Hello, all. I've been having strange issues with my '05's driver's side window. I've re-indexed the window probably fifty times and also replaced the exterior door pad since I've read it can cause problems. I've been unable to resolve it and I'm starting to run out of ideas...

Let me try to explain the behavior. The window always indexes down when I open the door, but when I close the door it does not index back up. Sometimes when it indexes down that becomes the new 'up' position... when I close the door, it does not index up as it should but when I re-open the door, it indexes down even further. Also, last night I re-indexed the windows before I went to bed and everything was working properly. This morning, I walked out to the car and opened the door... it indexed down, but not back up when I closed the door again. Nothing changed other than the car sitting overnight.

I've even disconnected the battery and re-indexed everything hoping that would help, but nothing has resolved the issue...

Any ideas on what I should look for?

Thanks!

 

Any time there are electrical issues with these cars it's a good idea to suspect the battery first. If you're absolutely sure it's in good shape then move on. If any doubt, get it tested and/or just replace it.

When you index the windows, you do it with the doors closed, yes? That is a must.

If that isn't it, try indexing both up and down. I didn't even know about doing the down index until recently. May help. Here's the thread where I learned about it:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...13-window.html

If all that fails then come back and we'll all try again.

 

Thanks for the reply, Rick. I had found that post about indexing down and tried it before, but just to be sure, I went out to the car and tried again. Inside the car I rolled the window all the way down and held for about five seconds... rolled all the way up and held for five, released, and held up for five more. I opened the car door and the window indexed down, closed the car door and the window didn't index back up. I repeated the procedure again without luck.

I don't suspect any battery issues (car starts easily, passenger door works properly, etc.) but I do appreciate that point. Here's another possible clue... after I replaced the door pad, the driver's side door was completely inoperative after letting the car sit overnight. I couldn't open it from the outside or inside, the windows were inoperative and the led on the door was dark. When I manually opened the door it sprung to life again. I reseated the pad and connection from inside the door just to be sure there were no problems and it hasn't repeated...

... but that leads me to wonder if it's possible that the door isn't sure if it's closed properly and this is causing the window strangeness? Perhaps changing the door pad magnified the problem leading to the temporarily inoperative door? I'm just trying to throw anything out there and see if it's helpful...

 

DO NOT rule out the battery. A weak battery will stat the car just fine. Put a DC Volt meter on the battery POS and NEG terminals. Have someone cold start the car and carefully examine the battery voltage at the first few engine RPMs. If the battery is weak, it will drop below 9 VDC. Modules will shutdown or loose memory if the HOT at all times voltage goes too low.

 

I checked the battery with a voltmeter... was just shy of 11 volts while cold, dipped a hair beneath 9 volts for a split second while cranking and then leveled off to around 13 a few seconds after startup. Time for a new battery?

 

I replaced the battery and windows are indexing properly for the moment. I'll keep an eye on it over the next few days and post again if the problem repeats.

Thanks again for the advice, gents!

 

If you are referring to the Battery gauge on the IP, after start-up it shows the alternator output. Most of these cars "generally" run 13.2 - 14.2 volts while running, although some dip below 13 occasionally. Glad you replaced it anyway. If you don't already have a Battery Tender, CTEK or some other maintainer I suggest you get one to keep hooked up if the car won't be driven for more than a week or while working on it with the doors open and/or stereo on with the engine off.

 

Rick

The IP Gauge displays the 12 VDC (B+) voltage after the IGNITION relay. It displays the Ignition RUN and Start or On and Start voltage. It goes thru a relay so,, that is the limiting factor on the voltage displayed on the Volt meter. It does NOT read battery voltage or ALTERNATOR voltage because it goes thru that relay. There can be a difference

If the relay has any significant resistance,, the volt meter will read LOWER than battery voltage or alternator output.

The only way to know the true status of the alternator/battery is to read the output of both at the source...

BC

 

My bad, I explained it incorrectly. Thanks for the straight scoop.

 

Rick

I hope you didn't think I was criticizing. I wasn't. After I reread my comment, it looked a little sharp. I was tired when I replied.

I like explaining and letting people know how all this stuff works. Its fun.

Sorry if I came across the wrong way.

Bill

 

Well, the saga continues. The driver's side door went dead on me again last night. I took the car for a drive today, windows functioning normally... parked it, and once again the driver's side window wouldn't index up when the door closed. I opened and closed the door a few times and, without reindexing, it started working again. I'm really starting to suspect an intermittent / faulty connection somewhere...

 

Hmmm........I'm only grasping here. Me? I would try swapping the door pad from the passenger door to the driver's door to see if that works. And I would check under the driver's seat to make sure the connectors are all seated properly and securely.

I'll keep thinking about it.

 

Thanks... that'll give me a few more things to tinker with tomorrow. I know it's difficult to troubleshoot gremlins like this via the internet and I appreciate the continued effort. I'll try to get it to the dealership next week if I can't nail down the problem soon...

 

I took the car to the dealership today and the service tech found a loose connector on the DDM. He re-seated the connector and all appears to be functioning correctly now. Everything else checked out okay...

This doesn't appear to be a common problem, but I figured I'd post the solution in case anyone else experiences a similar issue.

 

Glad they got it fixed for you.

Just for clarity, what is DDM? TIA

 

Something to do with the door module (driver door module maybe?). That's what it says on the service ticket anyway...

The tech had to pull the door panel to find the issue. Wish I could have taken some pictures to share...

 

$$$$ price $$$$$$$$ ???????????????????????????????????????? ???

 

No charge.

I dealt with Gunn Chevrolet in San Antonio... they've been a great dealership to work with on the two service visits I've had so far. I talked to the service manager and tech helping them diagnose the issue and everyone was super cool. Can't say enough about them...

 

I know this is a old thread but I just read it and am having the same issues. So just want to thanks to the OP for the info.

 

My 2010 ZR1 (only 3,000 miles), is having the issue with the drivers window wanting to index up, then down, then up then down, about 6 times then stops. I've tried disconnecting battery & the 5 sec. trick, no solution. If anything, it created different symptoms. At one point my door (Drivers only) would only open manually, and the drivers window was stuck down, then after sitting 8 hours it started working just not indexing properly.
I just got the car and can only assume the battery is original from 2010, but shows a good charge and cranks beautifully. In short, I have dropped it off to the dealer and will know something next week.

Stay tuned !