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schpenxel is the man getting those done off the ground
doing another on today on this beauty 60th ZR1
Happy Easter.
Im about to tackle this job. Will be using my buddies lift. Which I have used to pull motor and trans out of my boys 03’ Mustang GT. We swapped it to a 04’ Mach 1 4v. Then a couple months or so later he decided to have trans rebuilt and upgrade clutch. Saved money. So pulled it and got it all fresh and back in. Did lowering springs on my other boys Audi A4.
Reason for mentioning these is to give you an idea that I have some decent mechanical skills. My question is about the lift and dropping cradle and tq tube. Are you using the factory lift points? Does this require a stand under the front to prevent tipping forward? As the lift point is behind the engine.
Your write up should make this go fairly smoothly. Also planning an E85 safe fuel pump swap while the cradle is out. Read that it’s much easier to do then. Next winter I’m going to swap cams for a more modern proven variant then what’s in it and go e85/Flex set up.
Thank you for your time. Just want to have all my ducks in a row before starting.
Reason for mentioning these is to give you an idea that I have some decent mechanical skills. My question is about the lift and dropping cradle and tq tube. Are you using the factory lift points? Does this require a stand under the front to prevent tipping forward? As the lift point is behind the engine.
.......
I used the factory lift points with a QuickJack lift. I did not notice any tendency to tip forward. I did support the engine cradle just to be sure, however, since I'm a nervous about accidents. Be careful during removal because the intake manifold will get scary close to the firewall as the engine rocks backward. I'm not sure its the best way to handle it, but I supported the engine with a 2x4 under the back of the oil pan and a jack.
Factory lift points always as otherwise you crack the fiberglass rocker panels.
It won't tilt off the hoist. I pulled, engines, pulled torque tubes, and even dropped both front and rear sections at the same time.
I have noticed a lot of broken engine mounts and people didn't even know. If the engine seems very flexable so to speak, I'd look at the mounts.
Have any other questions feel free to ask.
James
Half way done with my first clutch change!!! These write ups have made it much less intimidating and enjoyable even on jacks!!!....THANK YOU... Could you possible lead me in the right direction of getting that extension fitting between the slave and the speed bleeder? I got a Tick performance bleeder and it does not have that piece. Thanks again.
Last edited by captain trash; Nov 3, 2019 at 10:07 AM.
.... I got a Tick performance bleeder and it does not have that piece ....
I ordered the same part from Tick and it had the fitting to the slave, the braided cable, and the bleeder on the end. I'm sure if you're missing a piece Tick will send it to you.
Yep that's it, just install that and then the braided line into it in place of the long bleeder that was in the original.
(BTW: I didn't want to have to redo the fitting so I used a thread sealant for hydraulic fittings in addition to proper torque. Don't use Teflon tape. )
Oh I forgot, be sure to point the elbow connection toward the master, if you can, makes routing a lot easier.
Half way done with my first clutch change!!! These write ups have made it much less intimidating and enjoyable even on jacks!!!....THANK YOU... Could you possible lead me in the right direction of getting that extension fitting between the slave and the speed bleeder? I got a Tick performance bleeder and it does not have that piece. Thanks again.
Yeah, this is the best clutch install how-to I have ever seen and I used this when I did mine.
As for the Tick bleeder, I advice being very very careful when you re-install the torque tube as it seems to be relatively easy to bump the fitting and crack it and then you only realize this when you have a massive leak but everything has been re-installed.
A lot of people recommend going with the Katech bleeder because of this potential issue.
Rpmextra, thank you for the write-up!!! Just started my clutch R/R. Tons of great info throughout. Metal bearing race inbound. No idea that was available until I read this thread. Thank you all!
Half way done with my first clutch change!!! These write ups have made it much less intimidating and enjoyable even on jacks!!!....THANK YOU... Could you possible lead me in the right direction of getting that extension fitting between the slave and the speed bleeder? I got a Tick performance bleeder and it does not have that piece. Thanks again.
Captain trash, where is the jack stand located in you picture (or is that one just off to the side)? I have mine on the rear lift point but I would like to move them aft, if possible. Thank you!
Captain trash, where is the jack stand located in you picture (or is that one just off to the side)? I have mine on the rear lift point but I would like to move them aft, if possible. Thank you!
I had all four of them under the main lifting points by the rockers. Sorry for the late response.
And of course this happened shortly after the clutch replacement.......I put about 400 street miles on the new clutch no issues, sounds, nothing. Went to the Mondo event at Wild Horse and was on my last session of the day when this happened. Obviously I drive the heck out of my car but it happened at a moderate acceleration in third gear after a nice straight down the strip. Didn't have any warning signs; my RPM's suddenly went through the roof as if the car had come out of gear. Tried to put it back in gear (it was still in gear) and nothing...Called the tow truck! Just wanted to share this with everyone. I of course initially thought the mechanic (me) F'd something up, but to my surprise all was good with the clutch and what I actually touched (unless anyone can speculate otherwise)....anyways like I said just want to share my epic failure with everyone...feel free to laugh at my expense.
And of course this happened shortly after the clutch replacement.......I put about 400 street miles on the new clutch no issues, sounds, nothing. Went to the Mondo event at Wild Horse and was on my last session of the day when this happened. Obviously I drive the heck out of my car but it happened at a moderate acceleration in third gear after a nice straight down the strip. Didn't have any warning signs; my RPM's suddenly went through the roof as if the car had come out of gear. Tried to put it back in gear (it was still in gear) and nothing...Called the tow truck! Just wanted to share this with everyone. I of course initially thought the mechanic (me) F'd something up, but to my surprise all was good with the clutch and what I actually touched (unless anyone can speculate otherwise)....anyways like I said just want to share my epic failure with everyone...feel free to laugh at my expense.
This hurts my heart. I just completed my first clutch install using this guide (and I disagree, this is NOT enjoyable on jack stands ). Getting the torque tube lined up was a bitch, let alone having this happen. Sorry, brother. Hope you get it fixed soon!
Last edited by kjcmusic17; Dec 26, 2019 at 11:22 AM.
This thread is a few years old now, but wanted to say thank you for putting together this guide. I just fitted a lightweight flywheel and swapped to 4.10 gears, this guide let me do all the work myself (except the diff internals), with a 1 metre high lift. The only thing I wish I'd done different was to double check the angle of the remote clutch bleed line when tightening the subframe nuts, the bleed line is a bit tight against the chassis.
Just wanted to share this with everyone. I of course initially thought the mechanic (me) F'd something up, but to my surprise all was good with the clutch and what I actually touched (unless anyone can speculate otherwise)....anyways like I said just want to share my epic failure with everyone...feel free to laugh at my expense. 
). Getting the torque tube lined up was a bitch, let alone having this happen. Sorry, brother. Hope you get it fixed soon!
