I gave it my best shot and ran a 10.48, I don't think there's enough in my car to run 9s, unless the weather and my driving was that bad, and I don't think my driving is that bad. I lift slightly, but shift extremely fast, although I could be wrong, maybe there's a.10 or .20, I won't know unless someone drives it with superior skills. How much would my ET drop with better weather?

 

The right DA could get you into the 9s, or close..

 

Vol[QUOTE=xstang;1577281504]The right DA could get you into the 9s, or close..

[/QUOTE
I need to do my home work, when it comes to DA.

 

[QUOTE=chazc6;1577281572]VolYou can find a DA calculator and put in different numbers and it should give you an idea.. It's not 100 accurate, but you can see the potential gains.

 

I don't think there is a 9 in the car as it sits, regardless of driver, weather or track prep...but a 10.2x is absolutely within reach.
There is a track rental with an opening at Atco next Wednesday (4/13), that's probably going to be the best way to truly master the craft, let me know if you want in on it.





That depends, I used to seek the absolute lowest DA/coldest temps in my quest for new bests but the last time I went, about a month ago, it was hopeless as I simply spun on EVERY pass and went home early. None of the changes made in tire pressure, burnout length and/or launch RPM mattered...and mind you this is an automatic on a typically well prepped track too. The same tires that dead hooked just the week before now suddenly acted like oil on ice. Cold air (which that low DA is often associated with) is not the end all be all that so many make it out to be.
That being said, I think you can easily find another tenth or two with some great air that still allows you to hook, especially if the track is properly prepped.
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Your weather wasn't that bad + 700 per the slip, 100's per other measuring sticks. Summertime here is 2000+, likely the same up there.

An old rule of thumb is .1 per 1000 DA and about a mph. I think I get a little more than that and it matters more when you get toward the extremes, down to a point when it gets too cold for good traction.

I'd guess (or should I be more specific, I'd say based on my experience) that at -1500 DA (about as low as I've seen and traction still be available) you might indeed get .2 and 2 mph.

For the record, I agree with Robz that 9's are going to be hard. I really don't know how he does it.

It would help if we could see the run on video then some folks on this thread could provide more constructive comment. But with a 1.4 60 foot it's not like you're a schlep behind the wheel. Not that you need launch tips but RobZ gave me a great one - accelerate into the clutch release, don't hold it at the desired launch rpm at line. I find doing that I'm launching at 100% throttle at about mid 5's rpm and it'll bog down to mid 4's and get decent 60's. That's what a 2-step does by design.

Robz noted that technique is hard on parts.

 

Marc I concur with all above, as you can see we were typing similar things at the same time.

Please post up results from your test day, good or bad.

And let's all remember the rule of the FARTPIPE:

IF IT'S NOT ON VIDEO IT DIDN'T HAPPEN!

 

I don't think that time slip's weather info is entirely accurate. I've been running at Englishtown for roughly 20 years now (just under 20 years at Atco) and historically speaking, the weather info on our time slips is VERY inaccurate.
Ironically, just this year (I've raced there twice already this season) they do claim to have corrected that problem and tell us that the slips are in fact accurate now. But yet when compared to the very expensive handheld weather stations that many of my fellow racers utilize, they're still not.
In my opinion, the humidity on the slip is likely spot on and the temp might be close but the barometer is still reading low.
I'm thinking chaz made that pass at somewhere between -100 and +200 feet.

 

That's just it, there were no results LOL, I think I squeezed out a 15 on one pass, I'd literally obliterated the tires, aborted EVERY run and took the first turn off road.
I'm thinking of a few potential new strategies but am now somewhat convinced that 10.9s is likely as quick as the car is going to go (as it sits at least) unless I put a much lighter driver in it.






Very true.

 

Trying to visualize/understand this one Joe, help me out.

 

Like I said, a combination of weather, practice and more weight reduction could definitely put that car in the 9s. It has the power for it.

For one, pull the sub out next time, lol.

 

Roll into the throttle at the same time as you release the clutch. i.e. don't hold a steady throttle.

Oh yeah, forgot to add that's just an opinion. (aka guess)

 

Let's see what I can do. What I do is essentially the poor man's 2 step.

A 2-step works by controlling spark to maintain a selected rpm. The driver engages it, floors the clutch and the gas, the car is held at the preset rpm, say 3500, then, as he releases the clutch (keeping the gas floored) the 2-step disengages and during the time when the clutch is coming off the floor until the clutch engages, the engine revs at 100% throttle. This gives the clutch the maximum energy to launch the car, 100% throttle and an accelerating flywheel.

The key is choosing a hold rpm and releasing the clutch at the right speed to keep from spinning the tires or burning up the clutch. Of course with a Vette you can't dump the clutch or you will become really good at replacing rear ends (unless you have a C6Z which seem pretty indestructible...RattG launches off the rev limiter floored I think).

The alternative is to hold it at say 5500 with 30% throttle, release the clutch and as it's releasing press the accelerator. This isn't as efficient, I'm guessing because the engine's not 100% throttle during the entire launch process as it is with the process above.

Listen to how it works and see the results. Stock clutch.



This is VERY hard on the parts. This guy's stock clutch was overheating from these launches and he couldn't shift the car as you can tell. PLUS the next event he left his rear end on the track on the first launch. Isaiah48 blew his rear on his first time out by setting the hold rpm too high. Double A uses 2500 rpm I think.

I am accelerating the pedal as the tree's coming down. With the goal, which I can achieve, to be at 100% throttle before the car starts to move. This takes some practice. You can see this below:

The green line on the top is my speed line, and the green line on the third graph is my accelerator, you can see I'm 100% before the car starts moving but I accelerated quickly to get there. You can also note I let off on each shift - after blowing my rear and a tranny, I just don't want to risk blowing another by flat shifting (no lift).

You can hear all of this in the video below, and notice that I barked the tires on each shift even lifting.



This is tricky to cut a .0xx light but with some practice you can do it (see my slips above in the thread).

Hope that helps.

 

Rule of thumb is .1/750' DA. and proven 1.12/100#. Joe G. has scans showing as much as .1 difference between a great shift and a pretty good shift.

Drop 100#, run in -2000' DA, and hit one or two great shifts. Add it up.

 

[QUOTE=xstang;1577281665]Its a shame, i should know more about this. Thanks

 

[QUOTE=chazc6;1577282783]Here's a bunch of calculators.

http://www.wallaceracing.com/Calculators.htm

The rule of thumbs are so close that I find these a little overkill. With a manual car there are so many things to put together.

 

I have to work on 04/13/2011, how soon in advance do you need to know. I might be able to take off. Thanks for the offer

 

I agree, i bought a sony blog just to video the run, but i was so nervous that day i left it home. I will definately bring it next time.
Thanks

 

No way he's gonna get 9's out of that car. MAYBE RobZ could.

But I wouldn't want to bet on the rear or the trans living through it.

All due respect of course!

 

MT ET Street if you don't already have them.