When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Been reading alot about h/c/i set ups. Was wondering what is the primary cause(s) of a cam,lifter and/or spring failure? I mean is it an oversight or miscalulation when parts were chosen for the build or improper maintenance?
Its hard to know the causes for sure but my thought is improper matching of parts, improper spring installation, and or improper cam and spring break in.
I broke a valve spring on my H&C LS2. I was running dual springs so that saved the engine. I was counting on changing them every 25k but it was only 15k. I hope it was a bad batch but just in case I changed manufacturers.
Do we really have to change out valve springs with a mid grade cam?! OEM springs are usually good with OEM cams, even the GM hot cams that are on the Z06's. I put on some good patriot gold dual valve springs, but I am only going to like .620 lift.
Do we really have to change out valve springs with a mid grade cam?! OEM springs are usually good with OEM cams, even the GM hot cams that are on the Z06's. I put on some good patriot gold dual valve springs, but I am only going to like .620 lift.
I found it to be cheap insurance (it already saved the engine) I have way more that .620 lift and I live WAY OVER 6K revs
Been reading alot about h/c/i set ups. Was wondering what is the primary cause(s) of a cam,lifter and/or spring failure? I mean is it an oversight or miscalulation when parts were chosen for the build or improper maintenance?
high lift which requires high spring pressures which requires diligent attention to spring condition. frequent spring replacement required especially if the valves have been floated.if you only run these combinations at the track they usually last quite some time.if only run 1/4 mile at a time adds up to lots of runs in 10,000 miles.cant have it both ways.what do you want to do drag race or dd?if doing both you need to pay the piper.usually poor maintenance is your culprit but anything man made can fail
high lift which requires high spring pressures which requires diligent attention to spring condition. frequent spring replacement required especially if the valves have been floated.if you only run these combinations at the track they usually last quite some time.if only run 1/4 mile at a time adds up to lots of runs in 10,000 miles.cant have it both ways.what do you want to do drag race or dd?if doing both you need to pay the piper.usually poor maintenance is your culprit but anything man made can fail
i am setting the the car up for a bad azz street car and any racing would be on a road course
i am setting the the car up for a bad azz street car and any racing would be on a road course
If you're going to be road racing, then I would recommend a cam with a softer ramp rate to be easier on the valvetrain at high rpm and help it last longer.
If you're going to be road racing, then I would recommend a cam with a softer ramp rate to be easier on the valvetrain at high rpm and help it last longer.
From what ive gathered (from the road race forum),i need to keep the lift under 600 for high rpm runs. Brian tooley and I have talked a few times and he will be making the cam recomendation, porting the tf220 (as cast) heads and portmatching my fast 102 to match when I decide to pull the trigger. Im just trying to learn as much as I can from others who have done it and were successful/un successful.
From what ive gathered (from the road race forum),i need to keep the lift under 600 for high rpm runs. Brian tooley and I have talked a few times and he will be making the cam recomendation, porting the tf220 (as cast) heads and portmatching my fast 102 to match when I decide to pull the trigger. Im just trying to learn as much as I can from others who have done it and were successful/un successful.
It's not peak lift that fatigues a spring as much as jerk, how quickly the valve is accelerated open/shut. ie XER lobes can be under .600" lift, but are harder on springs than a LXL or XFI lobe which are over .600" lift. Regardless BT will point you in the right direction
St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
Originally Posted by irok
high lift which requires high spring pressures which requires diligent attention to spring condition. frequent spring replacement required especially if the valves have been floated.if you only run these combinations at the track they usually last quite some time.if only run 1/4 mile at a time adds up to lots of runs in 10,000 miles.cant have it both ways.what do you want to do drag race or dd?if doing both you need to pay the piper.usually poor maintenance is your culprit but anything man made can fail
You have to make sure all of the components are matched to each other and what you are doing with it. Someone stated in one of the posts about road race cars being under 0.600" lift.....I do not agree with that. They may have a different lobe profile on the cam, or have to use a different lifter.
Also, oil is a big part of this. If you expect to crank in a lot more HP, lift, and duration to the engine and expect it to live on crappy 5w30 engine oil.....think again. Just like above, you need to match all of the parts together to run correctly.
I have 57,000 daily driving miles & about 400 passes on my LG g5x3 setup. The first 40k miles were on 2 sets of Patriot Gold springs and the remainder on Comp 921's. I'm due to replace my springs soon, I like to do it around 20k miles or so.