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I feel like my car must not be making anywhere near the expected ~380 whp since the best trap I can get is the 114mph and that was 1 time. It's normally 112mph consistently. It is hot as hell here in Florida and from what Halltech says, the computer pulls loads of timing when the temps are above 86*F so perhaps that's why.
I feel like my car must not be making anywhere near the expected ~380 whp since the best trap I can get is the 114mph and that was 1 time. It's normally 112mph consistently. It is hot as hell here in Florida and from what Halltech says, the computer pulls loads of timing when the temps are above 86*F so perhaps that's why.
What Jim Hall told you is absolutely true. That's how the CAI's get such great results, they drop the inlet air temp.
Here's the table for timing pulled for various inlet air temps. Notice how much gets pulled...I've scanned stock z06's at 152 degrees IAT in the staging lanes...that's pulling 11 degrees of timing, about 1/2 of commanded timing. If you get that air down to ambient, say 86, you're getting back 11 degrees of timing. That's a LOT of power.
On your stock ls3, you can prop the shroud open (do a search for instructions) and get a large chunk of the value of the CAI for free, fyi.
Ya I've been looking at the free cold air mod and I think I'm just going to end up getting the Superbee along with some tires/wheels. Hopefully that should net .4 or better and maybe 3-4 mph. That would be nice. I don't really want to permanently modify my shroud if I can get away with it but I may end up doing it anyway. Ah, the neverending pursuit of more power.
Side note--do you think it's worth it to get the car tuned right now or should I wait for mods first. I hear conflicting stories. It's not that expensive for a tune but if it's only going to net a little change then I'll just wait until I put a few mods on.
Is it common practice to offer 'lower priced' retunes for customers of tuners? If Jeremy Formato charges $400 for his tune, I would hope it wouldn't be an additional $400 if I added headers and an intake. I don't know though-I guess I should just give him a call.
Ya I've been looking at the free cold air mod and I think I'm just going to end up getting the Superbee along with some tires/wheels. Hopefully that should net .4 or better and maybe 3-4 mph. That would be nice. I don't really want to permanently modify my shroud if I can get away with it but I may end up doing it anyway. Ah, the neverending pursuit of more power.
Side note--do you think it's worth it to get the car tuned right now or should I wait for mods first. I hear conflicting stories. It's not that expensive for a tune but if it's only going to net a little change then I'll just wait until I put a few mods on.
Is it common practice to offer 'lower priced' retunes for customers of tuners? If Jeremy Formato charges $400 for his tune, I would hope it wouldn't be an additional $400 if I added headers and an intake. I don't know though-I guess I should just give him a call.
What do you think Joe?
Can't go wrong with a Formato tune and I'm 99% sure he does re-tunes for free if you get add'l mods (within reason, don't expect him to do a turbo tune for free after you've had a bolt on tune done by him). Particularly if he does the work of the mods, remember he's got a full service shop.
I'd also advise picking a shop and sticking with them. That way there's no pointing fingers. HPS does great work down here, I'll always vouch for them.
I live in Ruskin and work in Tampa. I agree with picking a shop/going with them. I'd like to build a rapport with someone and be able to give them all my business and have them take care of everything for me.
I run the older style ZR1 wheels (17x11) on the back of my C6 with a 26x10.5x17 et street. With the width of the zr1 wheel I am using every bit of the 10.5" tire...
Come borrow my tires if you want this weekend. They hold at 672rwhp. Stock C5z06 wheels with 275/40 MT drag radials. I can cut 1.7's at HMP with them(in the video). You probably won't get in the low 1.6 to high 1.5 range at that track unless you run on Sundays and there are a lot of high hp slick cars putting down rubber.
I should be between 700-725rwhp soon, and I'm sticking with the 275/40-17's, but changing from MT to Hoosier.
Last edited by winters97gt; Jun 14, 2011 at 09:29 PM.
Come borrow my tires if you want this weekend. They hold at 672rwhp. Stock C5z06 wheels with 275/40 MT drag radials. I can cut 1.7's at HMP with them(in the video). You probably won't get in the low 1.6 to high 1.5 range at that track unless you run on Sundays and there are a lot of high hp slick cars putting down rubber.
I should be between 700-725rwhp soon, and I'm sticking with the 275/40-17's, but changing from MT to Hoosier.
Problem is as I talked with him on the phone, he's going to have to change his tune for the car to shift properly with the shorter tire. We talked about running a different tune in sport mode, so it'd run correctly.
I have my new 18x10.5 rims on the way and ( a/c man ) said he would sell me his used set of 305/35/18 tires but I think he might have changed his mind because I have not heard from him in two days now. The tire calculator says either 285/40/18 or 305/35/18 will work. Either way I am screwed because it is looking like I will not have tires in time for Friday and I will be stuck with my runcraps. I called Smileys and they can get me some Hoosiers but they do not make a Hoosier in the right size.
Would the 17" Kumho tires on my C4 do a better job? heck would they even fit?
I would go with 17's over 18's. I didn't realize you were an auto. You could run the 295/45 MT DR's in 17's if you want to run a 27 inch tire.
Being an auto he doesn't have to worry about sidewall cushion and the 295/45 would be almost an inch taller than stock, not only messing up shift points, but also slowing him down from gearing loss as he's going to be in 3rd no matter what in the 1/8. Now if he's going to gear it for the 1/4 and minimize shifts then it may be a different story...3 shifts a few hundred rpm short, can add up to .1 because of less avg power being put down.
Being an auto he doesn't have to worry about sidewall cushion and the 295/45 would be almost an inch taller than stock, not only messing up shift points, but also slowing him down from gearing loss as he's going to be in 3rd no matter what in the 1/8. Now if he's going to gear it for the 1/4 and minimize shifts then it may be a different story...3 shifts a few hundred rpm short, can add up to .1 because of less avg power being put down.
Chris, so he can't run a 26 inch tire, or a 27 inch tire with his tune? He needs a 26.5? I suggested the(275/40-17) which is a 26 inch tire to begin with, but you said that wouldn't work. That's why I suggested the 27 inch tire. Both fit nicely on C5Z fronts.
Chris, so he can't run a 26 inch tire, or a 27 inch tire with his tune? He needs a 26.5? I suggested the(275/40-17) which is a 26 inch tire to begin with, but you said that wouldn't work. That's why I suggested the 27 inch tire. Both fit nicely on C5Z fronts.
Stock is 26.5", the A6 bases it's shiftpoints off mph. I agree both fit a 9.5" rim, but the 275/40 as I suggested as well is really only 25.5" tall(it might be 26" if you squeeze it on an 8.5" rim and leave it aired up), but an inch will make a couple hundred rpm difference in shift points especially the faster you go in an A6(possibly enough to cancel out the gains of going to a shorter tire in the first place). The 295/45 is really a 27.5" tall tire again an inch difference, it's all in the details to go as fast as possible
Guys the Calculator says my stock 285/35/19 is 26.9" the tires I just got are 26.4" 305/35/18. that is a 1.7% diffrence
M/T etII 305/35/18 on 18x10.5 rims. I am going to try them out tonight at 20psi.
My friend runs those tires and likes them. I think you'll be fine with your shift points - he doesn't change his tune from street to track with those tires.
My friend runs those tires and likes them. I think you'll be fine with your shift points - he doesn't change his tune from street to track with those tires.