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Old Feb 27, 2012 | 10:12 PM
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Default stall converter recommendation

best stall to use on 2011 GS A6 and still maintain drivability.
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Old Feb 27, 2012 | 11:22 PM
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Originally Posted by veeteman GS11
best stall to use on 2011 GS A6 and still maintain drivability.
2800 to 3200 range might be best for meeting those criteria. And I would stick with a major manufacturer/known brand name when buying a higher stall torque converter.
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Old Feb 28, 2012 | 08:19 AM
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Chuck CoW put in a Pro Torque 2800 stall along with his 3.42 diff (plus AR headers and Vararam). The car is fantastic to drive and feels very stock-like. I couldn't be happier.
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Old Feb 28, 2012 | 09:10 AM
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I just ordered a Yank S/S 3200, I've heard good things about that converter's street manners.
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Old Feb 28, 2012 | 10:13 AM
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Originally Posted by veeteman GS11
best stall to use on 2011 GS A6 and still maintain drivability.
I have a FTI 3200 stall and my car does 1.55 to 1.58 sixty ft with 18 inch drag radials. Drives like stock and still get 29 to 30 mpg on the highway. I also picked up over 8 tenths with it.
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Old Feb 29, 2012 | 12:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Polar Jet
Chuck CoW put in a Pro Torque 2800 stall along with his 3.42 diff (plus AR headers and Vararam). The car is fantastic to drive and feels very stock-like. I couldn't be happier.
Do you have a part number for the converter you are running? There are a few choices on their website and it gets confusing.
Thanks.
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Old Feb 29, 2012 | 07:39 PM
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wow that's impressive. My 60 time was just 1.88 with nitto DR's. I'm going with a 3200 stall by circle D. Hope I get similiar results. Thanks for the info.
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Old Feb 29, 2012 | 08:15 PM
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The most important part of a stall is getting a tranny cooler!
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Old Feb 29, 2012 | 08:49 PM
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I ordered a B&M cooler. Should work ok I guess.
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Old Mar 5, 2012 | 11:59 AM
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Originally Posted by bosco 08
Do you have a part number for the converter you are running? There are a few choices on their website and it gets confusing.
Thanks.

Unfortunately I don't. All I know is that it is a 12" 2800 Pro Torque from Chuck. I'm not sure if it is something on their website or if it is something they are making specifically for Chuck.

The only other thing about I know is that I really like it. I knew there was a converter in my previous cars, but I don't even notice it in this one. Maybe give Chuck a call for more info.
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Old Mar 5, 2012 | 12:07 PM
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Default It's a custom 12" 2800 converter.....

Originally Posted by Polar Jet
Unfortunately I don't. All I know is that it is a 12" 2800 Pro Torque from Chuck. I'm not sure if it is something on their website or if it is something they are making specifically for Chuck.

The only other thing about I know is that I really like it. I knew there was a converter in my previous cars, but I don't even notice it in this one. Maybe give Chuck a call for more info.
It's a custom 12" 2800 converter we've been working on for a VERY long time.

It's unlike anything else out there internally and it looks like STOCK for those trips to the dealer.

POLAR JET can tell you just how nice it drives.

Keep in mind, this is NOT a full race converter were calling a "street converter".

Too many guys drive 3400 and up converters on the street and call them "STREETABLE".

Yes, you can drive them but they are not considered "STREETABLE" in my book.

Driving normally, you can NOT tell there is a converter in the car which is how we like em.

When you hit the pedal, they come to life....

Call any time!
Chuck CoW
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Old Mar 5, 2012 | 01:07 PM
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What is the STR on the Pro Torque converters?
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Old Mar 5, 2012 | 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Polar Jet
Unfortunately I don't. All I know is that it is a 12" 2800 Pro Torque from Chuck. I'm not sure if it is something on their website or if it is something they are making specifically for Chuck.

The only other thing about I know is that I really like it. I knew there was a converter in my previous cars, but I don't even notice it in this one.
Nice.
Any drag strip/track results, sixty foot improvements at all?

I mean, if I wanted a converter that "feels" completely bone stock then I would just save the $900.00 - $1400.00 (parts/labor/tuning etc.) and leave the bone stock one in there LOL.

There's no cosmically 'magical' converter that both delivers results AND also feels as if it's not even there.
And no, a barely 1/10th improvement in ET is NOT my idea of 'results'.
If it looks like stock, and it feels like stock then it must be stock, no?

I'm not doubting that it feels like stock and is totally streetable, I'm just curious if it's really doing anything notable (a good converter, even a mild one, will reduce 1/4 mile ETs by at least 4/10ths) for the car's acceleration, otherwise, why bother? There are other far cheaper ways to achieve such a minute improvement.
Show me the 'before/after' sixty foots and I'll be a believer.
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Old Mar 5, 2012 | 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by LS1LT1
Nice.
Any drag strip/track results, sixty foot improvements at all?

I mean, if I wanted a converter that "feels" completely bone stock then I would just save the $900.00 - $1400.00 (parts/labor/tuning etc.) and leave the bone stock one in there LOL.

There's no cosmically 'magical' converter that both delivers results AND also feels as if it's not even there.
And no, a barely 1/10th improvement in ET is NOT my idea of 'results'.
If it looks like stock, and it feels like stock then it must be stock, no?

I'm not doubting that it feels like stock and is totally streetable, I'm just curious if it's really doing anything notable (a good converter, even a mild one, will reduce 1/4 mile ETs by at least 4/10ths) for the car's acceleration, otherwise, why bother? There are other far cheaper ways to achieve such a minute improvement.
Show me the 'before/after' sixty foots and I'll be a believer.
Couldn't have said it better myself...
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Old Mar 5, 2012 | 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by LS1LT1
Nice.
Any drag strip/track results, sixty foot improvements at all?

I mean, if I wanted a converter that "feels" completely bone stock then I would just save the $900.00 - $1400.00 (parts/labor/tuning etc.) and leave the bone stock one in there LOL.

There's no cosmically 'magical' converter that both delivers results AND also feels as if it's not even there.
And no, a barely 1/10th improvement in ET is NOT my idea of 'results'.
If it looks like stock, and it feels like stock then it must be stock, no?

I'm not doubting that it feels like stock and is totally streetable, I'm just curious if it's really doing anything notable (a good converter, even a mild one, will reduce 1/4 mile ETs by at least 4/10ths) for the car's acceleration, otherwise, why bother? There are other far cheaper ways to achieve such a minute improvement.
Show me the 'before/after' sixty foots and I'll be a believer.
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Old Mar 5, 2012 | 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Polar Jet
Unfortunately I don't. All I know is that it is a 12" 2800 Pro Torque from Chuck. I'm not sure if it is something on their website or if it is something they are making specifically for Chuck.

The only other thing about I know is that I really like it. I knew there was a converter in my previous cars, but I don't even notice it in this one. Maybe give Chuck a call for more info.
Thanks.
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Old Mar 5, 2012 | 05:31 PM
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So can anyone describe what is different "feeling" wise for a higher stall converter?

With the stock converter, at a red light, you take your foot off the brake and the car will move forward without touching the accelerator pedal. I hear with a higher stall converter you will not go anywhere and mush touch the pedal to move. Any truth to this? What are the other quirks? Reduced mileage?
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Old Mar 5, 2012 | 05:41 PM
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It depends on the stall a 3200 has a slight slippage and is hardly different than stock, but a 3600 and larger is a little more noticable. If you are not going to run the 1/4 mile it is not worth putting a larger stall. If you have a larger than stock cam the stall helps keep the car from surging at idle. I think for the 1/4 mile a 3200 or larger converter is the best mod as it will get you 4 tenths or more depending on your combination of mods.
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Old Mar 5, 2012 | 06:54 PM
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stick with 2800 or less for a street only car...I have gone looser in the past and was sorry for the soggy manners but it does help at the strip if you have got the gears/traction.
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Old Mar 5, 2012 | 11:02 PM
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This is starting to sound like a 160 T-stat thread or which oil is best thread.
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