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For the A6 guys with Transmission coolers: which type of cooler do you use and where/how did you mount it? I'm going to install a converter soon, but I'm thinking I need to get the ATF temps under control before I do that. I am also thinking I may end up going the FI route, so wanted to know whether I should do a stand-alone ATF cooler with its own fan in a remote location, to avoid having to move it when I mount the intercooler or heat exchanger. Pictures of any installs would be greatly appreciated.
For the A6 guys with Transmission coolers: which type of cooler do you use and where/how did you mount it? I'm going to install a converter soon, but I'm thinking I need to get the ATF temps under control before I do that. I am also thinking I may end up going the FI route, so wanted to know whether I should do a stand-alone ATF cooler with its own fan in a remote location, to avoid having to move it when I mount the intercooler or heat exchanger. Pictures of any installs would be greatly appreciated.
I was getting "flares" when the temps would get into the >190* range during WOT after the blower install. Not to mention just normal driving the temps would creep into the 200* range and i just was not comfortable with that at all.
The cooler and some creative wiring. I use a SPDT relay and a toggle switch to control the fan through the N/O contact. The temp switch that comes installed on the B&M is used as a fail safe if the relay fails and runs through the N/C side of said relay.
In traffic with 90* ambient outside, trans fluid is not above 187*. Once traffic frees up, temps drop to the 160* range quickly.
By far the best mod I've done to the car
Last edited by M M Alexander; May 8, 2014 at 11:22 AM.
Reason: hyper link
Hey thanks man! I read through your entire thread. That's quite a beast you've got there.
I was looking at the same cooler (I think) this morning on the Summit website, but just couldn't figure out where to mount it. That's a pretty creative way to do it.
I was thinking of just hard-wiring the really to a battery source so that the fan comes on once the temp reaches 175 degrees.
Thanks again.
Supplied temp,switch activates the fan too late for my liking. In the cooler months it's. A great option I'm sure (which is why I wired my relay the way I did ). The trans temps get too high when you let the B&M temp switch control the fan.
I run the same cooler mounted in a very similar way. I agree the fan activates too late with the supplied thermo switch. I have it wired to run all the time, but I have a fuse readily accessible under the hood, which I can remove if I want to run without the fan. Since I don't drive my car in the winter, I have not run without the fan yet.
Thanks guys. This is the kind of info I was looking for. I was looking at the slightly larger unit, part # 70297, which is 13.5 " x 10" with a 9.5" fan, but I'm not sure if it could fit where you guys have it mounted. It looks like you have a little bit of space, but I can't tell from the photos if it could actually fit. I'm going to put it up on the ramps and check it out and measure everything properly before I order anything. Thanks again. Your input is very helpful and greatly appreciated.
I'm running a B&M (I believe) cooler as well. Had it installed by a local shop, so not sure on the specifics. In driver front fender, base '13. Wired with a relay to run constantly.
I was seeing 190-210 semi-constantly around town in spring, 80degree ambient (south Louisiana). I knew the fluid wouldn't last long during the summer at that rate.
Highest I've seen with the cooler is 170, and that's driving pretty hard.
Should have it at the track within the next 3 weeks after I get some new rubber on the wheels. Hopefully temps will stay in a more acceptable range (think I saw 230 at one point during HPDE last fall/winter)
Thanks guys. This is the kind of info I was looking for. I was looking at the slightly larger unit, part # 70297, which is 13.5 " x 10" with a 9.5" fan, but I'm not sure if it could fit where you guys have it mounted. It looks like you have a little bit of space, but I can't tell from the photos if it could actually fit. I'm going to put it up on the ramps and check it out and measure everything properly before I order anything. Thanks again. Your input is very helpful and greatly appreciated.
The larger model does not fit where mine is mounted. I originally tried it but had to swap for the smaller one.
Thanks again guys. Too bad that no one offers a bolt-in kit with all of the necessary brackets. But it doesn't look too hard to make some up.
I think from what I've seen and read that a trans oil cooler is a must have item for ALL A6 Corvettes, because I think it's the 200+ degree temps that kill these transmissions more than anything else.
The A-6 will run hotter than 230, there is an overtemp setting that will eventually kick in which will put you in limp mode, or so I've heard.
I've had mine to 240 a few times at hpde events, I took the car in for a trans flush and filter change. The dealer and mechanic reported the oil looked like brand new as did the filter.
I don't like running it at 240 so when it reaches that temp I'll start some cooling laps to bring it down. I intend to fit a cooler but not a big fan of using a fan and the locations I've seen so far haven't been to my liking.
Another thought is to cool the differential, the transmission is acting to cool the diff but it really needs its own cooler and should help keep transmission temps down. Lots of directions to go, there is a T-1 setup for the C-5 which is very similar in principal to the DRM version and there is the LG Motorsports version (the one I like the most but also the most expensive option), then there is the issue of radiator placement - somewhere in the back of the car.
Also a cooler thermostat will help for a little while, however if you can drive the temps up to 240, they are going to get there sooner or later regardless of what thermostat you use - later if the 160 is installed, earlier if the 192 is installed.
I was going to mention a DeWitts. Still hitting 240s with that? I was considering getting one before my tuner recommend the standalone cooler. Guess I'm glad I went that route (although I don't particularly like holes drilled in my wheel well..) saved some cash as well i suppose
Stupid question. Why not get an OE or aftermarket radiator with a trans cooler built in it?
I would assume cost is a factor..I want to say mine was under $500 but I don't have a receipt in front of me and I had a few other things done to the car at the same time. I would assume a Dewitt's with a TOC would be significantly more costly, not to mention a more complicated install with a full coolant drain/flush, and possibly an oil drain/change if you went the EOC route as well.
Not to say it wouldn't be worth it, but I'm not sure what the effectiveness of the integrated systems is compared to a standalone cooler.
What do you think came with the car from the factory?!
I don't have an automatic trans car, so I don't know, but post on this thread says that there isn't a trans cooler. To be frank, I found that hard to believe that the car doesn't have a cooler.
but post on this thread says that there isn't a trans cooler. ..
I did not see a posting that stated there wasn't a factory installed trans cooling set-up
To be frank, I found that hard to believe that the car doesn't have a cooler.
Factory set-up is ran through the radiator just like most other cars but it's highly ineffective at keeping the fluid temps under 190 (runs @ or above 200 )
Factory set-up is ran through the radiator just like most other cars but it's highly ineffective at keeping the fluid temps under 190 (runs @ or above 200 )
That's an inherent shortcoming of running all your coolers through the same radiator; the temps of all the fluids are going to be about the same range. Which isn't good when you need coolant to be 190, oil to be 210, and trans fluid to be <170 for optimum life. Guess I answered my own question on the DeWitts ha.
The A-6 will run hotter than 230, there is an overtemp setting that will eventually kick in which will put you in limp mode, or so I've heard.
I've had mine to 240 a few times at hpde events, I took the car in for a trans flush and filter change. The dealer and mechanic reported the oil looked like brand new as did the filter.
I don't like running it at 240 so when it reaches that temp I'll start some cooling laps to bring it down. I intend to fit a cooler but not a big fan of using a fan and the locations I've seen so far haven't been to my liking.
Another thought is to cool the differential, the transmission is acting to cool the diff but it really needs its own cooler and should help keep transmission temps down. Lots of directions to go, there is a T-1 setup for the C-5 which is very similar in principal to the DRM version and there is the LG Motorsports version (the one I like the most but also the most expensive option), then there is the issue of radiator placement - somewhere in the back of the car.
Also a cooler thermostat will help for a little while, however if you can drive the temps up to 240, they are going to get there sooner or later regardless of what thermostat you use - later if the 160 is installed, earlier if the 192 is installed.
I also have a DeWitts radiator with EOC/TOC.
Wow, that's some pretty high temps you're running. Glad to hear that it doesn't seem to have hurt your trans.
It never occurred to me before that cooling the diff might help. That's a very good point.
It seems like the real problem is that these cars just can't move enough air through the grille to cool the radiator effectively, especially one that has a EOC and TOC cooler and is trying to cool the engine and transmission at the same time.
I have a friend with a C5 that mounted a standalone Derale fan and cooler module somewhere under the rear of the car and used that exclusively to cool the transmission oil. I'm going to check with him tomorrow and see how he did it. If memory serves, he claimed that he saw about a 20 degree drop in temps with that.
That's an inherent shortcoming of running all your coolers through the same radiator; the temps of all the fluids are going to be about the same range. Which isn't good when you need coolant to be 190, oil to be 210, and trans fluid to be <170 for optimum life. Guess I answered my own question on the DeWitts ha.
I guess now we know why Bugatti installed 10 radiators on the Veyron!
Wow, that's some pretty high temps you're running. Glad to hear that it doesn't seem to have hurt your trans.
It never occurred to me before that cooling the diff might help. That's a very good point.
It seems like the real problem is that these cars just can't move enough air through the grille to cool the radiator effectively, especially one that has a EOC and TOC cooler and is trying to cool the engine and transmission at the same time.
I have a friend with a C5 that mounted a standalone Derale fan and cooler module somewhere under the rear of the car and used that exclusively to cool the transmission oil. I'm going to check with him tomorrow and see how he did it. If memory serves, he claimed that he saw about a 20 degree drop in temps with that.
That's my point, I'm still within design*limits @ 240. Just have to watch it. There is enough airflow through the grill, these cars are well engineered but they aren't race cars. The DeWitts radiator enhanced the cooling systems ability to absorb more heat. On a track with fewer turns, I may not see these temps. I'll find out later this year. Bye the way, the GS is a front breather along with the Z's. As gir the A6's, they are tough and perform well on a road course and very smooth. One instructor asked if I was shifting, I assured him I was pounding up and down the gears! He had a GT3 Cup Car with a sequential transmission.