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ATF Cooler for '13 GS

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Old May 12, 2014 | 08:08 AM
  #41  
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Another thing to consider is that the tube and fin coolers are lighter and are less of an airflow restriction than the plate type cooler (although the t&f types are usually larger due to being less efficient) and so the plate type "super coolers" are better suited for being mounted with their own fan, in a remote location, instead of being hung in front of the A/C core and radiator.

So, to state the obvious, from what I'm hearing, if I install a supercharger, I need the DeWitts rad, a 160* thermostat, and a good stand alone cooler with its own fan for the ATF ( and most likely one for the engine oil as we'll). Basically, upgrade everything over stock, since these cars are already struggling to keep their fluids cool at stock power levels.
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Old May 12, 2014 | 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by CI GS
if I install a supercharger, I need the DeWitts rad, a 160* thermostat, and a good stand alone cooler with its own fan for the ATF ( and most likely one for the engine oil as we'll).
The Dewitt's radiator is not necessary but I can say the ATF cooler is mandatory.

Basically, upgrade everything over stock, since these cars are already struggling to keep their fluids cool at stock power levels.
I wouldn't say upgrade everything but adding an ATF cooler and upgrading the alternator should be on the "must do" list especially on Forced Induction C6's.
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Old May 12, 2014 | 12:59 PM
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CI GS, I agree, I too would have liked GM to at least have options for transmission and differential coolers for the A-6. I would have gladly paid for them.

The system is closely engineered so the temps I see while normally driving isn't really a bother. There is a 100,000 mile warranty on the drivetrain so it doesn't follow GM under engineered the A-6 and its cooling system for normal every day use. But we aren't really talking about normal every day use now are we? So with the added loads, additional attention must be paid to keeping the transmission within normal operating parameters which is +/- 20 degrees of coolant temps (got that little factoid from GM engineering courtesy of GM Customer service that monitors this forum).

About as close to plug-n-play you'll find are the DRM coolers and the C-5 T-1 cooler kit for the diff and manual transmission. Since we are talking about A-6's, you might be able to install a cooler only back in one of the wheel wells, no pump needed.
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Old May 12, 2014 | 01:32 PM
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Originally Posted by I wouldn't say upgrade [b
everything[/b] but adding an ATF cooler and upgrading the alternator should be on the "must do" list especially on Forced Induction C6's.
Not to hijack the thread, but just curious whey upgrading the alternator is a "must do" ?
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Old May 12, 2014 | 02:11 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by realcanuk
Not to hijack the thread, but just curious whey upgrading the alternator is a "must do" ?
The damn C6 alternator is what - 60 amps at best HOT rated?
Sitting in traffic with A/C on in Texas and you're lucky to pull 13 volts under 1300 rpm with it dipping into the low 12's high 11's at idle -- and that's BEFORE you add any other items to the system like ATF coolers with fans.
Countless threads on here and other forums about the crappy alternator output when hot ... the factory rating of 100 amps is cold rated and that is useless for anything outside of marketing reasons.
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Old May 12, 2014 | 02:15 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by M M Alexander
The damn C6 alternator is what - 60 amps at best HOT rated?
Sitting in traffic with A/C on in Texas and you're lucky to pull 13 volts under 1300 rpm with it dipping into the low 12's high 11's at idle -- and that's BEFORE you add any other items to the system like ATF coolers with fans.
Countless threads on here and other forums about the crappy alternator output when hot ... the factory rating of 100 amps is cold rated and that is useless for anything outside of marketing reasons.
Got it. Must be the hot temperatures. Its rarely over 90 degrees here and I have a trans cooler with fan, a pump for the intercooler, extra gauges, etc, etc, running all the time and never see less than 13 volts, rarely less the 13.5. That is on my original 2007 alternator.
I almost hope mine would go, so I have an excuse to get one of those nice billet tech ones.
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Old May 12, 2014 | 02:24 PM
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I've spent some time in Montreal (Katherine Street and the underground tunnels/shops mostly) during the winter months (was building a GE wind site across the birder in Clinton/Altona New York) and it was always frigid! I don't ever remember seeing a 90* day - Here in Houston, it's 90* before 10 AM in the late Spring - ALL Summer months. I just ordered one of those Billet Tech units. I like to run A/C and have my stereo on blast when sitting in traffic ... so good/voltage and amperage is a must.
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Old May 12, 2014 | 02:56 PM
  #48  
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I never thought about the alternator, but you're right. With my fans on 99.9 % the other day, I saw the idle voltage at 12.5 volts, and as soon as I bumped the throttle up a bit, it went up to like 13.1, whereas with the stock fan settings I've never seen less than 13.4 at idle.

Last edited by CI GS; May 12, 2014 at 02:58 PM.
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Old May 12, 2014 | 05:04 PM
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Originally Posted by M M Alexander
I've spent some time in Montreal (Katherine Street and the underground tunnels/shops mostly) during the winter months (was building a GE wind site across the birder in Clinton/Altona New York) and it was always frigid! I don't ever remember seeing a 90* day - Here in Houston, it's 90* before 10 AM in the late Spring - ALL Summer months. I just ordered one of those Billet Tech units. I like to run A/C and have my stereo on blast when sitting in traffic ... so good/voltage and amperage is a must.
Your lucky. Only warm for a few hours in the summer here!!
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Old May 12, 2014 | 05:06 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by CI GS
I never thought about the alternator, but you're right. With my fans on 99.9 % the other day, I saw the idle voltage at 12.5 volts, and as soon as I bumped the throttle up a bit, it went up to like 13.1, whereas with the stock fan settings I've never seen less than 13.4 at idle.
Running the fans like that is asking for wiring trouble. I run mine at 90 percent max and it does the job fine. Then again I have dual fans and a dewitts so I'm sure that helps.
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Old May 12, 2014 | 05:43 PM
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Originally Posted by CI GS
With my fans on 99.9 % the other day, I saw ...
Originally Posted by realcanuk
Running the fans like that is asking for wiring trouble. I run mine at 90 percent max and it does the job fine. Then again I have dual fans and a dewitts so I'm sure that helps.
He's not running the fans @ 99% ... He was saying the fans were "on" for 99% of the total time he was driving the car.
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Old May 12, 2014 | 08:13 PM
  #52  
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Several pics here. The larger cooler will fit just takes some work.
Long dead tread so no comments please.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/auto...-course-t.html
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Old May 12, 2014 | 09:02 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by M M Alexander
He's not running the fans @ 99% ... He was saying the fans were "on" for 99% of the total time he was driving the car.
No, sorry for the confusion - I actually meant that I had them set to run at 99.99% at anything over 196 degrees. I think I'm going to change the setting back to 90% though, in light of what realcanuk and others have said. It kinda pi$$es me off though that I can't run them @ 100% at higher temps because that brings the temps down a few degrees. WTF is up with GM with this anyway? Whats the use of only being able to run your fans at 90% in a car that's famous for overheating, just because a stupid wire connector will burn up? Couldn't they have fixed this **** that has plagued our cars after all the years the C6 was in production? Sorry for the rant, but I feel a little bit better now.
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Old May 12, 2014 | 09:14 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by blkbrd69
Several pics here. The larger cooler will fit just takes some work.
Long dead tread so no comments please.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/auto...-course-t.html
Thanks! There's a lot of interesting and useful info in that thread.
I'm now back to where I started - I'm thinking of buying the larger B&M fan and supercooler module.

Last edited by CI GS; May 13, 2014 at 12:46 AM.
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Old May 12, 2014 | 10:02 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by CI GS
No, sorry for the confusion - I actually meant that I had them set to run at 99.99% at anything over 196 degrees. I think I'm going to change the setting back to 90% though, in light of what realcanuk and others have said. It kinda pi$$es me off though that I can't run them @ 100% at higher temps because that brings the temps down a few degrees. WTF is up with GM with this anyway? Whats the use of only being able to run your fans at 90% in a car that's famous for overheating, just because a stupid wire connector will burn up? Couldn't they have fixed this **** that has plagued our cars after all the years the C6 was in production? Sorry for the rant, but I feel a little bit better now.
Well sh** I AM SORRY Canuk- I misunderstood his posting then!
On why GM took short cuts - simple ... BEAN COUNTERS run the Engineering Departments.
I still laugh when I read post on here about " how well Engineered the C6 is..." Miss me with that crap.
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Old May 13, 2014 | 09:11 AM
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Originally Posted by M M Alexander
Well sh** I AM SORRY Canuk- I misunderstood his posting then!
On why GM took short cuts - simple ... BEAN COUNTERS run the Engineering Departments.
I still laugh when I read post on here about " how well Engineered the C6 is..." Miss me with that crap.
I don't think the C6 is badly engineered, since it can perform with European cars that cost twice as much. I think that GM simply has to cut corners in construction to save costs so that it can be sold at their desired price point. In doing so, they use cheaper materials for non-structural and interior parts and leave off stuff like proximity sensors, reverse cameras and auxiliary equipment that would enhance performance. That why my dashboard squeaks, even though my car only has 1528 miles on it...
The really unfortunate thing is that they seem to assume that the A6 cars will be driven as grocery-getters and that real performance drivers only drive manuals (there's a lot of that on here too). Yet, their European "competition" have developed instant shift, dual clutch/sequential gearboxes that have even the most hard-core of European drivers turning their backs on manual cars, simply because they can't compete with newer technology.
And GM wouldn't have had to reinvent the wheel to follow suit. Imagine for a second how well the ZR1 (or Z06) would perform if it had been offered with a tuned, dry-sump version of the 6L90. Maybe they'll see the light with the C7, but for now it looks like they will stick with the stick.

EDIT: after reading the article in Vette magazine today about the new 8 speed auto transmission that's going to be offered in the new Z06, it looks like I have to eat my words, because GM seems to finally have gotten it that the way to compete with the European double-clutch competitors of the Vette is to go auto, and they're building a serious A8 there. They have re-engineered the entire transmission, including the converter, and it appears to have a stand alone cooler on it from the factory. That Z06 sounds like it's going to be one awesome ride. I'm not a big fan of the lines on the C7 but that Z06 is really starting to look real good to me now. I'm betting that sucker is going to runs a high 10 out of the box with the 8L80 with just drag radials on it. Now we will get to see which one is faster, the paddle or the stick...

Last edited by CI GS; May 19, 2014 at 08:33 PM.
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Old May 13, 2014 | 01:47 PM
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My car made noise too that I thought was coming from the dash, turned out to be the top which I fixed with slightly larger O.D./better material O-rings in place of the stockers and I took a 15mm deep socket to tighten up the posts in the top too, one or two took approx. a full turn to tighten back up. So take the top off and go for a ride to see if the noise stops.

PS: The car has the sound of silence now, even over tracks.

Last edited by C7/Z06 Man; May 13, 2014 at 01:49 PM.
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Old May 13, 2014 | 10:03 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by mikeCsix
After reading your post, I'm having trouble with the idea the transmission would cool below coolant temp once the transmission was at temperature. This is an impossible expectation without an external cooler. If you drive the car hard enough to heat the transmission well above the coolant temp, the radiator coolant can and will bring the temp down, though it may not be quick enough for you (it isn't for me either plus I don't like the transmission temps getting to the point where the car goes into limp mode). Here is another thought, with an additional 200hp, figure out the btu's produced by those extra ponies and how much more of a cooling load is placed on the system. This is where a DeWitts or Ron Davis aftermarket radiator makes a lot of sense.

I like the idea of placing the cooler in the front, ahead of the radiator. I too have been thinking about that area and installing both external EOC/TOC's there, side by side.
Someone pointed out in another thread that the coolant and trans temps are measured at about the hottest part in their respective systems, but the factory trans cooler is installed in the right radiator tank, where the coolant has already gone through the radiator and is much cooler than we are reading on the coolant temperature gauge.

That might explain why I was only showing a trans temp of 210' stuck in heavy traffic for an hour, while the coolant was reading about 220' most of that time.

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Old May 13, 2014 | 10:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Gearhead Jim
Someone pointed out in another thread that the coolant and trans temps are measured at about the hottest part in their respective systems, but the factory trans cooler is installed in the right radiator tank, where the coolant has already gone through the radiator and is much cooler than we are reading on the coolant temperature gauge.

That might explain why I was only showing a trans temp of 210' stuck in heavy traffic for an hour, while the coolant was reading about 220' most of that time.

Hi Jim, your experience falls in line with what GM says, +/- 20deg of coolant temps. Its the track application that's challenging. The A6 is awesome on the track. In my 08, I could be hard into a turn and downshift with the paddle without affecting balance. Turns are where the diff heats up forcing the trans into double duty for cooling. There is a lot of guess work attempting to size a cooler for 30 minutes hpde and of course, the more skilled the driver, the more heat generated. Its really tempting to install a pair of coolers in the rear brake ducts and a Z06 eoc in the front.
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Old May 14, 2014 | 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by CI GS
I don't think the C6 is badly engineered, ...
The really unfortunate thing is that they seem to assume that the A6 cars will be driven as grocery-getters and that real performance drivers only drive manuals (there's a lot of that on here too)....
A. Maybe they'll see the light with the C7, but for now it looks like they will stick with the stick.
GM knows the C6 is/was lacking in some major categorizes Engineering wise but the numbers dictated that those items weren't prudent for the bottom line.
Even in the C7 the Transmission temps are currently an issue - and GM actually "attempted" to address the trans temps in those cars with the vents on the top sides (which make the car hideous in my opinion) & by using a transmission cooler/fan.
If you look over the proposed Z07 with an Auto, they're going so far as mounting the Trans Cooler/Fan combo in pretty much the same spot as I have mine -

Click Here for thread with Pics

And they say us Industrial Engineering graduates are not really Engineers, LOL!
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