Well It's been awhile building this car. I finally finished my car and here is the first start up video. I thought it had no oil pressure because the battery was super dead and for some reason I was hoping it didn't have enough power to oil gauge..


The following day after I charged the battery and put the x pipe on the car I pulled it out of my garage to start it and this is my 2nd start up


I again was hoping it was still cold and decided to start if up for one last shot it would have pressure..This is the 3rd time I started it up



Now here she is back in my garage awaiting to surgery again that's going to start Sunday. Even though the oil pump O rings look good it is a really good idea to replace them while you have the car apart or else you could end up like me.

 

Did you check all connections to be sure the oil pressure gage was hooked up. I believe its behind the intake next to firewall.
z51vett

 

The plug behind the the intake manifold? If that's the case I'll unplug it and see if I get same results. At the moment I'm just a little angry. If you watched all the video's you'll see I have >5 psi at ide and when I accelerate it increases to max of 38 psi..

 

Typically the valvetrain will get real noisy when the lifters collapse with no oil pressure.

If the motor is otherwise quiet, and you are reasonably confident you put it back together correctly, I would try to put a mechanical gauge on it to verify oil pressure first.
If a mechanical gauge screwed into the motor reads zero... THEN you have a problem.

It could be as simple as a bad sender. They DO go bad pretty regularly.

 

As you see in the video's with bigger fuel injectors, no 02 sensor hooked up, h/c she starts fine and idles perfect for this package. Wouldn't no oil pressure affect that? I'm just still in hope of faulty oil pressure gauge

 

I'm not sure about the C6's, but many cars will cut the fuel pump if they have no oil pressure.

 

Could be a collapse oil filter, faulty oil pressure sensor, or worse case the O ring.

 

It's really hard to tell from the video.

Is the valvetrain really noisy ?

If so, DON'T start it again until you get the pump/leak squared away.

I'm not entirely familiar with the LS motors... so maybe someone else will chime in here.
If it sat a long time, maybe the pump lost it's prime ? or like you said, maybe a bad O ring.

 

It sat about 2 months. When I installed a double roller I had to remove the pump. I inspected the O ring and it looked like new. When I installed the oil pump back on I did have to wiggle it in and it might of made a slight tear. Yes the valve train is a little noisy. If I was to remove the valve covers, shouldn't I find a fair amount of oil around the valve springs? I figure after I calm down and a few more beers I'll go out and run some tests. I'll unplug the oil sensor to see if it'll even start if it reads no pressure. Then gauge test. check the valves while it is apart. If that all fails then It has to be the O ring. Any one can think of something I might be missing?

 

Also if I had no oil pressure shouldn't my oil temp go up fast since there would not been or barley any oil circulation?

 

"nothing like an authentic cold start... little redline for a good time" -daves farm

 

Sounds like you may already know what the problem is. Hopefully the torn Oring and/or debris doesn't get somewhere it doesn't belong.

By the sounds of it, and judging by the valvetrain noise... your safest bet is to pull the front of the motor apart and correct the oil pump issue before you damage the bearings in the motor. If you only idled it a couple times and it had *some* oil pressure, hopefully it was enough to keep the bearings happy.
I've built motors that would make 40-50psi of oil pressure just cranking off the starter.

I know how frustrating it can be... but just try to look at it as a learning experience and think of how badass it will be when it's corrected.

Two years ago I had to pull a brand new trans and converter out of a car after only 1 mile of driving it (had a noise in it). Not sure if it was the converter or the trans, as neither vendor would fess up to the mistake. Amazingly enough after sending both back for inspection/repair, the noise went away.
That amounted to a few hundred dollars in shipping and tranny fluid, along with a few more hours of my time to R&R it.

Also FWIW, your H/C project hasn't been a failure. You got it together and running, but just have a minor glitch that needs correction. It happens to even the best of us.
Just slow down and get back to it when you have a clear head.
You should be able to get it fixed in no time.

 

It could be one of many issues:
- Simply a bad sensor.
- Oil pump plugged or bad.
- Pump/pick-up tube o ring bad or not installed and seated correctly.
- Cam retainer plate (imbeded gasket gets squished and will cause a low oil condition. I would strongly recomend anyone pulling the cam to replace this cheap part because of this exact issue).
- Too much RTV used (or RTV used God knows where) clogging oil passages (also see clogged oil pump above).

If oil is not pumping when you start it, it will not increase in temp much.

If there's oil pressure and you pull a valve cover, you should see a good amount of oil pooled on the top of the head.

 

You've gone this far, just keep a good attitude man thats pretty cool you did your own h/c swap.

 

You should probably just keep revving it up really high with no oil pressure, it will probably help.

 

looks to be a pinched oil pump o-ring. You really have to lube the crap out of it. Just tear back into it and take your time.

 

you must be speaking from experience
There's a DAY in every bunch

 

'Twas scarcasm, sir.

 

Your issue is the o-ring.

Do not try starting the car like that.

The o-ring goes on the pick-up tube which then gets inserted into the oil pump. You do not put the o-ring in the pump then on the tube. It pinches it every time and causes exactly what is happening.

Hopefully when you get a new o-ring in it, there wont be any damage to bearings. Obviously revving isnt helping things.

 

I was going to say that since you had the oil pump off the car, what you now have is a "cavitated" oil pump which will result in zero oil pressure.

However, if you are in fact getting some oil pressure, your oil pump is not cavitated ... and the problem is that O ring others here have mentioned.