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From: Austin, Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Houston, Dallas, Hong Kong, Elgin, etc.. Texas
Originally Posted by Xedes
Can I assume the same cams suggested here will work equally as well in an a'09 A6?
The experts advise mild cams work equally well with both transmissions. But as overlap increases, you reach a point on the A6 where a higher stall converter would be advisable.
A cam that is "streetable" to one person may not be "streetable" for another. The term "streetable" really should be avoided.
The link to the GM High Tech magazine cam comparison test I posted earlier should give you a solid idea which cam meets your criteria. They tested a pretty broad range of cams, so it should help you figure out which one fits the way you want your car to act and perform.
The experts advise mild cams work equally well with both transmissions. But as overlap increases, you reach a point on the A6 where a higher stall converter would be advisable.
A cam that is "streetable" to one person may not be "streetable" for another. The term "streetable" really should be avoided.
The link to the GM High Tech magazine cam comparison test I posted earlier should give you a solid idea which cam meets your criteria. They tested a pretty broad range of cams, so it should help you figure out which one fits the way you want your car to act and perform.
The ZR1 and Z06 cams are optimized for emissions and smooth idle. They would be very low on my list.
I agree with what I outlined in red in your post. But my LS7, with a stock LS7 cam, can spin the tires at will through second gear and still get 29-30 MPG cruising on the interstate at 70 MPH and idles smooth. If you have an auto behind your LS3, the smooth idle is important. Even with the manual, a lumpy cam can get old if you do much in town driving. Of course, if you're trying to impress the kiddies while crusing through Sonic, go with the lumpy cam.
St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-'18-'19-'20-'21
[QUOTE=JoesC5;1576987545]I agree with what I outlined in red in your post. But my LS7, with a stock LS7 cam, can spin the tires at will through second gear and still get 29-30 MPG cruising on the interstate at 70 MPH and idles smooth. If you have an auto behind your LS3, the smooth idle is important. Even with the manual, a lumpy cam can get old if you do much in town driving. Of course, if you're trying to impress the kiddies while crusing through Sonic, go with the lumpy cam.[/QUOTE]
I agree with what I outlined in red in your post. But my LS7, with a stock LS7 cam, can spin the tires at will through second gear and still get 29-30 MPG cruising on the interstate at 70 MPH and idles smooth.
He can spin the tires on his LS3 now so maybe he should get a smaller cam, maybe one from a 98 LS1 or an LT1 cam?
I agree with what I outlined in red in your post. But my LS7, with a stock LS7 cam, can spin the tires at will through second gear and still get 29-30 MPG cruising on the interstate at 70 MPH and idles smooth. If you have an auto behind your LS3, the smooth idle is important. Even with the manual, a lumpy cam can get old if you do much in town driving. Of course, if you're trying to impress the kiddies while crusing through Sonic, go with the lumpy cam.
I guess I am in the kiddie impressing group because I love my lumpy idle. I dont understand people talking about problems in traffic with a cam. I have a 232/234 .590 lift. Lots of lope and it doesnt behave any different in traffic than it did stock. Less mileage yes, but I still average 13.5 around town. I am making a road trip to Colorado Springs on Wednesday to swap diffs with SpinMonster, and I am willing to bet I will get 27 mpg on average.
You guys make it sound like your car is going to be like a bucking bronco in a rodeo post cam install
Spin's cam is a specification provided by "Spinmonster." I think you can just PM him and he'd be delighted to provide you the spec and recommend where to have it ground.
A6 stock TC 218/230 116+2 on XFI lobes
A6 3200 TC 224/236 115+4 on XFI lobes (I am about to install in mine with a Yank 3200 and Kooks 1-7/8" headers)
No reason to go bigger IMO these cams make big power with great bottom end and midrange
What value do you put on the big exhaust lobes on those cams? I always thought something like a 224/228 115 would make good power and have excellent street manners. Never thought of going that big on the exhaust side....unless f/i was in the plan.
What value do you put on the big exhaust lobes on those cams? I always thought something like a 224/228 115 would make good power and have excellent street manners. Never thought of going that big on the exhaust side....unless f/i was in the plan.
On the LS3 a 224/236 will beat a 224/228 or 224/230 across the board for hp and torque. Plus the cams I recommended on XFI lobes work better on the new heads - as where it was common to use XE-R lobes for the older style cathedral port heads for on the old LS1/2 engines. Someone on the board I know went from a 230/234 to a 227/239 and picked up a boatload of power with both setups tuned before dynoing. The thread is posted if you search the title only for "century" you can find it.
This will always be debated just like header primary size, but for the LS3 it seems clear that you don't need big duration but a 10-12* split is preferred. XFI lobes work very well hence the two cams mentioned above - and don't forget 1-7/8" headers to go with the cam
Here's a link to a cam of ours for an LS3 that has less overlap than the 21st century cam, as it idles at 650rpm. The gains are strictly from the cam, since the car came tuned from them with bolt-ons. We'll install it for $1599, just give me a call at the shop. Chris, 817-750-2000 http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...p-28ftlbs.html
Here's a link to a cam of ours for an LS3 that has less overlap than the 21st century cam, as it idles at 650rpm. The gains are strictly from the cam, since the car came tuned from them with bolt-ons. We'll install it for $1599, just give me a call at the shop. Chris, 817-750-2000 http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...p-28ftlbs.html
How 'bout some specs? 21st Cent, spin, and others have gotten specific. It's hard to debate/discuss relative merits when there are "?'s" where numbers belong. I know there are folks that would buy a cam without knowing the specs....but quite a few won't....me included.
On the LS3 a 224/236 will beat a 224/228 or 224/230 across the board for hp and torque. Plus the cams I recommended on XFI lobes work better on the new heads - as where it was common to use XE-R lobes for the older style cathedral port heads for on the old LS1/2 engines. Someone on the board I know went from a 230/234 to a 227/239 and picked up a boatload of power with both setups tuned before dynoing. The thread is posted if you search the title only for "century" you can find it.
This will always be debated just like header primary size, but for the LS3 it seems clear that you don't need big duration but a 10-12* split is preferred. XFI lobes work very well hence the two cams mentioned above - and don't forget 1-7/8" headers to go with the cam
Assuming similar intake lobes, lift, and LSA, have you done any testing to quantify how much power you're losing by going milder on the ex lobe? I can see where a 224/236 could do better than a 224/228, but I wonder how much better and is it worth it?
The XFI lobes all have more lift than the XER lobes (of similar duration). Would that explain the power increase with the different lobes or is there more to it than that?
1st was a 228/232 and then Spin's 230/234 (updated now to 231/234).
My personal advice is 231/234. Drove like stock, no surging but still had the lope to it and made plenty of power.
You make it sound like you had surging w/ the 228/232. Did you? Power aside, which cam drove more mildly (closest to stock) also what did you see in power gains?
Finally, forgive all the ?s, what are the total mods & did they stay the same when you swapped sticks?
Assuming similar intake lobes, lift, and LSA, have you done any testing to quantify how much power you're losing by going milder on the ex lobe? I can see where a 224/236 could do better than a 224/228, but I wonder how much better and is it worth it?
The XFI lobes all have more lift than the XER lobes (of similar duration). Would that explain the power increase with the different lobes or is there more to it than that?
Actually Comp says the XE-R lobes are a bit harder on the springs than the XFI lobes due to the ramp rates - even though they have slightly less lift. As far as comparisons go since I have tuned a few hundred LSx cars I have several good contacts at bigger speed shops who have done plenty of testing on LS3 cars to verify what cams work the best. The consensus seems to be that the newer heads like the XFI lobes and a wider split. This makes more hp and torque everywhere than a tighter split given a certain intake duration and lift. I realize that people always argue about what works best for anything around here, but believe me when I say among many shops selling lots of cams this is well established.
Not to say that other cams outside of this won't produce good gains, but just that in my opinion there are better choices. I saw a car with the 218/230 cam pickup 37rwhp over the stock LS3 cam and it idled near stock at 650rpm. Now the 223/236 Thunder TruTorq3 that I am putting in my A6 with Yank 3200 should be good for about a 50rwhp gain. Hoping to run very close to 11.0 on stock tires with headers, cam, and stall in my A6 GS
How 'bout some specs? 21st Cent, spin, and others have gotten specific. It's hard to debate/discuss relative merits when there are "?'s" where numbers belong. I know there are folks that would buy a cam without knowing the specs....but quite a few won't....me included.
Unfortunately I am not at liberty to give the specifics, but to give a little better idea it's high 22Xs, mid 23Xs and low 6XXs. I used to be in the same mindset when I was a customer, but now being on the flip side of things I understand how you get burned by just sharing all info with everyone. If you would like to discuss things further feel free to call me at 817-750-2000, Chris