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something to prevent hydrolocking??

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Old Jul 17, 2011 | 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by DSOMC6
Why would you install a bottom feeder air intake when you live where it rains a lot?
Are the extra "few" hp worth risking the cost of a new engine?
Or any air intake changes for that matter.
If one is really that panicked/fear stricken by the big bad hydrolock monster then there is likely no CAI (or any performance modifications/changes) that will work for them.
Others choose not to live in such fear otherwise they'd probably be driving a full size truck instead of a low, small, light sports car.
No offense LOL.
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Old Jul 17, 2011 | 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by LS1LT1
Maybe.
And the fact is they also don't provide a direct path of cold air either, ultimately costing one the maximum performance gains that they desire in the process.
Ya can't have it both ways.
People need to prioritize and figure out exactly what 'performance to safety' ratio they're looking for.

EVERY air intake system (even the factory unit) is susceptible to permitting water in (yes, some more than others), if the puddle is big enough then NONE are truly immuned to hydrolocking.
The problem is that that direct path buys you nothing in performance but lots in potential problems. It has been shown multiple times (even by users of the VR) that it DOES NOT PROVIDE RAM AIR. In the end it is just a CAI, and a bad one at that. Others can provide the same ambient air flow without the hydrolocking potential or the possibility of dirt ingestion if the seal fails. Yes, that's two separate bad design flaws, and you will face one or the other at one time, not both.

With that in mind, after seeing first hand the downsides of this design, my priority was to get the air benefits while trying to minimize these risks. A K&N or a Halltech plus a Vette air scoop (or even just opening the shroud a little) with a Beehive does that with greatly reduced risks.
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Old Jul 17, 2011 | 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by 6Speeder
The problem is that that direct path buys you nothing in performance
Others can provide the same ambient air flow
Nothing?
There are barely a couple handfuls of naturally aspirated (supercharged/turbocharged cars obviously don't use traditional CAIs) C6s in the 10s.

Have you ever counted just how few of them are not using a Vararam?

Now, I suppose there are some who haven't even tested another brand to know for sure whether or not they'd still be just as fast (or faster) with it...but when you've already done what some consider to be 'the impossible' (ie: putting a barely bolt ons only LS2 into the 10s, or into the mid 10s in Dennis's case) then you become a lot less willing to stray from PROVEN results.
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Old Jul 17, 2011 | 03:42 PM
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Its funny because import intakes have this:http://www.autoanything.com/air-filt...A2582A0A0.aspx

and corvettes have nothing.
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Old Jul 17, 2011 | 04:39 PM
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If the Vararam is "prone to hydrolocking" then you must conceed that the seal quality must be good. Otherwise the water would come spilling out of the "poor quality" seals prior to entering the engine... correct?

So which is it...the quality sucks therefore its impossible to hydrolock the motor or it seals well and you should avoid crossing flooding rivers with it?

Last edited by sallen619; Jul 17, 2011 at 04:40 PM. Reason: sp
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Old Jul 17, 2011 | 10:20 PM
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My friend Theofel came up with this idea...it's a removable plug that he takes out when daily driving.

I have a friend who hydrolocked with this type of intake, and another who hydrolocked with another similar cavity breather.. These bottom breathers are susceptible to water being scooped up by the air dam and filling the radiator cavity and thus getting sucked into the engine. Two examples on this board.

So that design isn't safe either.

Anyway, here is Theofel's idea, which is a good one.

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Old Jul 17, 2011 | 10:30 PM
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Originally Posted by sallen619
If the Vararam is "prone to hydrolocking" then you must conceed that the seal quality must be good. Otherwise the water would come spilling out of the "poor quality" seals prior to entering the engine... correct?

So which is it...the quality sucks therefore its impossible to hydrolock the motor or it seals well and you should avoid crossing flooding rivers with it?
Excellent points LOL.
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Old Jul 17, 2011 | 11:55 PM
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When you're driving down the street, how do you determine how deep the water puddle in front of you is, before you drive into it? 2"? 4"? 6"? I sure can't look at flowing water and tell how deep it is.
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Old Jul 18, 2011 | 12:58 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by JoesC5
When you're driving down the street, how do you determine how deep the water puddle in front of you is, before you drive into it? 2"? 4"? 6"?
Very often, you can't.


Originally Posted by JoesC5
I sure can't look at flowing water and tell how deep it is.
Me either.

And that is why the more skilled Corvette drivers (or drivers of any car for that matter) slow down and simply creep through the puddle (if they can see it of course) regardless of how deep it does or does not appear to be and regardless of what air intake is or is not on their car...even if it results in angry horn honking traffic building up behind them.
Or they stop, back up and/or turn around and go back the way they came if conditions permit.

I have an almost paranoid mentality when it comes to driving. I ALWAYS approach streets/roads/highways as if EVERY driver is out to wreck my car so I tend to be ready for anything at any time (except for deer jumping into me out of no where LOL). I approach rain/potentially deep puddles/ice/snow the very same way.
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Old Jul 18, 2011 | 01:40 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Xedes
Its funny because import intakes have this:http://www.autoanything.com/air-filt...A2582A0A0.aspx

and corvettes have nothing.
My son has a 2001 Honda Civic with an aftermarket cold air. It has a cone filter that sits really low. I put in one of the "vacuum breakers" in the inlet line and then added one of the socks that you show. I am just so worried about him driving through a puddle.
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Old Jul 18, 2011 | 08:55 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by sallen619
If the Vararam is "prone to hydrolocking" then you must conceed that the seal quality must be good. Otherwise the water would come spilling out of the "poor quality" seals prior to entering the engine... correct?

So which is it...the quality sucks therefore its impossible to hydrolock the motor or it seals well and you should avoid crossing flooding rivers with it?
As I said, you will face one or the other at one time. Why can't people get this? If you search you will find many cases of these CAI's causing both problems.

As for performance, I was comparing it to other CAI's which don't have these design flaws. I only recall one person actually removing another brand CAI and using a VR. IIRC he only went 1 or 2 HUNDRETHS quicker which would be a statistical tie. ABSOLUTELY not worth the risks that this CAI bring with it.
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Old Jul 18, 2011 | 10:04 AM
  #32  
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avoid puddles or get a truck for DD
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Old Jul 19, 2011 | 11:24 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by LS1LT1
Very often, you can't.


Me either.

And that is why the more skilled Corvette drivers (or drivers of any car for that matter) slow down and simply creep through the puddle (if they can see it of course) regardless of how deep it does or does not appear to be and regardless of what air intake is or is not on their car...even if it results in angry horn honking traffic building up behind them.
Or they stop, back up and/or turn around and go back the way they came if conditions permit.

I have an almost paranoid mentality when it comes to driving. I ALWAYS approach streets/roads/highways as if EVERY driver is out to wreck my car so I tend to be ready for anything at any time (except for deer jumping into me out of no where LOL). I approach rain/potentially deep puddles/ice/snow the very same way.
Exactly my point. Everyone says to avoid the deep water puddles. That's well and great, if there is a marker showing how deep the puddle is. Or do they have an advance vehicle, that drives ahead of them measuring all the puddles and then radioing back to their Vette, as to which puddles are safe to drive through, and which ones are not and they should turn around.
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Old Jul 19, 2011 | 11:53 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by JoesC5
Exactly my point. Everyone says to avoid the deep water puddles. That's well and great, if there is a marker showing how deep the puddle is. Or do they have an advance vehicle, that drives ahead of them measuring all the puddles and then radioing back to their Vette, as to which puddles are safe to drive through, and which ones are not and they should turn around.
That's where experience teaches you to to closely watch the cars around you, let them lead, ride the crown of the road, look way ahead for problems, always have an escape route plan, and know your own limitations.

In AZ there is a "Dumb Motorist" law that carries a steep fine if your vehicle attempts to go through flash flooded washes and gets stuck. The same logic of "don't be stupid" applies to drivers everywhere.
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Old Jul 19, 2011 | 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by sallen619
If the Vararam is "prone to hydrolocking" then you must conceed that the seal quality must be good. Otherwise the water would come spilling out of the "poor quality" seals prior to entering the engine... correct?

So which is it...the quality sucks therefore its impossible to hydrolock the motor or it seals well and you should avoid crossing flooding rivers with it?
I don't think this is the gotcha argument you think it is. You can hydro-lock an engine fed by a leaky intake.
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Old Jul 19, 2011 | 12:39 PM
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I think the whole issue has been blown out of proportion IMO. With my previous C6 I drove 200 miles in a tropical storm. A half inch of standing water on the freeway. Everytime a semi went by it was like getting hit by a firemans waterhose. No issues.

The fact is you need a wall of water at least 6 inches tall to even have a chance of ingesting water and you still need to that water to seal the intake to have a chance of raising it another 14 inches or so to get it into the motor. A puddle, a long one 3 inches deep might do it as the airdam can work as a plow and build a bow wave.

You can always build a vaccuum relief valve if you are worried. The valve opens up as soon as a vaccuum is detected, in the case of totally clogging the intake. The valve opens and you provides a path for air to enter the engine and the water to drain back the way it came.

The best thing, don't drive thru puddles deeper than 3 inches.
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Old Jul 19, 2011 | 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by HOXXOH
That's where experience teaches you to to closely watch the cars around you, let them lead, ride the crown of the road, look way ahead for problems, always have an escape route plan, and know your own limitations.

In AZ there is a "Dumb Motorist" law that carries a steep fine if your vehicle attempts to go through flash flooded washes and gets stuck. The same logic of "don't be stupid" applies to drivers everywhere.
Originally Posted by TMyers
I think the whole issue has been blown out of proportion IMO. With my previous C6 I drove 200 miles in a tropical storm. A half inch of standing water on the freeway. Everytime a semi went by it was like getting hit by a firemans waterhose. No issues.

The fact is you need a wall of water at least 6 inches tall to even have a chance of ingesting water and you still need to that water to seal the intake to have a chance of raising it another 14 inches or so to get it into the motor. A puddle, a long one 3 inches deep might do it as the airdam can work as a plow and build a bow wave.
Exactly.
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To something to prevent hydrolocking??

Old Jul 19, 2011 | 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by TMyers
I think the whole issue has been blown out of proportion IMO. With my previous C6 I drove 200 miles in a tropical storm. A half inch of standing water on the freeway. Everytime a semi went by it was like getting hit by a firemans waterhose. No issues.

The fact is you need a wall of water at least 6 inches tall to even have a chance of ingesting water and you still need to that water to seal the intake to have a chance of raising it another 14 inches or so to get it into the motor. A puddle, a long one 3 inches deep might do it as the airdam can work as a plow and build a bow wave.

You can always build a vaccuum relief valve if you are worried. The valve opens up as soon as a vaccuum is detected, in the case of totally clogging the intake. The valve opens and you provides a path for air to enter the engine and the water to drain back the way it came.

The best thing, don't drive thru puddles deeper than 3 inches.
Very well said.

I have had a Vararam for 6 years now in my daily driver in torrential S. Fla rain. I have had to avert routes only a couple of times. Big deal.

I will add....from the top of my head, the two friends who actually locked their engine had a different cavity style of CAI and it was indeed the lower air dam scooping up the water. One got lucky and after the engine died, he pulled the plugs the next day and it was fine. This happened in a parking lot, by the way.

I chose the Vararam precisely for this reason - it takes a pretty deep puddle to submerse it and it's less susceptible to the scooping effect of the airdam IMHO.

Last edited by Joe_G; Jul 19, 2011 at 01:55 PM.
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Old Jul 19, 2011 | 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Joe_G
I have had a Vararam for 6 years now in my daily driver in torrential S. Fla rain. I have had to avert routes only a couple of times. Big deal.
Routes that you might've still averted even if you were driving a stock Corvette.
My choice of CAI (or 'free ram air' mod on my Z28) isn't what dictates how I handle my low slung cars in heavy rains/flooding, basic common sense does.
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Old Jun 21, 2016 | 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Xedes
Its funny because import intakes have this:http://www.autoanything.com/air-filt...A2582A0A0.aspx

and corvettes have nothing.
Use one of these over your K&N intake and get a vette-air
http://www.knfilters.com/search/prod...prod=RP-5135DK

Last edited by orripid; Jun 21, 2016 at 12:50 PM.
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