I ALSO own a 2008 Z51 M6.

My car makes 614rwhp. I run Toyo R888 305/30/19 in the rear. I launch my car on the street and on the track, honestly.. I beat on it pretty much any way you can think of. Nothing has broken yet, but I can hear "things" clunking under the car when I go over small bumps - or when I'm shifting normally and the car jolts slightly. I'm just waiting for the day. Maybe I should have it looked at before something breaks -
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To My Blown 2008 C6 Diffrential!

Old Sep 22, 2010 | 02:37 PM
  #38  
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This is why I don't **** from the dig on my 345 street tires. The side wall is too stiff and the wheel and tire is too heavy. Try the 17 E/T street on a C5 Z06 wheel.
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Old Sep 23, 2010 | 01:05 AM
  #39  
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What you will begin seeing is many 2010-2011 Grand Sports blowing up their differentials. The differential in the GS is the same as the base coupe, but as usual, GM did not think it through/engineer it correctly. GM should have upgraded to the Z06/ZR1 differential.

The GS is heavier overall, has heavier tires, heavier brakes & rotors, wider tires, better traction, all of which are contributing factors to the differential breaking.

More stress on the differential due to heavier car, heavier tires, wider tires and better traction = broken differential

GS Weight: 3,340 Lbs
C6 Base Coupe: 3,200 Lbs
C5 Z06: 3,110 Lbs

Weight is so critical. Hence the reason why a C5 - Z06 with 405HP can run identical times as a 436HP C6 - Grand Sport.
Power to weight ratio.

Last edited by LBear; Sep 23, 2010 at 01:09 AM.
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Old Sep 23, 2010 | 05:58 AM
  #40  
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LBear
Melting Slicks
 
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,246
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From: West Coast
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You're not alone:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ObXW_0Ma50s
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