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What exactly do you think caused this? DId you have a torque tube bearing seize up, or too much pressure put on the tube. Was a there any bearing noise or pre-warning something was about to happen? Any info is much appreciated. Thanks!~
What exactly do you think caused this? DId you have a torque tube bearing seize up, or too much pressure put on the tube. Was a there any bearing noise or pre-warning something was about to happen? Any info is much appreciated. Thanks!~
I think you’re asking me Jimi....ummmm no warning at all....drove it on the street for about 3 weeks around 400 easy miles....went to the track thanksgiving weekend....drove great all day...last lap on my fourth 20 min session I came down the drag strip 4th gear went into 3rd before I turned went about 200 yards and my rpms suddenly went through the roof as if I had come out of gear, and that was all she wrote....took it back apart and found that mess!!!! I will say that I’m not the most experienced driver and I think a lot of prior abuse and the new clutch and the nt01’s just made it tap out
Last edited by captain trash; Mar 17, 2020 at 10:48 PM.
Excellent write-up! I previously changed a clutch in my 03 Z06. For a 2010 Zr1 - would you recommend removing the super charger? Or is lowering the cradle good enough to stay clear of the fire wall?
I did it on my base model in the fall. The stock intake still kinda sketched me out, even though I heard it would be fine. I think I'd pull the supercharger.
Last edited by kjcmusic17; Mar 19, 2020 at 12:12 AM.
Bumping again as I plan to undertake this soon with a 2012 ZR1. I am fortunate to have a lift. My question is about dropping the front cradle to ease access to the bell housing bolts. Anything needs to be checked on a ZR1 on the engine side before slightly lowering?
Wasn't sure of any complications with the blower, etc.
Bumping again as I plan to undertake this soon with a 2012 ZR1. I am fortunate to have a lift. My question is about dropping the front cradle to ease access to the bell housing bolts. Anything needs to be checked on a ZR1 on the engine side before slightly lowering?
Wasn't sure of any complications with the blower, etc.
i would definitely remove the blower. Good time to change the oil. 5.1 oz fill upside down.
Why do you need to remove the bellhousing? The videos I've seen show you can just pull the torque tube from the bellhousing and remove the clutch components through the bottom of it. Is the ZR1 different?
Form corvettecentral.com
If desired, remove the 13mm bolts from the bellhousing and pull the bellhousing. It is not necessary to do this.
I don't know when they changed, but my 2012 grandsport has a one piece bell housing.
I just removed mine on sunday as I'm in the middle of a clutch swap myself. Had to remove the upper shock mounts to get the engine crossmember/subframe thing to drop. Also had to loosen the engine mounts to get the engine to rock back and forth. And the bell housing was still a pita to get out. I was about a minute away from dropping the subframe off the bolts entirely just to get the bell housing out. I have no idea how it or any of the bolts are going back in lol.
I don't know when they changed, but my 2012 grandsport has a one piece bell housing.
I just removed mine on sunday as I'm in the middle of a clutch swap myself. Had to remove the upper shock mounts to get the engine crossmember/subframe thing to drop. Also had to loosen the engine mounts to get the engine to rock back and forth. And the bell housing was still a pita to get out. I was about a minute away from dropping the subframe off the bolts entirely just to get the bell housing out. I have no idea how it or any of the bolts are going back in lol.
My 2005 has a one piece bell housing. Removing the upper shock mounts and the upper A arms was the only way I could lower the subframe enough to get all the bell housing bolts out. To reinstall the bell housing I used a powered socket wrench, a 36 inch extension, and a U joint.
Why do you need to remove the bellhousing? The videos I've seen show you can just pull the torque tube from the bellhousing and remove the clutch components through the bottom of it. Is the ZR1 different?
Form corvettecentral.com
If desired, remove the 13mm bolts from the bellhousing and pull the bellhousing. It is not necessary to do this.
That's a C5 bell housing. C6's don't have the removable cover at the bottom, it's one solid piece all the way around, so you have to remove the bellhousing entirely to get to the clutch.
I don't see why you'd remove the blower or any of that. I might have loosened the cradle bolts and angled the engine back or something a little but I don't remember even doing that. Find the right size/shape sockets/extensions/flex and get up to the bolts and loosen them. That's it.
Awesome write up. I’m having the sinking clutch pedal after hard pulls issue. I’ve received a quote of $1200 labor, but I’d like to do this myself. On a real world scaled of 1-10, and 10 being the hardest, how difficult would you all rate this?
I plan to do a McLeod RXT clutch and the suggested throw out bearing with a speed bleeder. This will be going in a 2007 C6Z. This may be for another post, but what would it take to service the torque tube or anything else while the rear is out the car? Thanks in advance.
Awesome write up. I’m having the sinking clutch pedal after hard pulls issue. I’ve received a quote of $1200 labor, but I’d like to do this myself. On a real world scaled of 1-10, and 10 being the hardest, how difficult would you all rate this?
I plan to do a McLeod RXT clutch and the suggested throw out bearing with a speed bleeder. This will be going in a 2007 C6Z. This may be for another post, but what would it take to service the torque tube or anything else while the rear is out the car? Thanks in advance.
If u have basic tools extension, swivel jack stands that go up two 22m to 22inches. At least 2 floor jacks some 2x4s.U should be good to go. First time doing it, i would 6ish.
JUST take ur time. If u dont have headers separating hydraulic from M/C to TT will be easier. I had header . A lot of MFing. And blood.
Awesome write up. I’m having the sinking clutch pedal after hard pulls issue. I’ve received a quote of $1200 labor, but I’d like to do this myself. On a real world scaled of 1-10, and 10 being the hardest, how difficult would you all rate this?
I plan to do a McLeod RXT clutch and the suggested throw out bearing with a speed bleeder. This will be going in a 2007 C6Z. This may be for another post, but what would it take to service the torque tube or anything else while the rear is out the car? Thanks in advance.
I work as a tech and there is a lot harder things to do on cars. I also did that on a hoist and that's worth a few points too. doing it on the ground is for sure a little tougher. 1200 labor is some nice savings if you plan on doing it yourself. If the hardest thing you've done is brakes....it may be a challenge but if you've done a few things and got a good selection of hand tools, I'm sure you'll be fine.
for the torque tube...there's a few good write ups on here that I've seen.
Last edited by rpmextra; Sep 27, 2021 at 10:56 AM.
I’d call it a 6ish as well. I can have it apart in 2-3 hours now and maybe 4-5 to put it back together. That’s working on the ground.
Hardest part IMO is getting the bell housing off (not bad with the right flexible sockets, extensions, etc but very difficult without those) and getting the input shaft on the torque tube slid through the friction disc of the clutch. I found the key there is to get the angle right and when you’re tightening the pressure plate down, either use a metal alignment tool or if using a plastic one make sure the friction disc is as centered as possible by moving it around as needed to keep the friction disc centered. The plastic alignment tools will be loose feeling if you do this correctly, or at least mine was.
Other than that I found a beam attachment at harbor freight that makes the jack wide enough to easily control the rear cradle/transmission. Then I used a small roll around transmission jack to control the front of the torque tube once out.
Torque tube rebuild wise you need a very large pair of circlip pliers and will need a press to get the bearings off and back on. The bearings you can get aftermarket from wherever if you want.
I’d call it a 6ish as well. I can have it apart in 2-3 hours now and maybe 4-5 to put it back together. That’s working on the ground.
Hardest part IMO is getting the bell housing off (not bad with the right flexible sockets, extensions, etc but very difficult without those) and getting the input shaft on the torque tube slid through the friction disc of the clutch. I found the key there is to get the angle right and when you’re tightening the pressure plate down, either use a metal alignment tool or if using a plastic one make sure the friction disc is as centered as possible by moving it around as needed to keep the friction disc centered. The plastic alignment tools will be loose feeling if you do this correctly, or at least mine was.
Other than that I found a beam attachment at harbor freight that makes the jack wide enough to easily control the rear cradle/transmission. Then I used a small roll around transmission jack to control the front of the torque tube once out.
Torque tube rebuild wise you need a very large pair of circlip pliers and will need a press to get the bearings off and back on. The bearings you can get aftermarket from wherever if you want.
Right on. Glad you're still on here helping out lol. I barely come to the forum anymore. Haven't raced my car in 2 seasons.
I grabbed an old input shaft and made a metal alignment tool. Works great.
I don't know if I wrote it in the write up, that was done after my 1st c6 and maybe have done 15 of them since. But lower the to rear nuts on the front cradle and that will give you more room. I think you schpenxel mentioned this above too. Also when you put it back in, be careful not to pinch the wiring harness between the bellhousing and engine. It's easier done then you'd think.
I agree angles for the re installation is everything. Eyeball the gap in the lower side of the tube/housing and compare to the upper. Try to get the gap the same. Getting a 2nd set of hands to help push it back in isn't a must but it can help tremendously. When I have a hand, I hold up the torque tube free hand to line up and my friend pushes the assembly forward by the jack.
Awesome write up. I’m having the sinking clutch pedal after hard pulls issue. I’ve received a quote of $1200 labor, but I’d like to do this myself. On a real world scaled of 1-10, and 10 being the hardest, how difficult would you all rate this?
I plan to do a McLeod RXT clutch and the suggested throw out bearing with a speed bleeder. This will be going in a 2007 C6Z. This may be for another post, but what would it take to service the torque tube or anything else while the rear is out the car? Thanks in advance.
That bell housing bolt at 12 oclock is the most difficult thing about this whole job. That thing took me over an hour to loosen.
When you take you torque tube off check the couplings and replace the bearings. I just inspected everything and didn't replace the bearings. 2000 miles after my clutch install one of my TT bearing is going. I should have replaced them. I have to replace them this winter. Just buy the SKF set from Tick performance. Also get new seals and snap rings from GM parts. I have all the parts # for the bearings, seals and snap rings if anyone wants them. Aslo don't forget the rear seal and pilot bearing. I also bought a metal input alignment shaft from Tick. I read that alignment with the plastic one with dual discs can be tricky. Lastly, it seem to me easier to mount the TT on the engine and then put the tranny/diff on. It seemed a lot easier to align everything up and slide together.
Thanks all for the input. I come from the Mustang world where I’ve built my 347 to pulling engines and whatever else can be done. First and only thing I’ve done on my Z was the cam and intake installation. I did help my neighbor get his engine back in his C6. Without the engine mounts, upper intake, and headers, we got the engine lined up while on the hoist and got the splines lined up from the input shaft to the clutch. From there, we used a longer bolts to line up the torque tube to the bellhousing and pulled them together enough to get the stock bolts back in.
When we did the clutch on my 4th gen SS Camaro, we used a Keyser Manufacturing 100-7414 clutch alignment tool. My assumption when I bought it is that it would work for a C6 as well (1-1/8" diameter, 26 spline).
I'm not sure if it would be helpful for the C6 but I made bell housing alignment studs by cutting the heads off of some M10 x 1.5 x 100mm bolts and then making screwdriver slots with a hacksaw:
I found the hardest part on doing my clutch change on my C6 GS was getting the pilot bearing and the part of the input shaft that goes into the pilot bearing lined up. The head of the shaft is chamfered but there is very little margin for error. I tried to keep the engine and the torque tube at the same angle using an angle guage but it will either go in easy or fight you.
I found lining up the splines was pretty easy and the plastic clutch alignment tool that came with my Monster clutch worked perfectly.
The top bell housing bolt can be tricky but you can tilt the engine back enough to get at it with a few extensions and swivel sockets.
I’m still considering doing this myself. I came here tonight to read over the instructions again. I’m going to order my clutch next week. I’m considering the Minster LT1 clutch over the McLeod.
